Hi,
two questions.
1. I have a 1991 alfa romeo, and it's getting increasingly harder to put in second gear without that crunching noise. Alfa's generally have a tight gearbox(whatever that means) but 2nd gear is a little ridiculous.. Its worse changing down to second than changing up also. Some one told me it's got something to do with the syncro mesh, what does that mean? And should I be double clutching to get into second.. and if so, what is double clutching?
Also my flatmates have been having an argument over changing gears without using the clutch, i wikki'd it and it says its all about matching the revs or whatever. What I want to know is whether or not it is bad for your car to do, if you do it successfully I mean? Like I realise doing it with force and not properly is bad for it, but if you can do it, is it bad?
K, that turned into a million questions, as you can tell I'm fairly clueless when it comes to cars, so any help would be awsome.
:)
Thanks
Changing gears without a clutch, and double clutching?
Check the clutch plate, may be worn. You double clutch big rigs, not cars they can't handle it.
Changing gears without a clutch, and double clutching?
The synchromesh is toast and so is your piggy bank. sorry . these are nice cars but not cheap
you have a messed up synchro and its not going to get any better/the trans has to be opened up and new synchros installed//soon you wont be able to get it gear and hold it there and you may have severe gear damage as a result//// those alfas are slightly delicate and temperamental
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Is there something wrong with my clutch?
Hello, recently my clutch is 'jerking' when I change gear (can be any gear)
It never used to do this until about a week ago, my normal driving habits haven't changed, but the clutch is like a learner driver learning clutch control or something.
Car: 97 Ford Fiesta
Any one got any suggestions?
Is there something wrong with my clutch?
it will jerk if you let off the clutch too fast.
Is there something wrong with my clutch?
The cable may be partially seized.
If no cable,could be patially seized master or slave cylinder.
Could also be oil on the clutch plate,or the clutch needs changing.
bearings worn? plates contaminated with oil?
It never used to do this until about a week ago, my normal driving habits haven't changed, but the clutch is like a learner driver learning clutch control or something.
Car: 97 Ford Fiesta
Any one got any suggestions?
Is there something wrong with my clutch?
it will jerk if you let off the clutch too fast.
Is there something wrong with my clutch?
The cable may be partially seized.
If no cable,could be patially seized master or slave cylinder.
Could also be oil on the clutch plate,or the clutch needs changing.
bearings worn? plates contaminated with oil?
Dirty Clutch fluid?
My clutch fluid is very, very dirty, but works well. What are the benefits for changing the clutch fluid of a vehicle.
Dirty Clutch fluid?
The best reason is to prevent failures%26gt;
Dirty Clutch fluid?
the best reason for doing this ,it will make the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder last longer,that's a good enough reason right there for changing it,good luck with it.
Yes the dirty fluid has particials and water in it and that wears the seals out faster-- most vehicals use one of the types of brake fluid read the 2nd paragraph in the site below the hydralic clutch cylinder is the same as your master cylinder for your brakes as far as the operation of the system goes-- good luck
If your clutch fluid is very dirty, it's quite possibly just a matter of time before your clutch pedal sinks to the floor...I'd recommend having the system cycled with clean fluid a couple times, but you could just wait till the system goes and replace the items then. That might make more sense, considering the current condition.
Dirty Clutch fluid?
The best reason is to prevent failures%26gt;
Dirty Clutch fluid?
the best reason for doing this ,it will make the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder last longer,that's a good enough reason right there for changing it,good luck with it.
Yes the dirty fluid has particials and water in it and that wears the seals out faster-- most vehicals use one of the types of brake fluid read the 2nd paragraph in the site below the hydralic clutch cylinder is the same as your master cylinder for your brakes as far as the operation of the system goes-- good luck
If your clutch fluid is very dirty, it's quite possibly just a matter of time before your clutch pedal sinks to the floor...I'd recommend having the system cycled with clean fluid a couple times, but you could just wait till the system goes and replace the items then. That might make more sense, considering the current condition.
Change a clutch in a 1997 Suzuki RM80 dirt bike?
does anyone know any sites or diagrams anything that can help me learn how to change the clutch plates in my dirt bike 1997 Suzuki RM80
Change a clutch in a 1997 Suzuki RM80 dirt bike?
It is soooooooo easy...First drain your oil...Then pull the side cover off the right side of your motor..Take the bolts out of your clutch basket..Should be a 9mm socket..Pull the outer plate out and you will be able to see your plates..Pull all your plates out..might have to use 2 small screwdrivers to get them out..go easy and make sure not to bend anything..You might have to use your steel plates if you didn't buy new...
Start putting in your new plates...start with a fiber plate and then a steel then a fiber and then a steel..and on and on...As long as you started with a fiber and ended with a fiber your good as gold..Put your plate back on...there might be a mark that you have to line up on your plate and your clutch boss..Like a dot and a little arrow so the plate fits all the way on..Now start putting your springs and bolts back on just snug..Once they are all snug..start to tighten them just a little more then snug..tighten one and then go across from theta one and tighten another and then across from that one..cris-cross..Do not tighten them too tight..don't want to break any....ok...now the side cover and gasket...if you broke your gasket get a new one...don't want it to leak..side cover bolts..just past snug...don't break one off....Your goood to go...
Change a clutch in a 1997 Suzuki RM80 dirt bike?
bikebandit.com
Change a clutch in a 1997 Suzuki RM80 dirt bike?
It is soooooooo easy...First drain your oil...Then pull the side cover off the right side of your motor..Take the bolts out of your clutch basket..Should be a 9mm socket..Pull the outer plate out and you will be able to see your plates..Pull all your plates out..might have to use 2 small screwdrivers to get them out..go easy and make sure not to bend anything..You might have to use your steel plates if you didn't buy new...
Start putting in your new plates...start with a fiber plate and then a steel then a fiber and then a steel..and on and on...As long as you started with a fiber and ended with a fiber your good as gold..Put your plate back on...there might be a mark that you have to line up on your plate and your clutch boss..Like a dot and a little arrow so the plate fits all the way on..Now start putting your springs and bolts back on just snug..Once they are all snug..start to tighten them just a little more then snug..tighten one and then go across from theta one and tighten another and then across from that one..cris-cross..Do not tighten them too tight..don't want to break any....ok...now the side cover and gasket...if you broke your gasket get a new one...don't want it to leak..side cover bolts..just past snug...don't break one off....Your goood to go...
Change a clutch in a 1997 Suzuki RM80 dirt bike?
bikebandit.com
Fiat brava diesel clutch change?
any body ever had the clutch done and was it a
big/expensive job thank you
Fiat brava diesel clutch change?
most you should expect to pay is 拢300 all done, it's about 4 hours plus parts, decent kit costs around 拢80 plus vat
Average labour costs 拢40 per hour
4hours times 拢40 = 拢160
parts at 拢80
拢240 + vat
拢282
Fiat brava diesel clutch change?
It was a blow to my wallet. It really was a ********
拢500
clutches in spain average price (parts only 250 euros) then labourcat parameter
big/expensive job thank you
Fiat brava diesel clutch change?
most you should expect to pay is 拢300 all done, it's about 4 hours plus parts, decent kit costs around 拢80 plus vat
Average labour costs 拢40 per hour
4hours times 拢40 = 拢160
parts at 拢80
拢240 + vat
拢282
Fiat brava diesel clutch change?
It was a blow to my wallet. It really was a ********
拢500
clutches in spain average price (parts only 250 euros) then labour
Any driving simulation games online my sister can practice driving with?
My sister has just got her provisional licence and since my car is currently being fixed (and she can't afford lessons yet) I wondered if there was a game or something online that will help her understand the clutch, changing gears and how to drive, basically. I don't really want to have to download something so it would be good if it was a %26quot;game%26quot; you play online rather than download and play.
Any driving simulation games online my sister can practice driving with?
the best practice is to get out there and drive. no game can replace that.
Any driving simulation games online my sister can practice driving with?
TRY THIS WWW.JEEPGAMES.COM AND GO TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE AND CLICK AND THE game called ROAD READY STREET WISE 2.0
try here - http://www.go-red.co.uk/
Sorry, driving isn't something you can learn on line via games.
dont bother stick to a car the games are rubbish
Any driving simulation games online my sister can practice driving with?
the best practice is to get out there and drive. no game can replace that.
Any driving simulation games online my sister can practice driving with?
TRY THIS WWW.JEEPGAMES.COM AND GO TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE AND CLICK AND THE game called ROAD READY STREET WISE 2.0
Report Abuse
try here - http://www.go-red.co.uk/
Sorry, driving isn't something you can learn on line via games.
dont bother stick to a car the games are rubbish
Motorcycle gear change and clutch?
I am a new rider and I have couple of questions.
Say you're at a stop signal on first gear. When you move, do u hold in the clutch once, and shift to 3 or 4 or 5... gear? Or... do you hold the clutch, go to second gear, let go of the clutch, then throttle, then hold the clutch in again, go to third gear.... and keep doing that. What is the proper way, and what is the most common way? Does the same thing apply to downshifting?
Motorcycle gear change and clutch?
Disengage/reengage clutch PER gear shift.
Just like a car. Most bike gearboxes, being sequential, don't often change more than 1 gear at a time very well. They need the load to shift properly.
Especially for downshifts. If you drop too many cogs on a single clutch on a big 4T the engine compression will lock the back wheel (2Ts and slipper clutches excluded)
read some books, and have a hunt on net for gear change techniques.
On the downshifts, u want to be blipping the throttle while u have the clutch in, so that u are matching the rpm to the next gear.
For upshifts, to make it smooth, you Want to Lightly %26quot;preload%26quot; the gearlever with your toe while you have the gas on. Then try to roll off the gas and pull the clutch in simultaneously and lift your toe a little harder all at the same time. The gear should just smoothly snick in, so smooth u can barely feel it. Then clutch out and then smoothly onto the gas.
It's also feasible to do clutchless upshifts just by preloading the gearlever and gettng partially off the gas. But save those for when u can do clutched changes properly and u are on the track (works best from full throttle)
Motorcycle gear change and clutch?
Might pay to do a Motorcycle Safety Foundation course. If you don't know this basic stuff, there's probably a heap of other stuff you don't know either.
Say you're at a stop signal on first gear. When you move, do u hold in the clutch once, and shift to 3 or 4 or 5... gear? Or... do you hold the clutch, go to second gear, let go of the clutch, then throttle, then hold the clutch in again, go to third gear.... and keep doing that. What is the proper way, and what is the most common way? Does the same thing apply to downshifting?
Motorcycle gear change and clutch?
Disengage/reengage clutch PER gear shift.
Just like a car. Most bike gearboxes, being sequential, don't often change more than 1 gear at a time very well. They need the load to shift properly.
Especially for downshifts. If you drop too many cogs on a single clutch on a big 4T the engine compression will lock the back wheel (2Ts and slipper clutches excluded)
read some books, and have a hunt on net for gear change techniques.
On the downshifts, u want to be blipping the throttle while u have the clutch in, so that u are matching the rpm to the next gear.
For upshifts, to make it smooth, you Want to Lightly %26quot;preload%26quot; the gearlever with your toe while you have the gas on. Then try to roll off the gas and pull the clutch in simultaneously and lift your toe a little harder all at the same time. The gear should just smoothly snick in, so smooth u can barely feel it. Then clutch out and then smoothly onto the gas.
It's also feasible to do clutchless upshifts just by preloading the gearlever and gettng partially off the gas. But save those for when u can do clutched changes properly and u are on the track (works best from full throttle)
Motorcycle gear change and clutch?
Might pay to do a Motorcycle Safety Foundation course. If you don't know this basic stuff, there's probably a heap of other stuff you don't know either.
How do i know when to change the clutch in my car?
sometimes it kicks out of a gear, and sometimes i go to shift and it makes a nasty gringing noise when the cluch is pushed and trying to shift into gear
How do i know when to change the clutch in my car?
That sounds less like a clutch problem and more like a transmission issue (bent forks or such inside). Clutches just slip when they need replacing due to wear or spring weakening.
How do i know when to change the clutch in my car?
If you don't know you better take it to a technician. Those symptoms aren't nessesarily caused by a bad clutch.
It looks like you need a new clutch and throw out bearing. it make the grinding noise because of the clutch plate being wore out and you are not able to push it (the clutch) far enough. good luck
How do i know when to change the clutch in my car?
That sounds less like a clutch problem and more like a transmission issue (bent forks or such inside). Clutches just slip when they need replacing due to wear or spring weakening.
How do i know when to change the clutch in my car?
If you don't know you better take it to a technician. Those symptoms aren't nessesarily caused by a bad clutch.
It looks like you need a new clutch and throw out bearing. it make the grinding noise because of the clutch plate being wore out and you are not able to push it (the clutch) far enough. good luck
2001 Nissan Xterra clutch change?
Just changed the clutch in my Nissan Xterra and it will not start. Have tried all combinations of connections or the three connectors located at the transmisson. It is a manual tranny and I'm going out of my mind! Anyone, have any ideas?
2001 Nissan Xterra clutch change?
Inside the truck look at the clutch pedal and the switch it hits when depressed. There is a plastic grommet that pushes the switch that may be broken to pieces on the floor. Grommet is about $5 dollars. Make sure your in neutral depress that clutch interlock switch with one finger and reach around and turn the key Neutral please or you will be chasing your truck. Other wise you may have dammaged the main fuse that is bolted in 120 or 140 amp big fuse in the fuse link box near the battery. Did you also hook up the ground wire to the starter bolt or forget the gray solonoid wire? jp.hudson@sbcglobal.net
2001 Nissan Xterra clutch change?
Inside the truck look at the clutch pedal and the switch it hits when depressed. There is a plastic grommet that pushes the switch that may be broken to pieces on the floor. Grommet is about $5 dollars. Make sure your in neutral depress that clutch interlock switch with one finger and reach around and turn the key Neutral please or you will be chasing your truck. Other wise you may have dammaged the main fuse that is bolted in 120 or 140 amp big fuse in the fuse link box near the battery. Did you also hook up the ground wire to the starter bolt or forget the gray solonoid wire? jp.hudson@sbcglobal.net
How easy or hard is it to change a clutch in a fiat punto 55 and about how much is the part.?
It all depends on how much you know about cars.If you know
nothing about how they work then i would suggest taking it
to a local garage for an estimate.No point in trying to do it
yourself and making a dogs breakfast of the job,you might do more damage without knowing and it will cost you more money in the long run.
How easy or hard is it to change a clutch in a fiat punto 55 and about how much is the part.?
Trust me mate, i'm 15 and i know that it has a bugger to do, you need to take the gearbox case off, and that is really really heavy, u also need to take of the flywheel which the clutch is attached to, if you put the clutch in the wrong way you will have 5 reverse gears and one forward gear. Mate get a garage to do it, it is a nightmare to do.
How easy or hard is it to change a clutch in a fiat punto 55 and about how much is the part.?
For a profesionnal it's an easy car for an smsnteur is a tough part because you need experience to do that and tools. Also you need special tools so you will put i center the cluch into the flyweel. The part costs about 80-100鈧?and includes the cluch set and bearing.higher mileage how to straighten hair with a flat iron
nothing about how they work then i would suggest taking it
to a local garage for an estimate.No point in trying to do it
yourself and making a dogs breakfast of the job,you might do more damage without knowing and it will cost you more money in the long run.
How easy or hard is it to change a clutch in a fiat punto 55 and about how much is the part.?
Trust me mate, i'm 15 and i know that it has a bugger to do, you need to take the gearbox case off, and that is really really heavy, u also need to take of the flywheel which the clutch is attached to, if you put the clutch in the wrong way you will have 5 reverse gears and one forward gear. Mate get a garage to do it, it is a nightmare to do.
How easy or hard is it to change a clutch in a fiat punto 55 and about how much is the part.?
For a profesionnal it's an easy car for an smsnteur is a tough part because you need experience to do that and tools. Also you need special tools so you will put i center the cluch into the flyweel. The part costs about 80-100鈧?and includes the cluch set and bearing.
Changing Water pump on a 97 Dodge Dakota w/v-8. How do I get the fan and clutch seperated from the pump?
I've taken the pump off. The three hoses are removed. I have the impeller, the front of the pump, the drive pulley, a large bronze nut, the fan and the clutch. Does the replacement pump come with a fan and clutch on it? How do I seperate the two?
Changing Water pump on a 97 Dodge Dakota w/v-8. How do I get the fan and clutch seperated from the pump?
No you must take the fan clutch and fan off, that's not easy sometimes, usually the fan and clutch are pulled off using a pulling tool before you remove the pump, take it to a machine shop or Auto zone may help pull it. good luck
Changing Water pump on a 97 Dodge Dakota w/v-8. How do I get the fan and clutch seperated from the pump?
the fan screwes onto the water pump get a wrench that fits and screw it off(left hand thread)also you will probly need to hit the wrench to break it loose.
The fan clutch (and the fan bolted to it) threads onto the water pump. You can rent a fan clutch service tool at any parts store that rents or loans automotive service tools.
ITS A TWO PART WRENCH SYSTEM USED TO REMOVE IT AND IT COUNTA CLOCK WISE BORROW IT FROM AUTO ZONE IT WILL BE A DEPOSIT FOR IT BECAUSE YOU DON'T WANT TO BUY IT BECAUSE YOU WON'T USE IT FOR THE LIFE OF THAT CAR GOOD LUCK....
the pump is sold by its self.
should be 4 bolts on the fan to remove
Changing Water pump on a 97 Dodge Dakota w/v-8. How do I get the fan and clutch seperated from the pump?
No you must take the fan clutch and fan off, that's not easy sometimes, usually the fan and clutch are pulled off using a pulling tool before you remove the pump, take it to a machine shop or Auto zone may help pull it. good luck
Changing Water pump on a 97 Dodge Dakota w/v-8. How do I get the fan and clutch seperated from the pump?
the fan screwes onto the water pump get a wrench that fits and screw it off(left hand thread)also you will probly need to hit the wrench to break it loose.
The fan clutch (and the fan bolted to it) threads onto the water pump. You can rent a fan clutch service tool at any parts store that rents or loans automotive service tools.
ITS A TWO PART WRENCH SYSTEM USED TO REMOVE IT AND IT COUNTA CLOCK WISE BORROW IT FROM AUTO ZONE IT WILL BE A DEPOSIT FOR IT BECAUSE YOU DON'T WANT TO BUY IT BECAUSE YOU WON'T USE IT FOR THE LIFE OF THAT CAR GOOD LUCK....
the pump is sold by its self.
should be 4 bolts on the fan to remove
Honda si 04 clutch diagnostics?
My car started to have problems with 3rd gear. when i take off fast and i change gears fast. 3rd gear grinds, but when i take off slow, i does not grind. I keep looking for the oil trans but i can not find it. Can any one give me a diagnostic. everything started today this afternoon. car is 46,000m. Do i need i disk clutch change? or what diagnostic would anybody one give me? I will appreciate all you help? thank you.
Honda si 04 clutch diagnostics?
if it is only grinding in one gear there is an internal problem with the transmission. from your description it sounds like the synchronizers for third gear are damaged causing them to not readily align and cause the %26quot;gear clash%26quot; on hard shifts. when you shift on slower speeds you give the synchros more time to align and there is no noise.
there is also the possiblity that the shift fork that moves the synchro for thrid is damaged rather than the synchros or that both the shift fork and the synchro sleeve or synchros are damaged.
In any case, the trans will have to come out to repair this condition. It is not a clutch problem--with a clutch wear issue you would have the gear clash in all gears on upshifts and downshifts
hope that helps
Honda si 04 clutch diagnostics?
either the clutch isn't fulley engaged or you got bad 3rd gear synchros
Honda si 04 clutch diagnostics?
if it is only grinding in one gear there is an internal problem with the transmission. from your description it sounds like the synchronizers for third gear are damaged causing them to not readily align and cause the %26quot;gear clash%26quot; on hard shifts. when you shift on slower speeds you give the synchros more time to align and there is no noise.
there is also the possiblity that the shift fork that moves the synchro for thrid is damaged rather than the synchros or that both the shift fork and the synchro sleeve or synchros are damaged.
In any case, the trans will have to come out to repair this condition. It is not a clutch problem--with a clutch wear issue you would have the gear clash in all gears on upshifts and downshifts
hope that helps
Honda si 04 clutch diagnostics?
either the clutch isn't fulley engaged or you got bad 3rd gear synchros
My 98 dodge dakota overheats easily wen the temp outside gets hotter.ive changed the fan clutch n water pump?
when the temp outside gets hotter even in the low seventys my truck starts getting hot...it gets hotter n hotter as the temp goes up. I have changed the water pump and fan clutch..the radiator fluid flushed recently with the water pump change. it doesn't act like its the thermostat goin up n down.
My 98 dodge dakota overheats easily wen the temp outside gets hotter.ive changed the fan clutch n water pump?
ALONG WITH THE OTHER ANSWERS HAVE YOU CHECKED THE BELT TENSION-ER IF IT IS NOT FREE MOVING AND APPLYING THE RIGHT PRESSURE THE BELT COULD BE SLIPPING AS IT WARMS UP . THE HOTTER IT GETS OUTSIDE THE MORE THE SERPENTINE BELT CAN EXPAND
My 98 dodge dakota overheats easily wen the temp outside gets hotter.ive changed the fan clutch n water pump?
You need to check the quality of your coolant. A coolant
gauge would tell you if your coolant is good. Your thermostate
could be stuck closed.
I would check the coolant temperature sending unit and the thermostat even though you think it works they can be tricky and they are really cheap about ($15).
You have done the high dollars items. Have you check the radator cap for the proper presure. This cap control the temper of the water by lowing the bolling point of the water, Your T Stat could be only open part way. This will cause the engine to get hot. Those items is what I would look at.
My 98 dodge dakota overheats easily wen the temp outside gets hotter.ive changed the fan clutch n water pump?
ALONG WITH THE OTHER ANSWERS HAVE YOU CHECKED THE BELT TENSION-ER IF IT IS NOT FREE MOVING AND APPLYING THE RIGHT PRESSURE THE BELT COULD BE SLIPPING AS IT WARMS UP . THE HOTTER IT GETS OUTSIDE THE MORE THE SERPENTINE BELT CAN EXPAND
My 98 dodge dakota overheats easily wen the temp outside gets hotter.ive changed the fan clutch n water pump?
You need to check the quality of your coolant. A coolant
gauge would tell you if your coolant is good. Your thermostate
could be stuck closed.
I would check the coolant temperature sending unit and the thermostat even though you think it works they can be tricky and they are really cheap about ($15).
You have done the high dollars items. Have you check the radator cap for the proper presure. This cap control the temper of the water by lowing the bolling point of the water, Your T Stat could be only open part way. This will cause the engine to get hot. Those items is what I would look at.
Stamford motor sports?? any reviews? i am going to get my clutch changed there?
i have a honda cbr 2002 f4i and i need clutch work done there talking about keeping the bike for 5 days when there only charging for a two hour job is that about correct? and there charging me 480 for everything
Stamford motor sports?? any reviews? i am going to get my clutch changed there?
I also posted this ??? on my other account
Stamford motor sports?? any reviews? i am going to get my clutch changed there?
I also posted this ??? on my other account
1984 honda accord clutch system?
how to ajust the clutch, and how to change the clutch
1984 honda accord clutch system?
First you jack the car up and get under it and tighten the adjustment rod.
To replace it just losen the bolts and make surte it is in nutrual and slide it out
I hope this will help you
1984 honda accord clutch system?
google it
Young Boy sounds like he has the right answer. You could get more detail at honda-tech.com
honda-tech.comhandling exceptions dynamic editing
1984 honda accord clutch system?
First you jack the car up and get under it and tighten the adjustment rod.
To replace it just losen the bolts and make surte it is in nutrual and slide it out
I hope this will help you
1984 honda accord clutch system?
google it
Young Boy sounds like he has the right answer. You could get more detail at honda-tech.com
honda-tech.com
How do i change the clutch cable on my rs125?
or can any1 tell me were the engine adjuster 4 the clutch cable is
How do i change the clutch cable on my rs125?
I got a really good idea for you .. buy the manuel for the bike, tells you all the stuff you need to know! Or take it to a shop.
How do i change the clutch cable on my rs125?
I got a really good idea for you .. buy the manuel for the bike, tells you all the stuff you need to know! Or take it to a shop.
When changing gears on a motorcycle how far do you squeeze the clutch?
Is it neccesary to squeeze down all the way or just in the friction zone.
When changing gears on a motorcycle how far do you squeeze the clutch?
bikes are fitted with a sequential constant mesh gearbox,
you need the clutch to take off from a stand still..
once the bike is moving you can change gear without damaging the gearbox.
to do this.. accelerate in first gear.. apply a small amount of pressure to the gear lever.. roll off the accelerator for a split second %26amp; the bike will change gear.. allowing you to reapply the accelerator..
I use the clutch most of the time.. but only enough to change gear.. you dont have to pull it in all the way..
going down the gears is a bit trickier as you have to accelerate for the bike to change down without the clutch..
blipping the throtle as you change down helps.. as this increases the engine revs to match the speed of the bike..
slipper clutches are fitted to large performance machines..
they allow you to change from say sixth gear to first gear by pulling in the clutch.. %26amp; when you release the clutch the back end is stopped from locking up by the slip effect
hope this helps... but if you dont beleive me .. just go to the local bike shop(preferably one that sponsers racers) %26amp; chat to the mechanic.. most are willing to chat %26amp; give information to new riders...
When changing gears on a motorcycle how far do you squeeze the clutch?
Actually it depends on your momentum. It's fairly common for sport bike riders to shift without the clutch while at speed. It's not typically recommended as this practice has the tendency to cause additional wear on the transmission.
I'd say from stop you'll want to engage the clutch as far as you can. While moving it becomes less important other than how much speed you loose in the process (if that matters at all)
If you trying to speed shift just squeeze it in to where it will just come out of the friction zone. you can adjust your clutch so this happen sooner on the pull of the clutch or at the top of the pull. this can be hard on the bike. for normal riding just pull it all the way in cuts down on ware.
Squeeze just enough as you feel the pressure of pulling to disengage the clutch and then shift gears.
tip: Do it altogether in a quick smooth motion. Its not necessary to squezze tight.
meke sure to have some play on the clutch if not u burn the clutch then ur suppose to go all the way down but new bikes have slippery clutch which mean only nedd to use the cluch to take off after 4 or 5 k rpm not need of clutch
Just enough to break the torque Not really all the way
When changing gears on a motorcycle how far do you squeeze the clutch?
bikes are fitted with a sequential constant mesh gearbox,
you need the clutch to take off from a stand still..
once the bike is moving you can change gear without damaging the gearbox.
to do this.. accelerate in first gear.. apply a small amount of pressure to the gear lever.. roll off the accelerator for a split second %26amp; the bike will change gear.. allowing you to reapply the accelerator..
I use the clutch most of the time.. but only enough to change gear.. you dont have to pull it in all the way..
going down the gears is a bit trickier as you have to accelerate for the bike to change down without the clutch..
blipping the throtle as you change down helps.. as this increases the engine revs to match the speed of the bike..
slipper clutches are fitted to large performance machines..
they allow you to change from say sixth gear to first gear by pulling in the clutch.. %26amp; when you release the clutch the back end is stopped from locking up by the slip effect
hope this helps... but if you dont beleive me .. just go to the local bike shop(preferably one that sponsers racers) %26amp; chat to the mechanic.. most are willing to chat %26amp; give information to new riders...
When changing gears on a motorcycle how far do you squeeze the clutch?
Actually it depends on your momentum. It's fairly common for sport bike riders to shift without the clutch while at speed. It's not typically recommended as this practice has the tendency to cause additional wear on the transmission.
I'd say from stop you'll want to engage the clutch as far as you can. While moving it becomes less important other than how much speed you loose in the process (if that matters at all)
If you trying to speed shift just squeeze it in to where it will just come out of the friction zone. you can adjust your clutch so this happen sooner on the pull of the clutch or at the top of the pull. this can be hard on the bike. for normal riding just pull it all the way in cuts down on ware.
Squeeze just enough as you feel the pressure of pulling to disengage the clutch and then shift gears.
tip: Do it altogether in a quick smooth motion. Its not necessary to squezze tight.
meke sure to have some play on the clutch if not u burn the clutch then ur suppose to go all the way down but new bikes have slippery clutch which mean only nedd to use the cluch to take off after 4 or 5 k rpm not need of clutch
Just enough to break the torque Not really all the way
Got the case off but cant the clutch?
I have a 1983 xr200 and we are trying to change the clutch we got the case off and there is a peice beside the clutch to the right we cant get it off plz someone help
Got the case off but cant the clutch?
That would be the oil pump %26amp; oil filter.
http://www.bikebandit.com/parts/
Go to - your bike - Oil Pump
Remove cover # 2
Turn gear # 6 until the 2 large holes give you access to the screws behind the gear - remove the screws and the oil pump.
The oil filter works by centrifugal force.
Any crud in the oil, is flung to the outside of cover # 11
Remove the cover and clean inside of it.
Got the case off but cant the clutch?
That would be the oil pump %26amp; oil filter.
http://www.bikebandit.com/parts/
Go to - your bike - Oil Pump
Remove cover # 2
Turn gear # 6 until the 2 large holes give you access to the screws behind the gear - remove the screws and the oil pump.
The oil filter works by centrifugal force.
Any crud in the oil, is flung to the outside of cover # 11
Remove the cover and clean inside of it.
Vectra 1.8 GLS , cuts out periodically when you dip the clutch, even when changing gear.?
This problem doesn't always happen. Sometimes the engine is so quiet you cant hear it. sometimes it is racing. When it is in a %26quot;mood%26quot; it will cut out regardless. ie, when stationary and the gears are in neutral. changing down gears from third to second, changing from first to reverse, making it very hard to park. It does it whether its first thing in the morning or even at the end of a long drive. Other times it is very smooth and quiet and to be honest a lovely drive. We cannot put a proper routine to it or work it out. I am suspicious of maybe a fuel blockage, or muck in the carb. Any suggestion will be helpful. We took it to a vauxhall dealer and he recommended changing the rocker cover and breather pipes. So we did do, and we changed the spark plugs too, but it still does it. Please help!
Vectra 1.8 GLS , cuts out periodically when you dip the clutch, even when changing gear.?
Hey there,
You are not alone.
Have a search on teh web for %26quot;Vectra stall throttle%26quot; and you will be amazed. Also have a look at the previous questions below.
Good luck !
This is probably the %26quot;EGR%26quot; valve .
Doe the car Idle erratically most on a warm start but is fine on a cold start ?
http://www.parkers.co.uk/advice/forum/to鈥?/a>
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Vauxhall_vectr鈥?/a>
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/i鈥?/a>
http://www.cavweb-forums.co.uk/showthrea鈥?/a>
Vectra 1.8 GLS , cuts out periodically when you dip the clutch, even when changing gear.?
An unusual fault but surely this car has fuel injection.The remedy you have had recomended is absurb.Because the engine cuts out when depressing the clutch pedal suggest that as the pedal goes down it has to be touching a wire or a cut out valve.Your comment on when the engine is racing suggests that what i have said is a possibility and wouldnt think such a big deal.
have a look under the carb it sits on a rubber housing this could have a split in it and this could cut the engine hope this helps good luck
Your injection chanber needs cleaning.
Hi,
I had a Vectra. On injection cars the Idle speed (Throttle) control valve (Sometimes called cold-start valve) can gets gummed up if it has bad mixture or bad breathers or just too many insects get in it, lol. That causes exactly what you are talking about - when the clutch is depressed, the engine has to use a bit of power to help it and can cut out if the idle valve is screwed. Can cut out anytime it feels like it tho.
You can clean the idle valve (If you can find it) by spraying aerosol can of carb cleaner into it. Might need to do it once in a while to keep it clean.
Are you SURE it has a carb? Nearly all are injection. Still, maybe a loose/leaking vacuum pipe if it IS a carb - explains why dealer said breathers.
In any case, a minor engine service (Like plugs, leads) helps. Am surprised a Vauxhall dealer was so rubbish - take it to an independant. Try to find a respectable looking independant who actually RACES cars - they know what they are doing engine wise. Go to your local Autograss track and ask them - you'll have a GREAT day out and some real advice :)
(Says me, lol)
My only other advice is don't own a Vectra. Older Vaux's are great but Vectra is a bit sad, sorry :(
Hi
There was a breather modification recommended for earlier Vectras designed to combat the very problem you are experiencing.
The modification consists of a filter being fitted between the rocker cover and the breather in the form of a small black box or similar, which stops oil from contaminating the idle control valve/throttle body.
The modification can also mean fitting a modified idle control valve and adjusting the base idle setting slightly.
Ask your Vauxhall dealer to check for this mod and if required, carry it out.
Cheers
Geordie
Vectra 1.8 GLS , cuts out periodically when you dip the clutch, even when changing gear.?
Hey there,
You are not alone.
Have a search on teh web for %26quot;Vectra stall throttle%26quot; and you will be amazed. Also have a look at the previous questions below.
Good luck !
This is probably the %26quot;EGR%26quot; valve .
Doe the car Idle erratically most on a warm start but is fine on a cold start ?
http://www.parkers.co.uk/advice/forum/to鈥?/a>
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Vauxhall_vectr鈥?/a>
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/i鈥?/a>
http://www.cavweb-forums.co.uk/showthrea鈥?/a>
Vectra 1.8 GLS , cuts out periodically when you dip the clutch, even when changing gear.?
An unusual fault but surely this car has fuel injection.The remedy you have had recomended is absurb.Because the engine cuts out when depressing the clutch pedal suggest that as the pedal goes down it has to be touching a wire or a cut out valve.Your comment on when the engine is racing suggests that what i have said is a possibility and wouldnt think such a big deal.
have a look under the carb it sits on a rubber housing this could have a split in it and this could cut the engine hope this helps good luck
Your injection chanber needs cleaning.
Hi,
I had a Vectra. On injection cars the Idle speed (Throttle) control valve (Sometimes called cold-start valve) can gets gummed up if it has bad mixture or bad breathers or just too many insects get in it, lol. That causes exactly what you are talking about - when the clutch is depressed, the engine has to use a bit of power to help it and can cut out if the idle valve is screwed. Can cut out anytime it feels like it tho.
You can clean the idle valve (If you can find it) by spraying aerosol can of carb cleaner into it. Might need to do it once in a while to keep it clean.
Are you SURE it has a carb? Nearly all are injection. Still, maybe a loose/leaking vacuum pipe if it IS a carb - explains why dealer said breathers.
In any case, a minor engine service (Like plugs, leads) helps. Am surprised a Vauxhall dealer was so rubbish - take it to an independant. Try to find a respectable looking independant who actually RACES cars - they know what they are doing engine wise. Go to your local Autograss track and ask them - you'll have a GREAT day out and some real advice :)
(Says me, lol)
My only other advice is don't own a Vectra. Older Vaux's are great but Vectra is a bit sad, sorry :(
Hi
There was a breather modification recommended for earlier Vectras designed to combat the very problem you are experiencing.
The modification consists of a filter being fitted between the rocker cover and the breather in the form of a small black box or similar, which stops oil from contaminating the idle control valve/throttle body.
The modification can also mean fitting a modified idle control valve and adjusting the base idle setting slightly.
Ask your Vauxhall dealer to check for this mod and if required, carry it out.
Cheers
Geordie
Is it true that gears can be shifting without using the clutch on a motorbike, and any negative effects?
Is it true that gears can be shifting without using the clutch on a motorbike, and any negative effects? This applies to vehicles using sequential transmissions. As usual, changing gears is done when you let go of the throttle first, pull the clutch, change gears, and then throttle up again. Some people, who claim you can change without the clutch, simply let go of the thottle and change the gear, and throttle up again. ALthough i never do this, i always use the clutch, I always throttle down and engage the clutch simultaneously, and THEN change the gears.
NOTE: The sequential manual transmission (or sequential manual gearbox) is a type of manual transmission used on motorcycles and high-performance cars for auto racing, where gears are selected in order, and direct access to specific gears is not possible.
With traditional manual transmissions, the driver can move from any gear, to any gear, by moving the shifter to the appropriate position. This type of transmission is often referred to as a H-pattern because of the path that the shift lever takes as it selects the various gears. A clutch must be disengaged before the new gear is selected, to disengage the running engine from the transmission, thus stopping all torque transfer. In auto racing, this process is slow and prone to human error; hence the development of the sequential transmission. A true sequential transmission will very often use dog clutch engagement rather than the more usual syncromesh as fitted to a normal H-pattern road car gearbox. Engagement using dogs only requires a very brief interruption of engine torque to complete a shift into any adjacent gear. This allows shifting between gears without the use of the clutch. The clutch would normally be used only for standing starts.
Is it true that gears can be shifting without using the clutch on a motorbike, and any negative effects?
You can do this on most bikes if you match the engine speed to the new gear to be engaged. It will produce accelerater gearbox wear particularly to the undercut selector dogs and as you will not be racing on the road there is nothing to be gained from it so no point doing it.
Is it true that gears can be shifting without using the clutch on a motorbike, and any negative effects?
Definitely possible, both up and down (with practice).
The reason it can be done on a m/c more easily is that bikes have a reduction gear between the engine and transmission (called the %26quot;primary drive), which reduces the gearbox rotation by up to a factor of 3. Since the 'box is only rotating about 1/3 as fast as the engine, and is a constant-mesh design with (as you say) dog clutches, clutchless changes can be easily effected BUT......... it's better if you nip the clutch just a little. You don't have to fully disengage it; just enough for a bit of slippage. In spite of what most people will probably tell you, after a while this partial disengagement thing becomes second nature, and you'll find yourself making changes as smoothly as an auto box.
Certainly it is possible, I do it a lot.
No bad effects as long as you use the throttle properly to synchronize the gears and engine speed.
It will make you a better rider. I shift without using the clutch in all my vehicles, motorcycles, truck, and car, no damage at all, ever.
I don't do it just 'cuz I want my bike to last, metal frags will ruin your trans. But if you don't care I don't care, and those rice-burners get bought and sold all the time after they've been beat to death. I ride a classic that I plan to keep 'till I die. (It's a '48 that's still going strong.)
i have a nice old classic bike with a shaft drive.
the clutch works so i use it.
i dont recommend not using it as i dont like a heap of metal dust accumulating in the transmission with the obvious consequence things are just going to get from bad to worse.
i would only grudgingly approve if you had fallen of and had to get home due to location or a snapped clutch cable and cannot be bothered to change the cable from the front brake over (mine fits)
to sum it up
if the clutch works, use it ,anyone is mad not to.
bikes are not like trucks where this not using the clutch is common.pc or mac textbox
NOTE: The sequential manual transmission (or sequential manual gearbox) is a type of manual transmission used on motorcycles and high-performance cars for auto racing, where gears are selected in order, and direct access to specific gears is not possible.
With traditional manual transmissions, the driver can move from any gear, to any gear, by moving the shifter to the appropriate position. This type of transmission is often referred to as a H-pattern because of the path that the shift lever takes as it selects the various gears. A clutch must be disengaged before the new gear is selected, to disengage the running engine from the transmission, thus stopping all torque transfer. In auto racing, this process is slow and prone to human error; hence the development of the sequential transmission. A true sequential transmission will very often use dog clutch engagement rather than the more usual syncromesh as fitted to a normal H-pattern road car gearbox. Engagement using dogs only requires a very brief interruption of engine torque to complete a shift into any adjacent gear. This allows shifting between gears without the use of the clutch. The clutch would normally be used only for standing starts.
Is it true that gears can be shifting without using the clutch on a motorbike, and any negative effects?
You can do this on most bikes if you match the engine speed to the new gear to be engaged. It will produce accelerater gearbox wear particularly to the undercut selector dogs and as you will not be racing on the road there is nothing to be gained from it so no point doing it.
Is it true that gears can be shifting without using the clutch on a motorbike, and any negative effects?
Definitely possible, both up and down (with practice).
The reason it can be done on a m/c more easily is that bikes have a reduction gear between the engine and transmission (called the %26quot;primary drive), which reduces the gearbox rotation by up to a factor of 3. Since the 'box is only rotating about 1/3 as fast as the engine, and is a constant-mesh design with (as you say) dog clutches, clutchless changes can be easily effected BUT......... it's better if you nip the clutch just a little. You don't have to fully disengage it; just enough for a bit of slippage. In spite of what most people will probably tell you, after a while this partial disengagement thing becomes second nature, and you'll find yourself making changes as smoothly as an auto box.
Certainly it is possible, I do it a lot.
No bad effects as long as you use the throttle properly to synchronize the gears and engine speed.
It will make you a better rider. I shift without using the clutch in all my vehicles, motorcycles, truck, and car, no damage at all, ever.
I don't do it just 'cuz I want my bike to last, metal frags will ruin your trans. But if you don't care I don't care, and those rice-burners get bought and sold all the time after they've been beat to death. I ride a classic that I plan to keep 'till I die. (It's a '48 that's still going strong.)
i have a nice old classic bike with a shaft drive.
the clutch works so i use it.
i dont recommend not using it as i dont like a heap of metal dust accumulating in the transmission with the obvious consequence things are just going to get from bad to worse.
i would only grudgingly approve if you had fallen of and had to get home due to location or a snapped clutch cable and cannot be bothered to change the cable from the front brake over (mine fits)
to sum it up
if the clutch works, use it ,anyone is mad not to.
bikes are not like trucks where this not using the clutch is common.
Replace clutch pads on nissan pulsar n15 1998?
i have a nissian pulsar n15 1998 cable clutch and i was wondering how easy it is to replace the clutch plates ovously i need a new presure plate as well.
What im asking is will i need to remove the engine to change the clutch plates or is it defferent with this model of car ! can anyone detail what has to be done for a nissian pulsar n15 1998 clutch change.
the resaon why the clutch needs changing is cause the gears are slipping cant get to 80 km with out it slipping slips outta first and 2nd really bad as well
any info would be help full any links or anything will be help full THANK YOU
Replace clutch pads on nissan pulsar n15 1998?
First off, there are no clutch plates. Only a clutch plate. Singular. It's a Pulsar and doesn't have multiple clutch plates.
Second, to replace the clutch assembly (pressure plate, disk, pilot bearing), you only need to remove the transmission from the engine. If your mate is a mechanic, he should know how to do this and can show you what he does.
Your best option is to buy a clutch kit for your car. It will come with everything you need, i.e. pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bearing and alignment tool.
Should be 8-10 bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel, and everything else is pretty easy to do.
But, as mentioned earlier, if your trans is slipping out of gear, it could be you have a bad transmission. So, if after you replace your clutch assembly, it still keeps happening, get a different transmission.
Replace clutch pads on nissan pulsar n15 1998?
Just need to remove the gearbox only.
You buy a clutch kit, which comes with a clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing.
It's an easy job for a guy who knows cars (mechanic), but too hard for an amateur.
If the box is jumping out of gear that's prob the box, not the clutch. $$$$, Speed Racer!!
What im asking is will i need to remove the engine to change the clutch plates or is it defferent with this model of car ! can anyone detail what has to be done for a nissian pulsar n15 1998 clutch change.
the resaon why the clutch needs changing is cause the gears are slipping cant get to 80 km with out it slipping slips outta first and 2nd really bad as well
any info would be help full any links or anything will be help full THANK YOU
Replace clutch pads on nissan pulsar n15 1998?
First off, there are no clutch plates. Only a clutch plate. Singular. It's a Pulsar and doesn't have multiple clutch plates.
Second, to replace the clutch assembly (pressure plate, disk, pilot bearing), you only need to remove the transmission from the engine. If your mate is a mechanic, he should know how to do this and can show you what he does.
Your best option is to buy a clutch kit for your car. It will come with everything you need, i.e. pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bearing and alignment tool.
Should be 8-10 bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel, and everything else is pretty easy to do.
But, as mentioned earlier, if your trans is slipping out of gear, it could be you have a bad transmission. So, if after you replace your clutch assembly, it still keeps happening, get a different transmission.
Replace clutch pads on nissan pulsar n15 1998?
Just need to remove the gearbox only.
You buy a clutch kit, which comes with a clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing.
It's an easy job for a guy who knows cars (mechanic), but too hard for an amateur.
If the box is jumping out of gear that's prob the box, not the clutch. $$$$, Speed Racer!!
Is there such a thing as a clutch pressure valve in the hydraulic clutch system for a ford fiesta zetec?
Recently whilst driving i attempted to change gear when the clutch pedal all of a sudden stuck to the floor when i pushed down on it this stopped me from changing gear and the car then just kept jerking forward .
Is there such a thing as a clutch pressure valve in the hydraulic clutch system for a ford fiesta zetec?
There might be a leak in the system
Is there such a thing as a clutch pressure valve in the hydraulic clutch system for a ford fiesta zetec?
There might be a leak in the system
How to change a cable clutch on a 68 volkswagen beetle?
Well my clutch cable is busted, I picked up the car and its all covered underneath. The middle plate is welded on to the car, thus I cannot remove that plate. I need details on how to remove it, Thanks
How to change a cable clutch on a 68 volkswagen beetle?
Loomom and William are both correct, but let me add to both of their answers. When you are doing the replacement, it is also a good idea to replace the hook on the clutch pedal while doing the job. The hook will wear out and eventually break. It should onlu cost about $5 or so. Replace it while you are in there with the hole thing taken apart. You will be mad at yourself after all that work only to have to do it again a short time down the road. The hook is held onto the clutch pedal rod with a push pin; just hit it out with a pin or nail. Be sure to grease the hook before installing the cable as you will have direct metal to metal contact. The electrical tape wont stick to grease, but if you wrap it a few times to hold the cable on you wont have any problems. The tape will just pull and break once installed and fall off; no big deal.
Also, when pushing the cable through the tunnel, it may get stuck as it gets to the tranny. There is a flexible tube with a bend in it. If you have a second person, have them push the cable while you climb underneath and wiggle the flex tube. If you do not have a second person you can pull the upper part of the tube out to help the pushing through process. Be sure to put the spacers/washers back in the same place. The spacers put the proper bend in the flex tube. Once the cable is through, reinstall the flex tube.
After a few miles/time of clutch usage, you will need to readjust the cable as it will stretch.
Combine the 3 answers and you shouldn't have any problems.
Have fun.
How to change a cable clutch on a 68 volkswagen beetle?
Loomo has the basics, but there are a few land mines in this job. First is the way the clutch cable just hooks on the end of the pedal. To make it stay put for replacement, I used to electric tape it in place. This way the tape fell off after the job was done. The cable had to be pulled tight as the pedal cluster was installed or tape or not the cable would fall off.
Next, you had to hook the clutch cable guide tube with a finger and see if it was still firmly attached to the tunnel.
The flex tube between the body work and the trans had to be undone so the threaded end of the cable would slide through.
Slip on the flex tube, and thread the butterfly nut on the cable after it was speared thru the clutch activator arm sticking out of the trans bell housing. Pump the clutch a few times and re adjust.
There is no need to go under the car. I did some 30 years ago so here it goes (memory?).
Remove the the brake-clutch pedal assembly(2 bolts) and the cable will come out. Install new cable with grease on it through the tube and reattach to pedal assm. Then fish the threaded end through the clutch fork lever on the bellhousing.
Do not tighten the lock nut untill you press down the pedal a few times to get the proper freeplay.
If you still cannot follow all the good answers given above, here is the step-by-step procedure for changing it. www.vw-resource.com is a website that should be in your favorites if you own a VW. Excellent website for repairing/restoring your VW.
http://www.vw-resource.com/cable.html
How to change a cable clutch on a 68 volkswagen beetle?
Loomom and William are both correct, but let me add to both of their answers. When you are doing the replacement, it is also a good idea to replace the hook on the clutch pedal while doing the job. The hook will wear out and eventually break. It should onlu cost about $5 or so. Replace it while you are in there with the hole thing taken apart. You will be mad at yourself after all that work only to have to do it again a short time down the road. The hook is held onto the clutch pedal rod with a push pin; just hit it out with a pin or nail. Be sure to grease the hook before installing the cable as you will have direct metal to metal contact. The electrical tape wont stick to grease, but if you wrap it a few times to hold the cable on you wont have any problems. The tape will just pull and break once installed and fall off; no big deal.
Also, when pushing the cable through the tunnel, it may get stuck as it gets to the tranny. There is a flexible tube with a bend in it. If you have a second person, have them push the cable while you climb underneath and wiggle the flex tube. If you do not have a second person you can pull the upper part of the tube out to help the pushing through process. Be sure to put the spacers/washers back in the same place. The spacers put the proper bend in the flex tube. Once the cable is through, reinstall the flex tube.
After a few miles/time of clutch usage, you will need to readjust the cable as it will stretch.
Combine the 3 answers and you shouldn't have any problems.
Have fun.
How to change a cable clutch on a 68 volkswagen beetle?
Loomo has the basics, but there are a few land mines in this job. First is the way the clutch cable just hooks on the end of the pedal. To make it stay put for replacement, I used to electric tape it in place. This way the tape fell off after the job was done. The cable had to be pulled tight as the pedal cluster was installed or tape or not the cable would fall off.
Next, you had to hook the clutch cable guide tube with a finger and see if it was still firmly attached to the tunnel.
The flex tube between the body work and the trans had to be undone so the threaded end of the cable would slide through.
Slip on the flex tube, and thread the butterfly nut on the cable after it was speared thru the clutch activator arm sticking out of the trans bell housing. Pump the clutch a few times and re adjust.
There is no need to go under the car. I did some 30 years ago so here it goes (memory?).
Remove the the brake-clutch pedal assembly(2 bolts) and the cable will come out. Install new cable with grease on it through the tube and reattach to pedal assm. Then fish the threaded end through the clutch fork lever on the bellhousing.
Do not tighten the lock nut untill you press down the pedal a few times to get the proper freeplay.
If you still cannot follow all the good answers given above, here is the step-by-step procedure for changing it. www.vw-resource.com is a website that should be in your favorites if you own a VW. Excellent website for repairing/restoring your VW.
http://www.vw-resource.com/cable.html
Need troubleshooting on my Kawasaki KFX 400 clutch?
We just changed the clutch on my atv, starting off we pulled off the wrong cover and it drained oil because as it turns out we pulled off the cover on the wrong side, and once we found out that we did so we put it back and then we put the clutch in as needed and now everytime we engage the clutch it makes a winding noise until its released, What was in the opposite cover and how much of it is needed?
Need troubleshooting on my Kawasaki KFX 400 clutch?
The oil that poured out was transmission fluid. You'll need to either look in the manual that came with your KFX 400 or call a Kawasaki dealer to find out the fluid capacity.
Need troubleshooting on my Kawasaki KFX 400 clutch?
The oil that poured out was transmission fluid. You'll need to either look in the manual that came with your KFX 400 or call a Kawasaki dealer to find out the fluid capacity.
My turbo 400 transmission still slips the same even after changing the clutches what else could it be?
make sure the vacuum modulator is good and has a good source of vacuum, also make sure the detent cable is adjusted right.
My turbo 400 transmission still slips the same even after changing the clutches what else could it be?
torque converter
good luck mrgreg1
My turbo 400 transmission still slips the same even after changing the clutches what else could it be?
did you replace the pump ?horses java
My turbo 400 transmission still slips the same even after changing the clutches what else could it be?
torque converter
good luck mrgreg1
My turbo 400 transmission still slips the same even after changing the clutches what else could it be?
did you replace the pump ?
96 ford fan clutch always on?
had a/c compressor and fan clutch changed. fan clutch stayed on , robbed my power, belt squeals when i step on the gas too hard. had guy replace it and it still stays on all the time. he says it is fine and that the belt squealing has nothing to do with what he did, even though it never squealed before. never had heating problems even when the fan clutch didn't work. should i try another clutch manufacturer, an electric one, a flex fan?
96 ford fan clutch always on?
Sounds like the clutch is not working. To check it, use a timing light and shine it at the fan blades. When you rev it up you will see the fan spin faster and then level off. Then release the throttle and let it slow down. You will be able to see with the timing light. If the belt squeals, its probably loose, and if thats slipping your clutch will not work properly because it is being jerked around. Check belt tension, when the cars is off there should be a SLIGHT drag when you spin the fan. Make sure your water pump is not seizing up because of maybe too much belt tension. The squeal should not be ignored, its burning rubber on your pulleys.
96 ford fan clutch always on?
A simple solution so you can sleep soundly tonight: Go to your Ford dealer and simply ask if there's a problem or not. They won't hurt you, don't worry.
Try another one made by a high quality manufacturer, do not use a flex fan because you will fry the a/c system and don't rely on an electric fan because you will always be looking at the temp guage.
i doubt the fan/clutch is the problem... maybe the tensioner or the replacement compressor
If it's the A/C clutch and you've replaced it twice, check for a sticking thermostat keeping the clutch engaged.
96 ford fan clutch always on?
Sounds like the clutch is not working. To check it, use a timing light and shine it at the fan blades. When you rev it up you will see the fan spin faster and then level off. Then release the throttle and let it slow down. You will be able to see with the timing light. If the belt squeals, its probably loose, and if thats slipping your clutch will not work properly because it is being jerked around. Check belt tension, when the cars is off there should be a SLIGHT drag when you spin the fan. Make sure your water pump is not seizing up because of maybe too much belt tension. The squeal should not be ignored, its burning rubber on your pulleys.
96 ford fan clutch always on?
A simple solution so you can sleep soundly tonight: Go to your Ford dealer and simply ask if there's a problem or not. They won't hurt you, don't worry.
Try another one made by a high quality manufacturer, do not use a flex fan because you will fry the a/c system and don't rely on an electric fan because you will always be looking at the temp guage.
i doubt the fan/clutch is the problem... maybe the tensioner or the replacement compressor
If it's the A/C clutch and you've replaced it twice, check for a sticking thermostat keeping the clutch engaged.
I just got my clutch changed yesterday, but sometimes when I try to switch gears, I can't, they are stuck.
Yes, I am pressing it down all the way:)
I just got my clutch changed yesterday, but sometimes when I try to switch gears, I can't, they are stuck.
take it back to who ever changed it.
I just got my clutch changed yesterday, but sometimes when I try to switch gears, I can't, they are stuck.
maybe it is the GearBox lubrication, cuz they kinda remove some when repairing it, or maybe it is the clutch pressure (thats when he removes the air trapped in ur hydraulic oil chamber), let me make it easy 4 u sugar, Go to ur mechanic and tell him it is his fault he did not lubricate/De-Pressure the hydraulic oil case correctely..
wish it helps
Get it back soon to whoever installed ..it's not functioning right....you also could get in a serious accident..don't gamble with your life..
when you press down all the way with the parking brake off does it creep in gear ? if it does the clearance needs adjustment,in any case you should take it back to the fitter as it is not adjusted correctly is it .
get a new car
take it back and have them adjust the clutch properly.
I just got my clutch changed yesterday, but sometimes when I try to switch gears, I can't, they are stuck.
take it back to who ever changed it.
I just got my clutch changed yesterday, but sometimes when I try to switch gears, I can't, they are stuck.
maybe it is the GearBox lubrication, cuz they kinda remove some when repairing it, or maybe it is the clutch pressure (thats when he removes the air trapped in ur hydraulic oil chamber), let me make it easy 4 u sugar, Go to ur mechanic and tell him it is his fault he did not lubricate/De-Pressure the hydraulic oil case correctely..
wish it helps
Get it back soon to whoever installed ..it's not functioning right....you also could get in a serious accident..don't gamble with your life..
when you press down all the way with the parking brake off does it creep in gear ? if it does the clearance needs adjustment,in any case you should take it back to the fitter as it is not adjusted correctly is it .
get a new car
take it back and have them adjust the clutch properly.
My car keeps cutting out when in wait at light and when i dip the clutch to change gear nearing a junction?
my car keeps cutting out when in wait at light and when i dip the clutch to change gear nearing a junction and sometimes it will not start
My car keeps cutting out when in wait at light and when i dip the clutch to change gear nearing a junction?
Best not to fiddle with the timing unless you know what you are doing; it's more likely to make matters worse and also decrease your gas mileage substantially. Something as simple as a clogged fuel filter could cause these symptoms; either through not being changed to schedule or because you have inadvertently picked up some dirty gas at a station that has very old storage tanks.
My car keeps cutting out when in wait at light and when i dip the clutch to change gear nearing a junction?
Sounds electrical. Most discount part stores will check your starter and alternator on the vehicle. If your alternator/voltage regulator is malfunctioning, it may only put out enough voltage to keep the vehicle running when above idle.
Also without knowing the age of the vehicle, an older vehicle may need the idle adjusted. Most newer vehicles don't need this.
More information about the vehicle and maintainance would really help you to get a better solution.
keeping giving it gas rev it up it is supercharged and modifications to the engine
Maybe the timing is out
try adjusting the tick over speed on the carb.
My car keeps cutting out when in wait at light and when i dip the clutch to change gear nearing a junction?
Best not to fiddle with the timing unless you know what you are doing; it's more likely to make matters worse and also decrease your gas mileage substantially. Something as simple as a clogged fuel filter could cause these symptoms; either through not being changed to schedule or because you have inadvertently picked up some dirty gas at a station that has very old storage tanks.
My car keeps cutting out when in wait at light and when i dip the clutch to change gear nearing a junction?
Sounds electrical. Most discount part stores will check your starter and alternator on the vehicle. If your alternator/voltage regulator is malfunctioning, it may only put out enough voltage to keep the vehicle running when above idle.
Also without knowing the age of the vehicle, an older vehicle may need the idle adjusted. Most newer vehicles don't need this.
More information about the vehicle and maintainance would really help you to get a better solution.
keeping giving it gas rev it up it is supercharged and modifications to the engine
Maybe the timing is out
try adjusting the tick over speed on the carb.
Is it possible to change the clutch on a 1995 vw polo without taking the engine out.?
should be go out and by yourself a haynes repair manual for your vehicle and then see what they say. however this isn't something you're going to be able to do in your garage with a jack and jackstands since it's not a rear wheel drive vehicle. so you're going to need a lift. best be is to buy yourself a repair manual for your vehicle and go from there. they're pretty much a life saver. you're going to need it in the future so it's the best $25 you're ever going to spend on it.
Is it possible to change the clutch on a 1995 vw polo without taking the engine out.?
You'll either have to pull the engine or transmission. The clutch is between them.
Is it possible to change the clutch on a 1995 vw polo without taking the engine out.?
No.
The clutch is between the engine and the transmission. Even when you get them out it is a very precise process on what to do and you need a torque wrench which are pretty expensive.identifying rows handling exceptions
Is it possible to change the clutch on a 1995 vw polo without taking the engine out.?
You'll either have to pull the engine or transmission. The clutch is between them.
Is it possible to change the clutch on a 1995 vw polo without taking the engine out.?
No.
The clutch is between the engine and the transmission. Even when you get them out it is a very precise process on what to do and you need a torque wrench which are pretty expensive.
Changing gear, do you lift clutch all the way up before reapplying the gas pedal?
I was taught it was like %26quot;Duck's feet%26quot; one lifts as the other goes down.
It sounds more awkward than it actually is so don't worry - you'll get the hang of it.
Changing gear, do you lift clutch all the way up before reapplying the gas pedal?
If you lift the clutch all the way up then the engine speed is too low to get a smooth gearchange as the engine is just ticking over
This will cause the speed to drop and could cause an accident as the driver behind you is expecting your speed to go up not down
If you count from 1 to 4 with 1 being the clutch fully down and 4 being the clutch fully up when you get to 3 the gas pedal should go down
This gives the engine a chance to build up to speed and if you pause the pedal slightly when it gets to the biting point this will smooth the gearchange
Changing gear, do you lift clutch all the way up before reapplying the gas pedal?
It's sort of like 'tit-for-tat' - my instructor told me to think of my feet as penguins' feet that flap alternately - if one's going down, the other has to be coming up at the same time, if that makes sense.....which it probably doesn't, I can't explain it like she did!
Not exactly - you do both in one fluid movement and it takes practice
no usually its a little gas while you are are on the way up with the clutch pedal
It sounds more awkward than it actually is so don't worry - you'll get the hang of it.
Changing gear, do you lift clutch all the way up before reapplying the gas pedal?
If you lift the clutch all the way up then the engine speed is too low to get a smooth gearchange as the engine is just ticking over
This will cause the speed to drop and could cause an accident as the driver behind you is expecting your speed to go up not down
If you count from 1 to 4 with 1 being the clutch fully down and 4 being the clutch fully up when you get to 3 the gas pedal should go down
This gives the engine a chance to build up to speed and if you pause the pedal slightly when it gets to the biting point this will smooth the gearchange
Changing gear, do you lift clutch all the way up before reapplying the gas pedal?
It's sort of like 'tit-for-tat' - my instructor told me to think of my feet as penguins' feet that flap alternately - if one's going down, the other has to be coming up at the same time, if that makes sense.....which it probably doesn't, I can't explain it like she did!
Not exactly - you do both in one fluid movement and it takes practice
no usually its a little gas while you are are on the way up with the clutch pedal
Do I need special tools to change the clutch plates and springs on a Honda ATC 110. If, can I make it at home?
you will need an alignment tool to centralise you pressure plate
Clutch is very very hard to press ?
Mine is a HONDA ACCORD. 8 years old car with 75000 miles. Recently I have noticed I need to press the clutch much harder than normal to change gears and it jerks occasionally. Also the accelerator needs hard press. Any expert opinions please? Am i getting closer to a clutch change or is it something silly??
Clutch is very very hard to press ?
Unless there is a mechanical problem with the clutch it sounds like a poorly serviced car. You maybe need to change who does your regular preventative maintenance services to stop further problems in the future.
Clutch is very very hard to press ?
You may need a new clutch cable,however,if both the problems started together,the pedals shaft may be starting to sieze.
Try disconnecting the both cables,if the pedals move freely,you need a new clutch cable.If not,oil and free the shaft.
Probably 2 different problems.Your clutch pressure plate is probably on the way out if it,s a hydraulic clutch but if it,s a cable clutch then the cable could be dry or starting to fray and needs replacing.The accelerator problem could also be a cable fault but check that the pivot on the pedal and carb or fuel injection is free and not stiff.
If the clutch is not slipping, (engine races, no speed increase) and there are no nasty noises, it is unlikely to be the clutch itself. That said, it could be seizing on the shaft, (driven through any deep water recently) or possibly the cable is seizing or even the pivot that the pedal hangs from, I've included a link below that may help you to find a trustworthy garage in your area, fill out the checkbox on the right.
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/directory/in鈥?/a>
Hope this helps.
you need a new clutch
Clutch is very very hard to press ?
Unless there is a mechanical problem with the clutch it sounds like a poorly serviced car. You maybe need to change who does your regular preventative maintenance services to stop further problems in the future.
Clutch is very very hard to press ?
You may need a new clutch cable,however,if both the problems started together,the pedals shaft may be starting to sieze.
Try disconnecting the both cables,if the pedals move freely,you need a new clutch cable.If not,oil and free the shaft.
Probably 2 different problems.Your clutch pressure plate is probably on the way out if it,s a hydraulic clutch but if it,s a cable clutch then the cable could be dry or starting to fray and needs replacing.The accelerator problem could also be a cable fault but check that the pivot on the pedal and carb or fuel injection is free and not stiff.
If the clutch is not slipping, (engine races, no speed increase) and there are no nasty noises, it is unlikely to be the clutch itself. That said, it could be seizing on the shaft, (driven through any deep water recently) or possibly the cable is seizing or even the pivot that the pedal hangs from, I've included a link below that may help you to find a trustworthy garage in your area, fill out the checkbox on the right.
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/directory/in鈥?/a>
Hope this helps.
you need a new clutch
Peugeot 406 1.8.How many man hours to change the clutch?
Peugeot 406 1.8.How many hours labour to change the clutch?
Peugeot 406 1.8.How many man hours to change the clutch?
try mr clutch if there is one near you! they are very cheap just as cheap to get them to do it as it was for me to buy the clutch and you get a gaurantee from them they do have ther own website and were very quick it is definately worth a try as it is not a very nice job as it is french and need a lot of patience and will take you all day%26gt;
Peugeot 406 1.8.How many man hours to change the clutch?
with it being a peugeot french made it will take about 2 days
about 48 hours i think
Peugeot 406 1.8.How many man hours to change the clutch?
try mr clutch if there is one near you! they are very cheap just as cheap to get them to do it as it was for me to buy the clutch and you get a gaurantee from them they do have ther own website and were very quick it is definately worth a try as it is not a very nice job as it is french and need a lot of patience and will take you all day%26gt;
Peugeot 406 1.8.How many man hours to change the clutch?
with it being a peugeot french made it will take about 2 days
about 48 hours i think
1994 camaro 3.4 five speed , How do you adjust the clutch ?
It is very hard to get it in to First and grinds in reverse .so i changed the clutch ,and it got worse now first and second and reverse..once i have it in gear and with the clutch pedal to the floor. it will slowly move foward.. this is a problem ANY IDEAS?????????????
1994 camaro 3.4 five speed , How do you adjust the clutch ?
since this system is hydraulic and not a cable,you will need to bleed the slave.a mighty vac would work the best for at home.a power bleeder if you have a shop to work at.most clutch kits come with a clutch plate,pressure plate,throw out bearing and pilot bearing/bushing.make sure you have the clutch fork set in the throw out bearing,it should have a spring retainer.
1994 camaro 3.4 five speed , How do you adjust the clutch ?
sounds like the cable needs to be adjusted as well as your shifting brackets, unless your are mechanicly inclined take it to a shop cause its going to be a long day. also did you get a new flywheel or atleast have your old one resurfaced cause if not you might end up buying another clutch
http://ok-auto-insurance.blogspot.com/myspace layouts how to get a girl with a boyfriend
1994 camaro 3.4 five speed , How do you adjust the clutch ?
since this system is hydraulic and not a cable,you will need to bleed the slave.a mighty vac would work the best for at home.a power bleeder if you have a shop to work at.most clutch kits come with a clutch plate,pressure plate,throw out bearing and pilot bearing/bushing.make sure you have the clutch fork set in the throw out bearing,it should have a spring retainer.
1994 camaro 3.4 five speed , How do you adjust the clutch ?
sounds like the cable needs to be adjusted as well as your shifting brackets, unless your are mechanicly inclined take it to a shop cause its going to be a long day. also did you get a new flywheel or atleast have your old one resurfaced cause if not you might end up buying another clutch
http://ok-auto-insurance.blogspot.com/
Will changing the steel wheels to super light ones make a difference in my car while engauging clutch?
im about to get lighter wheels for my car, alot lighter! driving on steel wheels now, and i drive a stick. whil wheels do anything for torque? or change the way my car feels while turning, or engauging the clutch from a dead stop?
Will changing the steel wheels to super light ones make a difference in my car while engauging clutch?
No!! The clutch will feel the same. What you have changed is the un-sprung weight which should make handling better,but not noticeably as you should not be pushing that hard on the streets.
Will changing the steel wheels to super light ones make a difference in my car while engauging clutch?
It will help a little for acceleration. Not very noticeable though. As far as the way it feels when turning that depends on the width of the rim and the profile of the tire. You get a wide rim and low profile tire it will corner the best.
i have aluminum wheels they don't make anymore from 90s and doesn't make much difference unless your blasting down the road and 90 percent of driving isn't that
nuthing to do with the clutch tho
Same, except more pride that you invest money for the change
Will changing the steel wheels to super light ones make a difference in my car while engauging clutch?
No!! The clutch will feel the same. What you have changed is the un-sprung weight which should make handling better,but not noticeably as you should not be pushing that hard on the streets.
Will changing the steel wheels to super light ones make a difference in my car while engauging clutch?
It will help a little for acceleration. Not very noticeable though. As far as the way it feels when turning that depends on the width of the rim and the profile of the tire. You get a wide rim and low profile tire it will corner the best.
i have aluminum wheels they don't make anymore from 90s and doesn't make much difference unless your blasting down the road and 90 percent of driving isn't that
nuthing to do with the clutch tho
Same, except more pride that you invest money for the change
Would a 84' Dodge Charger that has 125000m on it and need either a new clutch or transmission be worth it?
I posted a question about an 84 charger already but it turns out it needs either a new clutch or a whole new transmission. I probably have enough money to buy the car but to change trany or clutch would cost even more. Need input!!!
Would a 84' Dodge Charger that has 125000m on it and need either a new clutch or transmission be worth it?
Many of these cars have transaxle issues (A-525) they are rather weak and tend to lose the differential bearings, then break the pinion shaft or worse break the case, if it's stuck in gear and will not come out, or makes grinding noises, it is likely the trans has failed. If you choose to go with a newer transaxle ( A-520 or A-555) you will need axles from an Omni (89-90) shift cables, shift assembly, brackets etc. best to find a donor car and rob it of all the hardware. this mod is not for the novice, and would likely cost you a lot if a shop would even consider it, but it is the way to go if you really want a trans to last in it.
Would a 84' Dodge Charger that has 125000m on it and need either a new clutch or transmission be worth it?
sounds like the value of that car is zero, cause its not running
If it needs a new clutch, I'd say $75-100 MAX, if it needs a new transmission it's better off in a junkyard.
No, walk away fast-find one that is at least running, or buy it so cheap that you can afford to repair. good luck
a good clutch kit will cost you around 125.00 bucks or more,for a good one and if its the transmission which it shouldn't be,would add another 350 bucks to the bill,a good used transmission for that car will cost around 350,plus the cost of the clutch kit and labor putting it all in,so be careful on this one,it could cost more than its worth to repair it,those was good little cars,but in time everything wears out,and repairing them now days cost a lot,good luck with it.
Would a 84' Dodge Charger that has 125000m on it and need either a new clutch or transmission be worth it?
Many of these cars have transaxle issues (A-525) they are rather weak and tend to lose the differential bearings, then break the pinion shaft or worse break the case, if it's stuck in gear and will not come out, or makes grinding noises, it is likely the trans has failed. If you choose to go with a newer transaxle ( A-520 or A-555) you will need axles from an Omni (89-90) shift cables, shift assembly, brackets etc. best to find a donor car and rob it of all the hardware. this mod is not for the novice, and would likely cost you a lot if a shop would even consider it, but it is the way to go if you really want a trans to last in it.
Would a 84' Dodge Charger that has 125000m on it and need either a new clutch or transmission be worth it?
sounds like the value of that car is zero, cause its not running
If it needs a new clutch, I'd say $75-100 MAX, if it needs a new transmission it's better off in a junkyard.
No, walk away fast-find one that is at least running, or buy it so cheap that you can afford to repair. good luck
a good clutch kit will cost you around 125.00 bucks or more,for a good one and if its the transmission which it shouldn't be,would add another 350 bucks to the bill,a good used transmission for that car will cost around 350,plus the cost of the clutch kit and labor putting it all in,so be careful on this one,it could cost more than its worth to repair it,those was good little cars,but in time everything wears out,and repairing them now days cost a lot,good luck with it.
When to change cam belt on Honda Accord (W Reg 2000) model?
It鈥檚 done 60k miles and I'm confused bcz my local garage told that it will go upto 70k. The owner鈥檚 manual says it should be changed at 60k. Which one is correct? How much it will cost? The gear is so hard in my car, is this related to belt? When do we change clutch disk? Please help me and advice about the cost in Manchester for these jobs.
When to change cam belt on Honda Accord (W Reg 2000) model?
first off you're asking in the wrong country...this is the US...so scroll down to the flag of the UK and ask there..
here in the US we change the timing belt about 80,000. If it's a chain, we don't need it changed....now...the clutch plate needs to be replaced when it's slipping. If it's hard to shift, then you need to have the gears and clutch looked at. if it's squealing, then it's the throwout bearing. If you can't shift it may be the gears or the clutch, or both...
Here in the US a good job at the dealer will cost about $1500. for the clutch. 1/2 that in EU's/pounds
When to change cam belt on Honda Accord (W Reg 2000) model?
first off you're asking in the wrong country...this is the US...so scroll down to the flag of the UK and ask there..
here in the US we change the timing belt about 80,000. If it's a chain, we don't need it changed....now...the clutch plate needs to be replaced when it's slipping. If it's hard to shift, then you need to have the gears and clutch looked at. if it's squealing, then it's the throwout bearing. If you can't shift it may be the gears or the clutch, or both...
Here in the US a good job at the dealer will cost about $1500. for the clutch. 1/2 that in EU's/pounds
When to change cam belt on Honda Accord (W Reg 2000) model?
It鈥檚 done 60k miles and I'm confused bcz my local garage told that it will go upto 70k. The owner鈥檚 manual says it should be changed at 60k. Which one is correct? How much it will cost? The gear is so hard in my car, is this related to belt? When do we change clutch disk? Please help me and advice about the cost in Manchester for these jobs.
When to change cam belt on Honda Accord (W Reg 2000) model?
My favourite car I have ever owned. Every 50k-60k miles it should be done, will cost around 拢100 depending on the garage. Look after the car. They are great cars to own
When to change cam belt on Honda Accord (W Reg 2000) model?
The shop is correct, sort of. The belt needs to be changed BEFORE 70k miles. Honda recommends 60k to make sure it doesnt break and mess everything up. The belts will last beyond 70k, but you run a huge risk of it snapping. As far as cost to change it, it varies widely from one shop to the next. Ask the guys that told you when to change it.
http://honda.justanswer.com/?r=gacar%26amp;JCR鈥?/a>
I would believe the owners manual and do it at 60k at the latest but personally I would have done it at 50-55k just to be on the safe side.
It is better to be safe than sorry.
The cost for a cambelt kit fitted to my ford mondeo was 拢140.
When to change cam belt on Honda Accord (W Reg 2000) model?
My favourite car I have ever owned. Every 50k-60k miles it should be done, will cost around 拢100 depending on the garage. Look after the car. They are great cars to own
When to change cam belt on Honda Accord (W Reg 2000) model?
The shop is correct, sort of. The belt needs to be changed BEFORE 70k miles. Honda recommends 60k to make sure it doesnt break and mess everything up. The belts will last beyond 70k, but you run a huge risk of it snapping. As far as cost to change it, it varies widely from one shop to the next. Ask the guys that told you when to change it.
http://honda.justanswer.com/?r=gacar%26amp;JCR鈥?/a>
I would believe the owners manual and do it at 60k at the latest but personally I would have done it at 50-55k just to be on the safe side.
It is better to be safe than sorry.
The cost for a cambelt kit fitted to my ford mondeo was 拢140.
Has anyone else had their clutch changed by Mr Clutch? Seems that they always change the flywheel!!!?
Took my VW to mr clutch today and was told that the flywheel was cracked and needed to be changed before they could fit the new clutch. I went ahead and it was fitted - the bill for this came to 拢580!
Later on in the day i looked at google and found that hundreds of posting where mr clutch had done the same thing. Is it really that common that the flywheel needs changing?
I asked to look at the original flywheel and could barely see any scratches. The centre part moved about an inch which i was told was also are reason for it being replaced.
Have i been ripped off? Feel pretty fed up!
Has anyone else had their clutch changed by Mr Clutch? Seems that they always change the flywheel!!!?
I do not know about Mr Clutch or their practices. However, if your VW is one of the older aircooled VW'is then I would definitely say that if the ring gear was not worn - you are being ripped off. On the AC VW's the starter motor ring gear is an integral part of the flywheel (not a shrink fit). When the ring gear gets damaged you can skim the ring gear once, and the second time that it gets worn you have to replace it.
Sorry - see now that you say that they stated that it was cracked. I cannot quite visualise the section that you state moved about an inch - can't see how a crack in a flywheel allowing anywhere near that type of movement (unless it was broken and this is also difficult to visualise).
Must admit that I have never come across a cracked flywheel yet in all my years as a 'hobby' mechanic. Would be interesting to see a photo of this cracked flywheel.
Has anyone else had their clutch changed by Mr Clutch? Seems that they always change the flywheel!!!?
It really depends on how far gone the clutch was. If the clutch totally fails it can do damage to the flywheel since the clutch presses directly on the flywheel. If the clutch has just reached the end of it's life and hasn't totally failed yet, the flywheel really should not need to be replaced.
We would routinely resurface the flywheel on every clutch job. They wear with little ridges which shortly cut thru the new clutch till all the surfaces touch and provide the internal grip a clutch needs to do it job for another 60 thousand or more miles. With out a resurface -you loose a lot of miliage and the unit may chatter when engauging.
As for the price, it sounds like a lot of money, but a friend here in the states just paid $1000 for that same job on a chevy.computer eye strain columnheader
Later on in the day i looked at google and found that hundreds of posting where mr clutch had done the same thing. Is it really that common that the flywheel needs changing?
I asked to look at the original flywheel and could barely see any scratches. The centre part moved about an inch which i was told was also are reason for it being replaced.
Have i been ripped off? Feel pretty fed up!
Has anyone else had their clutch changed by Mr Clutch? Seems that they always change the flywheel!!!?
I do not know about Mr Clutch or their practices. However, if your VW is one of the older aircooled VW'is then I would definitely say that if the ring gear was not worn - you are being ripped off. On the AC VW's the starter motor ring gear is an integral part of the flywheel (not a shrink fit). When the ring gear gets damaged you can skim the ring gear once, and the second time that it gets worn you have to replace it.
Sorry - see now that you say that they stated that it was cracked. I cannot quite visualise the section that you state moved about an inch - can't see how a crack in a flywheel allowing anywhere near that type of movement (unless it was broken and this is also difficult to visualise).
Must admit that I have never come across a cracked flywheel yet in all my years as a 'hobby' mechanic. Would be interesting to see a photo of this cracked flywheel.
Has anyone else had their clutch changed by Mr Clutch? Seems that they always change the flywheel!!!?
It really depends on how far gone the clutch was. If the clutch totally fails it can do damage to the flywheel since the clutch presses directly on the flywheel. If the clutch has just reached the end of it's life and hasn't totally failed yet, the flywheel really should not need to be replaced.
We would routinely resurface the flywheel on every clutch job. They wear with little ridges which shortly cut thru the new clutch till all the surfaces touch and provide the internal grip a clutch needs to do it job for another 60 thousand or more miles. With out a resurface -you loose a lot of miliage and the unit may chatter when engauging.
As for the price, it sounds like a lot of money, but a friend here in the states just paid $1000 for that same job on a chevy.
How hard is it to change out a clutch for 00 tegy ls?
i just wana kno how hard it is to change one out myself.. i dont have loads of cash so i dont really wana spend 500-2500 for someone else to do it. i dont think it is worth the money thats kinda redonkulus
How hard is it to change out a clutch for 00 tegy ls?
who ever told you 2500 was wrong. it didn't even cost me 300 total to fix my car and they had to take the engine out. i didn't fix my clutch but your car like most just needs the trans to be dropped and fixed. but be aware and ask the mechanic for what else you have to fix. such as if its a hydraulic clutch(not to be mixed up with the brake hydraulic cylinder.) if it ain't hydraulic then just ask if anything else should be replaced at this time because if you don't do it now, you will have to later on and have to pull out the tranny all over again.
How hard is it to change out a clutch for 00 tegy ls?
From what i understand its quite a pain in the ***. You need have the tools, espically the one where as in you need to take the ENGINE out.
you can unbolt tranny from motor and change it, u dont have to take out the motor at all. i changed my friends and the most we had to do for a clutch job was take out trans and loosen some mounts, u need more than a couple of hands though, but if i were u and u dont have a good mechanic understanding, a clutch job shouldn't be more than 250-400 dollars...where did 2500 come from?
The only Integra clutch I've done was on my son's 1994. The 2000 may be significantly different.
Of course, the front axles come out. Otherwise dis-assembly was no big deal. The job threw us two curves, though. The first was that we couldn't get the pilot bearing out, even breaking an extractor tool. The bearing came out the back of the flywheel! And when we took the transmission down we had to rotate it about 30 degrees to clear something so we had to make the opposite adjustment when putting it back up. That meant we couldn't use a transmission jack, and I actually pulled a muscle in my face getting the transmission to drop into place. Every time I do a clutch I swear it will be the last time.
How hard is it to change out a clutch for 00 tegy ls?
who ever told you 2500 was wrong. it didn't even cost me 300 total to fix my car and they had to take the engine out. i didn't fix my clutch but your car like most just needs the trans to be dropped and fixed. but be aware and ask the mechanic for what else you have to fix. such as if its a hydraulic clutch(not to be mixed up with the brake hydraulic cylinder.) if it ain't hydraulic then just ask if anything else should be replaced at this time because if you don't do it now, you will have to later on and have to pull out the tranny all over again.
How hard is it to change out a clutch for 00 tegy ls?
From what i understand its quite a pain in the ***. You need have the tools, espically the one where as in you need to take the ENGINE out.
you can unbolt tranny from motor and change it, u dont have to take out the motor at all. i changed my friends and the most we had to do for a clutch job was take out trans and loosen some mounts, u need more than a couple of hands though, but if i were u and u dont have a good mechanic understanding, a clutch job shouldn't be more than 250-400 dollars...where did 2500 come from?
The only Integra clutch I've done was on my son's 1994. The 2000 may be significantly different.
Of course, the front axles come out. Otherwise dis-assembly was no big deal. The job threw us two curves, though. The first was that we couldn't get the pilot bearing out, even breaking an extractor tool. The bearing came out the back of the flywheel! And when we took the transmission down we had to rotate it about 30 degrees to clear something so we had to make the opposite adjustment when putting it back up. That meant we couldn't use a transmission jack, and I actually pulled a muscle in my face getting the transmission to drop into place. Every time I do a clutch I swear it will be the last time.
On average how long would it take a pro mechnic to change the clutch on a Mitsubishi truck with the 2.0 engin
three to four hours
On average how long would it take a pro mechnic to change the clutch on a Mitsubishi truck with the 2.0 engin
about a day maybe about 3 to 5 hours sometimes less
On average how long would it take a pro mechnic to change the clutch on a Mitsubishi truck with the 2.0 engin
There is a mechanics labor book that tells the mechanic how long a job should take. That time is how he charges the hourly labor costs to you. I done a clutch job years ago but it still the same... I am not a real mechanic and we ate lunch drank a few beers. Made a day of the whole thing. Bought a clutch plate alignment tool . We could have probable done it in 4 hours. But, like I say , we were in no hurry... If the mechanic finished the job before the book says--BULLY--he is a mechanic. He is still gona charge the hours what the book says. .
On average how long would it take a pro mechnic to change the clutch on a Mitsubishi truck with the 2.0 engin
about a day maybe about 3 to 5 hours sometimes less
On average how long would it take a pro mechnic to change the clutch on a Mitsubishi truck with the 2.0 engin
There is a mechanics labor book that tells the mechanic how long a job should take. That time is how he charges the hourly labor costs to you. I done a clutch job years ago but it still the same... I am not a real mechanic and we ate lunch drank a few beers. Made a day of the whole thing. Bought a clutch plate alignment tool . We could have probable done it in 4 hours. But, like I say , we were in no hurry... If the mechanic finished the job before the book says--BULLY--he is a mechanic. He is still gona charge the hours what the book says. .
Is it hard to change the clutch on a Mazda Miata 1992?
They are really pretty easy. I did a few when I used to work at a Mazda shop. A good workshop manual and a decent set of ($100-$150) worth of hand tools, a torque wrench ($20-$100), 4 jack stands, and a jack (not the emergency kind but a floor jack) are all you need to do the job. If you buy most clutch kits they will include a clutch alignment tool. If not you can buy one for $5 or so.
The hardest part is taking off the exhaust. They tend to be rusty so use goggles and soak all the bolts with a lubricant a couple of times a few hours before you try to brake them loose.
Lube all the bolts before you install them with anti-seize or motor oil before you reinstall things. And torque everything to the recommended torque. Good Luck
Is it hard to change the clutch on a Mazda Miata 1992?
i don't know
Is it hard to change the clutch on a Mazda Miata 1992?
not too awful bad. the worst part is dropping the exhaust without breaking bolts.
The hardest part is taking off the exhaust. They tend to be rusty so use goggles and soak all the bolts with a lubricant a couple of times a few hours before you try to brake them loose.
Lube all the bolts before you install them with anti-seize or motor oil before you reinstall things. And torque everything to the recommended torque. Good Luck
Is it hard to change the clutch on a Mazda Miata 1992?
i don't know
Is it hard to change the clutch on a Mazda Miata 1992?
not too awful bad. the worst part is dropping the exhaust without breaking bolts.
How do change the clutch slave on my 1988 ford ranger 2.0?
And did you ever get your sender replaced yet?
How do change the clutch slave on my 1988 ford ranger 2.0?
Purchase a Haynes repair manual. Get familiar with the job. Not hard to do, just takes time.
How do change the clutch slave on my 1988 ford ranger 2.0?
You have to pull the transmission, it is behind it.
It is an involved job, especially on the 4x4 engines.
Take care not to damage the clutch hydraulic line. On the 2.8 engine it is held in place with a pin not a quick release link. The 2.8 engined clutch line has a residual pressure valve in it to keep the clutch adjusted. Also when bleeding it will need to be pumped up again after bleeding (Chilton's does not tell you this).
Check the Ranger forums.
How do change the clutch slave on my 1988 ford ranger 2.0?
Purchase a Haynes repair manual. Get familiar with the job. Not hard to do, just takes time.
How do change the clutch slave on my 1988 ford ranger 2.0?
You have to pull the transmission, it is behind it.
It is an involved job, especially on the 4x4 engines.
Take care not to damage the clutch hydraulic line. On the 2.8 engine it is held in place with a pin not a quick release link. The 2.8 engined clutch line has a residual pressure valve in it to keep the clutch adjusted. Also when bleeding it will need to be pumped up again after bleeding (Chilton's does not tell you this).
Check the Ranger forums.
How do you change a clutch master cylinder on a rover 600?
need to change my master cylinder as it not working properly clutch pedal hits the floor before it moves my clutch
How do you change a clutch master cylinder on a rover 600?
master cylinder either that or would that be slave cylinder on the side of transmission. both will be about same.. remove two bolts unscrew a line. replace line bleed air out of system type into search box
how to replace clutch master cylinder
how to replace clutch slave cylinder
how to bleed clutch
will pretty much get what you need to know if you add video to the end of any many times wil find one most car reapirs are online so finding how to replace name of part name of car video plus autozone .com you can look up your part and also get a how to replace it as wellconsultancy works for a guy to get a pedicure
How do you change a clutch master cylinder on a rover 600?
master cylinder either that or would that be slave cylinder on the side of transmission. both will be about same.. remove two bolts unscrew a line. replace line bleed air out of system type into search box
how to replace clutch master cylinder
how to replace clutch slave cylinder
how to bleed clutch
will pretty much get what you need to know if you add video to the end of any many times wil find one most car reapirs are online so finding how to replace name of part name of car video plus autozone .com you can look up your part and also get a how to replace it as well
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Easiest way to change the clutch on a 1990 toyota clica gt ?
Easy???? NO!
You have to drop the transmission, period.
Easiest way to change the clutch on a 1990 toyota clica gt ?
Have someone else do it.
You have to drop the transmission, period.
Easiest way to change the clutch on a 1990 toyota clica gt ?
Have someone else do it.
My fan is making a loud noise with each rotation. Do I just need to change the fan clutch?
I have a 76 chevy c20 truck with a 350. When I start up my truck the fan makes a loud noise almost like each blade is hitting something metal. The higher my rpms, the louder, and faster it makes that noise. Does this just mean that I need to replace the fan clutch or could the problem be somewhere else?
My fan is making a loud noise with each rotation. Do I just need to change the fan clutch?
After you check to see if it is hitting anything, try oilling it a little
My fan is making a loud noise with each rotation. Do I just need to change the fan clutch?
Check under the hood and see if the fan is hitting anything.
My fan is making a loud noise with each rotation. Do I just need to change the fan clutch?
After you check to see if it is hitting anything, try oilling it a little
My fan is making a loud noise with each rotation. Do I just need to change the fan clutch?
Check under the hood and see if the fan is hitting anything.
How long does it take to change the ac clutch?
I have a 1996 chevrolet lumina the part is like $100 dollars at auto zone, but how much do you think the labor will cost and how long will it take to get it done.
How long does it take to change the ac clutch?
It just depends on where you take it.It will take 30-45 mins.to change it if that is all that is wrong with it.Most shops will have a 1 hour minimum labor charge.Just make sure you take it to a shop with a good reputation.
How long does it take to change the ac clutch?
It just depends on where you take it.It will take 30-45 mins.to change it if that is all that is wrong with it.Most shops will have a 1 hour minimum labor charge.Just make sure you take it to a shop with a good reputation.
When should i replace my clutch?
I have a 95 Mitsubishi Mighty Max and didn't changed the clutch for 13 years when is the best time to do it?
When should i replace my clutch?
You just keep going with it until it slips and burns out, there isn't really any hard and fast rules regarding it, all very dependant though on how the driver uses the clutch, if you don't ride the pedal or abuse it in any way then in can last x amount of miles. The only time you change a clutch before it's slipping is if you need to remove the transmission for any reason, you do it then as a matter of course.
When should i replace my clutch?
Basically when you wear it out enough and it doesn't %26quot;catch%26quot; anymore. Could cost alot, but if you take car of your car, a manual is better in many different ways.
when it starts slipping no point in changing it until it gives trouble
When should i replace my clutch?
You just keep going with it until it slips and burns out, there isn't really any hard and fast rules regarding it, all very dependant though on how the driver uses the clutch, if you don't ride the pedal or abuse it in any way then in can last x amount of miles. The only time you change a clutch before it's slipping is if you need to remove the transmission for any reason, you do it then as a matter of course.
When should i replace my clutch?
Basically when you wear it out enough and it doesn't %26quot;catch%26quot; anymore. Could cost alot, but if you take car of your car, a manual is better in many different ways.
when it starts slipping no point in changing it until it gives trouble
I am looking for a website that has instructions on how to change a clutch.?
i have a 2001 chevy s10 2.2l 4 cylinder truck and i want to replace the clutch. I am looking for a website or manuals online which give good insructions. If any knows of a good website please let me know. thanks
I am looking for a website that has instructions on how to change a clutch.?
http://www.ehow.com/how_2157600_replace-鈥?/a>
I am looking for a website that has instructions on how to change a clutch.?
alldatadiy.com it will cost you a few bucks but it works welldesktop issue Where i can buy server to host my own web site
I am looking for a website that has instructions on how to change a clutch.?
http://www.ehow.com/how_2157600_replace-鈥?/a>
I am looking for a website that has instructions on how to change a clutch.?
alldatadiy.com it will cost you a few bucks but it works well
How do I change out a clutch fork assembly on an (Isuzu) 4 speed transmission for my 86 Fiero SE ?
I have the trans out on the floor. I have a new fork assembly,both bushings. Just can't figure out how to get the old one out , and the new one in(it's one solid part with fork welded on).It's for an Isuzu(76mm) trany for my 1986 Fiero SE.
How do I change out a clutch fork assembly on an (Isuzu) 4 speed transmission for my 86 Fiero SE ?
I looked at my car and I have a clutch spoon. I'll have to consult my Chilton Repair Manual.
How do I change out a clutch fork assembly on an (Isuzu) 4 speed transmission for my 86 Fiero SE ?
ther is a cross pin ,find it and the rest is easy.
excuse me , are You talking of the fork of the throwout bearing or the shifter fork.
if the shifter fork then You have to remove the upper plate in the tranny (four screws) that plate have the shifter knob in the center, then you gonna see the forks for the gears.
if is Your first time ,do not rust and look good in Your steps
i will stay in the line in case You ask more questions..
if You bring picture ,will be more easy....i am blind here You know?
How do I change out a clutch fork assembly on an (Isuzu) 4 speed transmission for my 86 Fiero SE ?
I looked at my car and I have a clutch spoon. I'll have to consult my Chilton Repair Manual.
How do I change out a clutch fork assembly on an (Isuzu) 4 speed transmission for my 86 Fiero SE ?
ther is a cross pin ,find it and the rest is easy.
excuse me , are You talking of the fork of the throwout bearing or the shifter fork.
if the shifter fork then You have to remove the upper plate in the tranny (four screws) that plate have the shifter knob in the center, then you gonna see the forks for the gears.
if is Your first time ,do not rust and look good in Your steps
i will stay in the line in case You ask more questions..
if You bring picture ,will be more easy....i am blind here You know?
Does anyone know about 98 Hyundai Accent the clutch pedal makes a grinding noise when pressed?
Whenever I change gears the clutch makes this noise like a swoosh all the while till get up off the pedal.
Does anyone know about 98 Hyundai Accent the clutch pedal makes a grinding noise when pressed?
It is the clutch, the Accent clutch is easy,any quality repair shop can perform this repair. good luck!
Does anyone know about 98 Hyundai Accent the clutch pedal makes a grinding noise when pressed?
you could need to check the hydrolic fluid in your clutch. I'd reccomend going to a mechanic.
Replace the clutch,pressure plate and the slave cylinder also the pilot bushing or bearing.
Its a Hyundai, Push it off a cliff and by a real car.
sounds like your Release Bearing is worn out, need to get it to a shop and have it checked out. Usually by the time that wears out you need a new clutch, also.
Does anyone know about 98 Hyundai Accent the clutch pedal makes a grinding noise when pressed?
It is the clutch, the Accent clutch is easy,any quality repair shop can perform this repair. good luck!
Does anyone know about 98 Hyundai Accent the clutch pedal makes a grinding noise when pressed?
you could need to check the hydrolic fluid in your clutch. I'd reccomend going to a mechanic.
Replace the clutch,pressure plate and the slave cylinder also the pilot bushing or bearing.
Its a Hyundai, Push it off a cliff and by a real car.
sounds like your Release Bearing is worn out, need to get it to a shop and have it checked out. Usually by the time that wears out you need a new clutch, also.
We're trying to figure out why our engagement point kept changing with our clutch. Please See Below for Story
We just had our master and slave cylinders replaced on our 93 Honda Accord clutch and over about 400 miles, the engagement point (and pedal) moved up and up to the point that the clutch no longer engaged. I was out of town and another mechanic adjusted the pedal (and engagement point?) so that I could return home (about 250 miles) and told me that my clutch was shot based on something the mechanic had done/not done. When I returned to the original mechanic, he could not find anything wrong with the clutch or the cylinders he replaced (he's done the tests recommended by the manufacturer at their direction). I have been using the car for the last few days and it has been working okay. Until we figure out what happened while I was on the road, we think it'll happen again. Any ideas??
We're trying to figure out why our engagement point kept changing with our clutch. Please See Below for Story
You don't adjust hydraulic master and slave clutches. You bleed them. What happened was when you had the clutch repaired about 400 miles ago, there was somehow an air pocket allowed to get in the system. This air pocket slowly but surely worked its way up to the master cylinder. When it made it to the master cylinder, your pedal no longer worked because when you depressed it, all you were doing was compressing the air pocket. The out of town mechanic %26quot;fixed%26quot; your clutch, he bled the system. This eliminated your air pocket, allowing the clutch to work again.
Too often, mechanic will tell you your clutch needs replace if ANYTHING goes wrong with it. Sorry, but this is a scam. A clutch has several components from where you push the pedal to where the clutch meets the flywheel. If anyone of these components fail, DESPITE what some mechanics would have you believe, then that component needs repaired or replaced, NOT the entire clutch system. The out of town guy told you this hoping you would, out of fear of complete clutch failure, tell him to replace it. This would have been more cash out of your pocket. Then, more than likely, he wouldn't have done nothing more than just what he'd already done but charged you for a new clutch.
As long as the clutch system is properly bled now, you should have no other problems. In defence of the original mechanic, it wasn't necessarily his fault either. A lot of clutch hydraulic systems, like yours, aren't supposed to need bleeding. You replace the whole sytem as a unit and run it. MOST times this is all that is needed. Every now and then though, you get a stubborn one that will need a little bleeding. This is usually caused by letting a little air in as you install the line between the master cylinder and slave cylinder. However, you never know this until usually 5-6 hundred miles later when the clutch pedal starts to get %26quot;soft%26quot;.
By the way, for future reference, if you had gone ahead and allowed the out of town mechanic to scam you, there is a little tip to prevent this that I've always advised people of (I done mechanic work thirteen years). ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, INSIST on getting your old parts back ANTIME a mechanic replaces ANYTHING. There are tons of shops out there that charge for replacing parts when they haven't replaced NOTHING. That is what caused me to go into business for myself. While working at a dealership, I wouldn't participate in scamming honest hard-working customers.
We're trying to figure out why our engagement point kept changing with our clutch. Please See Below for Story
My guess would be that the clutch, having less fluid to activate it, had been working its way out of adjustment, but you had not noticed it until you replaced the cylinders. Once full pressure was returned, the adjustment went out even quicker, causing falure.
What I am assuming your %26quot;temporary%26quot; mechanic said was something to the effect that the clutch should have been replaced when the cylinders had been. However, that does not always mean that the clutch is bad. If it is still working fine with the adjustment, I would just keep an eye on it in case it begins to get worse. Clutches do wear out after a while, and yours may be getting very worn, which may have aided in the cylinder going out. Continue driving it, but begin thinking that a clutch replacment %26quot;job%26quot; may be coming up in the future.
Hydraulic clutches aren't usually adjustable. The only adjustment is the height of the pedal and it doesn't really affect the clutch operation unless it is over adjusted, it would not do this on its own while driving. Sounds to me like the clutch is getting stuck or overheated.
I used to own a 300zx turbo, one day I went to go drive it, and I shifted down to go up a hill, and the clutch would not engage. I put it in neutral and pumped the clutch, and it came back and worked fine. Not sure why it did that, but I never had a problem with it after words.
Hydraulic brake and clutch systems, always always always, set themselves to the same spot by the use of a hole in the bottom of the reservoir.
When the pedal (brake or clutch) is not being depressed, the M/C piston retracts so that the fluid in the lines is in contact (via this hole) with the fluid in the reservoir. That's what the reservoir is there for, really.
Here's the problem: If this fails to happen, you may %26quot;pump up%26quot; the clutch or brakes and they won't be able to bleed back down. There are two ways this hole can fail: It can stop up, which doesn't tend to cause this problem, or it the piston can fail to retract far enough, which does cause the problem.
Since all that stuff had been taken apart recently by mechanic #1, you can be very sure that was the problem. The clutch M/C piston didn't fully retract.
We're trying to figure out why our engagement point kept changing with our clutch. Please See Below for Story
You don't adjust hydraulic master and slave clutches. You bleed them. What happened was when you had the clutch repaired about 400 miles ago, there was somehow an air pocket allowed to get in the system. This air pocket slowly but surely worked its way up to the master cylinder. When it made it to the master cylinder, your pedal no longer worked because when you depressed it, all you were doing was compressing the air pocket. The out of town mechanic %26quot;fixed%26quot; your clutch, he bled the system. This eliminated your air pocket, allowing the clutch to work again.
Too often, mechanic will tell you your clutch needs replace if ANYTHING goes wrong with it. Sorry, but this is a scam. A clutch has several components from where you push the pedal to where the clutch meets the flywheel. If anyone of these components fail, DESPITE what some mechanics would have you believe, then that component needs repaired or replaced, NOT the entire clutch system. The out of town guy told you this hoping you would, out of fear of complete clutch failure, tell him to replace it. This would have been more cash out of your pocket. Then, more than likely, he wouldn't have done nothing more than just what he'd already done but charged you for a new clutch.
As long as the clutch system is properly bled now, you should have no other problems. In defence of the original mechanic, it wasn't necessarily his fault either. A lot of clutch hydraulic systems, like yours, aren't supposed to need bleeding. You replace the whole sytem as a unit and run it. MOST times this is all that is needed. Every now and then though, you get a stubborn one that will need a little bleeding. This is usually caused by letting a little air in as you install the line between the master cylinder and slave cylinder. However, you never know this until usually 5-6 hundred miles later when the clutch pedal starts to get %26quot;soft%26quot;.
By the way, for future reference, if you had gone ahead and allowed the out of town mechanic to scam you, there is a little tip to prevent this that I've always advised people of (I done mechanic work thirteen years). ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, INSIST on getting your old parts back ANTIME a mechanic replaces ANYTHING. There are tons of shops out there that charge for replacing parts when they haven't replaced NOTHING. That is what caused me to go into business for myself. While working at a dealership, I wouldn't participate in scamming honest hard-working customers.
We're trying to figure out why our engagement point kept changing with our clutch. Please See Below for Story
My guess would be that the clutch, having less fluid to activate it, had been working its way out of adjustment, but you had not noticed it until you replaced the cylinders. Once full pressure was returned, the adjustment went out even quicker, causing falure.
What I am assuming your %26quot;temporary%26quot; mechanic said was something to the effect that the clutch should have been replaced when the cylinders had been. However, that does not always mean that the clutch is bad. If it is still working fine with the adjustment, I would just keep an eye on it in case it begins to get worse. Clutches do wear out after a while, and yours may be getting very worn, which may have aided in the cylinder going out. Continue driving it, but begin thinking that a clutch replacment %26quot;job%26quot; may be coming up in the future.
Hydraulic clutches aren't usually adjustable. The only adjustment is the height of the pedal and it doesn't really affect the clutch operation unless it is over adjusted, it would not do this on its own while driving. Sounds to me like the clutch is getting stuck or overheated.
I used to own a 300zx turbo, one day I went to go drive it, and I shifted down to go up a hill, and the clutch would not engage. I put it in neutral and pumped the clutch, and it came back and worked fine. Not sure why it did that, but I never had a problem with it after words.
Hydraulic brake and clutch systems, always always always, set themselves to the same spot by the use of a hole in the bottom of the reservoir.
When the pedal (brake or clutch) is not being depressed, the M/C piston retracts so that the fluid in the lines is in contact (via this hole) with the fluid in the reservoir. That's what the reservoir is there for, really.
Here's the problem: If this fails to happen, you may %26quot;pump up%26quot; the clutch or brakes and they won't be able to bleed back down. There are two ways this hole can fail: It can stop up, which doesn't tend to cause this problem, or it the piston can fail to retract far enough, which does cause the problem.
Since all that stuff had been taken apart recently by mechanic #1, you can be very sure that was the problem. The clutch M/C piston didn't fully retract.
My Ford Focus reverse gear sometimes get stuck and makes "Kkrrrrrr" noise,no matter how hard i push the clutch
its a %26quot;S%26quot; Reg , and it only makes that noise sometimes when i try to put it in reverse gear , what could be the reason ? and how much is it gonna cost me ? and can anyone tell me how much do they charge for changing gearbox and clutch plate including parts ????? what should i do ??
My Ford Focus reverse gear sometimes get stuck and makes %26quot;Kkrrrrrr%26quot; noise,no matter how hard i push the clutch
i dont know about a focus, but in many manual transmissions the reverse gear isnt synchonized. it would be totally normal for it to grind a bit when putting it in reverse.
if it is unusually difficult to get it in gear you might have a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder not disengaging the clutch completely. if this is the case it will be difficult to put it in 1st gear at a stop as well. 1st gear probably wont grind, just tough to get in gear.
My Ford Focus reverse gear sometimes get stuck and makes %26quot;Kkrrrrrr%26quot; noise,no matter how hard i push the clutch
Sounds like the syncro's, I would take it to a tranny shop and get an estimate
My Ford Focus reverse gear sometimes get stuck and makes %26quot;Kkrrrrrr%26quot; noise,no matter how hard i push the clutch
i dont know about a focus, but in many manual transmissions the reverse gear isnt synchonized. it would be totally normal for it to grind a bit when putting it in reverse.
if it is unusually difficult to get it in gear you might have a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder not disengaging the clutch completely. if this is the case it will be difficult to put it in 1st gear at a stop as well. 1st gear probably wont grind, just tough to get in gear.
My Ford Focus reverse gear sometimes get stuck and makes %26quot;Kkrrrrrr%26quot; noise,no matter how hard i push the clutch
Sounds like the syncro's, I would take it to a tranny shop and get an estimate
There is a shimmy in my clutch pedal now when i am changing gears. there is also a grinding sound in neutral.?
its a 98 jetta with 122k miles. the grinding sound goes away when i push in the clutch. is the clutch about to go?
There is a shimmy in my clutch pedal now when i am changing gears. there is also a grinding sound in neutral.?
Sounds like a bad input shaft bearing.
There is a shimmy in my clutch pedal now when i am changing gears. there is also a grinding sound in neutral.?
you need a new throw out bearing (pressure release bearing)
With 122k its about time for a new clutch, the shimmy is your clutch warped and the grinding could be Your throw out bearing. But it will only get worse. good luckkind of bad acne have you ever been afraid to
There is a shimmy in my clutch pedal now when i am changing gears. there is also a grinding sound in neutral.?
Sounds like a bad input shaft bearing.
There is a shimmy in my clutch pedal now when i am changing gears. there is also a grinding sound in neutral.?
you need a new throw out bearing (pressure release bearing)
With 122k its about time for a new clutch, the shimmy is your clutch warped and the grinding could be Your throw out bearing. But it will only get worse. good luck
Does any body know what is "FAN CLUTCH" and what is its job in bmw?
my bmw overheated couple days ago i brought it to a mechanic shop and he said the water pump leaking.i left the car there and the day after when i came there to pick up my car he said your fan clutch was damaged . he charged me 150 for changing the clutch and 250 for changing the water pump.but i don't know what is fan clutch.
Does any body know what is %26quot;FAN CLUTCH%26quot; and what is its job in bmw?
I'll try to explain. The belt turns the pulley on the front of the water pump, right? That's what pumps the coolant throughout your engine, heater, and radiator. Well right in front of that pulley is the fan clutch, then the fan is bolted to it.
When the engine is cool, it doesn't need the fan to spin at full speed, so the fan clutch allows it to spin freely. The fan will still spin a bit since it's not freespooling - just not locked up. If the engine is running and cold, you can hold the fan with your hand and make it stop spinning (Disclaimer: I don't recommend this). It takes some energy to turn the fast as fast as the engine due to the amount of air it's pushing, so it takes less energy (and, hence, gasoline) to run the engine without powering the fan.
There is a temperature-sensitive silicone-based fluid inside the fan clutch that gets thicker as the temperature goes up. So when the engine gets warmer, the fan clutch gradually becomes more resistant to spinning, so as the belt turns the water pump pulley, it's also turning the fan blade, sucking cool air through the radiator to keep your engine cool.
Does any body know what is %26quot;FAN CLUTCH%26quot; and what is its job in bmw?
Well since you didn't sat the model and year. You may or may not have been ripped off. If the clutch with the usual markup was worth say 140 bucks then no if it was the 100 clutch then yes. Model and year is important here. The fan clutch is removed anyways when a water pump job is done the only extra part is a few small bolts to bolt the clutch to the fan.
What a fan clutch does and how it works.
The fan clutch has silicone in it that reacts to temperature changes. A water pump pulley will spin at the same rate of speed as the engine does mostly there is a bit of RMP change with the pulleys sizes at the crank and at the water pump pulley. But its always the same. Now part of the fan clutch spins the same as the water pump but in the fan clutch there are bearings and the silicone I talked about earlier with this silicone in the clutch there is no solid mechanical connection from one side of the clutch to the other. The only connection is the bearings and the silicone. When the silicone is cold it is very watery but as it heats up if becomes thicker and thicker in turn creating a more solid connection as temperature goes up thus the fan clutch system begins to turn the fan with more force causing more and more air to be drawn thru the radiator removing heat from the coolant and blowing less hot air over the engine. This more solid connection never gets as strong as a true solid connection and you could if you wanted to stick your hand in the fan blade and not get hurt MUCH it may sting your finger a bit but no harm done.
Just like eric says the fan clutch is what the fan is mounted onto, this in turn is mounted to the drive of the water pump.
My guess from experience is that your mechanic had trouble getting it off and it got damaged but, if your engine has done a lot of miles then it is best all round that you have a new one anyway.
The clutch on your fan is a friction clutch device as it gats hot friction increases and your fan spins. Then when temps decrease the fan spins less.
Does any body know what is %26quot;FAN CLUTCH%26quot; and what is its job in bmw?
I'll try to explain. The belt turns the pulley on the front of the water pump, right? That's what pumps the coolant throughout your engine, heater, and radiator. Well right in front of that pulley is the fan clutch, then the fan is bolted to it.
When the engine is cool, it doesn't need the fan to spin at full speed, so the fan clutch allows it to spin freely. The fan will still spin a bit since it's not freespooling - just not locked up. If the engine is running and cold, you can hold the fan with your hand and make it stop spinning (Disclaimer: I don't recommend this). It takes some energy to turn the fast as fast as the engine due to the amount of air it's pushing, so it takes less energy (and, hence, gasoline) to run the engine without powering the fan.
There is a temperature-sensitive silicone-based fluid inside the fan clutch that gets thicker as the temperature goes up. So when the engine gets warmer, the fan clutch gradually becomes more resistant to spinning, so as the belt turns the water pump pulley, it's also turning the fan blade, sucking cool air through the radiator to keep your engine cool.
Does any body know what is %26quot;FAN CLUTCH%26quot; and what is its job in bmw?
Well since you didn't sat the model and year. You may or may not have been ripped off. If the clutch with the usual markup was worth say 140 bucks then no if it was the 100 clutch then yes. Model and year is important here. The fan clutch is removed anyways when a water pump job is done the only extra part is a few small bolts to bolt the clutch to the fan.
What a fan clutch does and how it works.
The fan clutch has silicone in it that reacts to temperature changes. A water pump pulley will spin at the same rate of speed as the engine does mostly there is a bit of RMP change with the pulleys sizes at the crank and at the water pump pulley. But its always the same. Now part of the fan clutch spins the same as the water pump but in the fan clutch there are bearings and the silicone I talked about earlier with this silicone in the clutch there is no solid mechanical connection from one side of the clutch to the other. The only connection is the bearings and the silicone. When the silicone is cold it is very watery but as it heats up if becomes thicker and thicker in turn creating a more solid connection as temperature goes up thus the fan clutch system begins to turn the fan with more force causing more and more air to be drawn thru the radiator removing heat from the coolant and blowing less hot air over the engine. This more solid connection never gets as strong as a true solid connection and you could if you wanted to stick your hand in the fan blade and not get hurt MUCH it may sting your finger a bit but no harm done.
Just like eric says the fan clutch is what the fan is mounted onto, this in turn is mounted to the drive of the water pump.
My guess from experience is that your mechanic had trouble getting it off and it got damaged but, if your engine has done a lot of miles then it is best all round that you have a new one anyway.
The clutch on your fan is a friction clutch device as it gats hot friction increases and your fan spins. Then when temps decrease the fan spins less.
How do you use a hydrolic clutch removal tool for an 89 Ford Ranger?
I am trying to change out the clutch in this vehicle and I can't figure out how to use this tool.
John
How do you use a hydrolic clutch removal tool for an 89 Ford Ranger?
Sorry never heard of a clutch removal tool.
Are you talking about changing the transmission clutch?
Remove the slave cylinder.
Remove the transmission.
Unbolt the pressure plate. Take off the pressure plate and clutch disk.
Remove the throwout bearing on the transmission shaft.
Place new throwout bearing on tranny shaft, making sure it's line up properly and engaged with the clutch fork.
Start the screws on the new pressure plate into the flywheel with the new clutch disk sandwiched between them.
Use a line up tool to line up the hole through the pressure plate, clutch disk and into the flywheel.
Try to put the tranny back in without knocking everything you just lined up out of place. If you do move the tranny back out of the way again, cuss it some more, then reallign everything again.
Get the tranny in place and bolt it up.
Reinstall the slave cylinder.
John
How do you use a hydrolic clutch removal tool for an 89 Ford Ranger?
Sorry never heard of a clutch removal tool.
Are you talking about changing the transmission clutch?
Remove the slave cylinder.
Remove the transmission.
Unbolt the pressure plate. Take off the pressure plate and clutch disk.
Remove the throwout bearing on the transmission shaft.
Place new throwout bearing on tranny shaft, making sure it's line up properly and engaged with the clutch fork.
Start the screws on the new pressure plate into the flywheel with the new clutch disk sandwiched between them.
Use a line up tool to line up the hole through the pressure plate, clutch disk and into the flywheel.
Try to put the tranny back in without knocking everything you just lined up out of place. If you do move the tranny back out of the way again, cuss it some more, then reallign everything again.
Get the tranny in place and bolt it up.
Reinstall the slave cylinder.
98 fiesta over revving when changing gear or clutch pressed in?
hi, i have a 98 fiesta 1.3l encore. it is over revving when the clutch is pressed in but it doesnt do it all the time. it seems to do it when i rev the engine e.g moving up a hill in traffic. when i turn the engine off and start it back up it will clear and might not do it again for the whole day. i had a problem with one of the sensors which i was told it was the %26quot;lamba%26quot; sensor so i sprayed some wd40 in it to try and clear it which it did but ever since then the problem of the engine over revving started! id appreciate any help. thanks!
98 fiesta over revving when changing gear or clutch pressed in?
sounds like your air idle control
98 fiesta over revving when changing gear or clutch pressed in?
There is an electronic idle valve sensor on the speedo drive on top of the gearbox that makes the engine rev when travelling. This will be faulty. They are expensive to replace take it in and have it disconnected.
The cars just over 10yrs old, time for a new one i think.
98 fiesta over revving when changing gear or clutch pressed in?
sounds like your air idle control
98 fiesta over revving when changing gear or clutch pressed in?
There is an electronic idle valve sensor on the speedo drive on top of the gearbox that makes the engine rev when travelling. This will be faulty. They are expensive to replace take it in and have it disconnected.
The cars just over 10yrs old, time for a new one i think.
I just replaced the clutch on my 1996 Ford F-150. After installing it the clutch will not engage when running.
Before I change the clutch, It was making a loud strange noise. Bad enough that you could not run the AC. Thats how I came up with the clutch problem. The new clutch went in fine and looks to be running true. I tried to add some freon but the system really doesn't want to take any. I did disconnect the high side hose while instaling the clutch and lost quiet a lot of freon.Why want the clutch engage???
I just replaced the clutch on my 1996 Ford F-150. After installing it the clutch will not engage when running.
1996 should have R-134 instead of Freon (R-12). There is a pressure switch that will not allow the compressor to turn with low pressure. When you released the refrigerant, the A/C lost pressure and opened the switch circuit.
You need to have the A/C recharged.
You'll probably want to add a little bit of oil to the system (A/C oil, for R-134 I think it's PAG). You'll need to vacuum the system down, many parts stores rent these vacuum pumps. Once the system is evacuated, you'll need to start adding back the refrigerant. There may be a tag under the hood stating the amount it takes.
You should be able to put in at least one to one and a half cans into the system on the suction side. You can then wait and let the system equilize.
Start the pickup turn on the A/C and see if it starts cycling. If so, then continue adding the refrigerant until the proper amount is in the system. You may need to by pass the pressure switch (i.e., jumper the switch to activate the compressor) so the system will start sucking in refrigerant.
There are some R-134 kits that have gauges to indicate pressures within the system, you'll want to check the system to make sure you don't overcharge it.
Or take it to a shop and have it charged up.
I just replaced the clutch on my 1996 Ford F-150. After installing it the clutch will not engage when running.
could be electrical
Depends on how much freon you added back in. When you pulled the hose off, you lost most if not all your freon. One can won't do it. Theres a low pressure cutout switch in most new systems that shuts down the compressor to prevent damage when the freon runs low. Add two more cans and see what happens. It may take a while until the compressor starts running when it senses some pressure. And it will cut in and out as it charges. Also, just for giggles, make sure that the you put the plug back on the clutch. Hey, mistakes happen to the best of us.
And for safety, make sure you hook the can to the LOW pressure side and wear safety glasses. Hook it on the high side and the can will blowup in your hand. Be safe and good luck.
If you removed the hose you lost the system charge. You will need to pull the system into a vacuum for a minimum of 30 mins. and recharge the system with the proper amount of freon. It would also be wise to add oil to the system before charging. The clutch will not engauge if the system pressure is low (low pressure switch on accumulator) and it will not work properly if you just try to charge freon into the system with air and it could even damage the system. You also need to make sure the clutch coil was replaced and the cltch gap is correct.
bleed the clutch now
I just replaced the clutch on my 1996 Ford F-150. After installing it the clutch will not engage when running.
1996 should have R-134 instead of Freon (R-12). There is a pressure switch that will not allow the compressor to turn with low pressure. When you released the refrigerant, the A/C lost pressure and opened the switch circuit.
You need to have the A/C recharged.
You'll probably want to add a little bit of oil to the system (A/C oil, for R-134 I think it's PAG). You'll need to vacuum the system down, many parts stores rent these vacuum pumps. Once the system is evacuated, you'll need to start adding back the refrigerant. There may be a tag under the hood stating the amount it takes.
You should be able to put in at least one to one and a half cans into the system on the suction side. You can then wait and let the system equilize.
Start the pickup turn on the A/C and see if it starts cycling. If so, then continue adding the refrigerant until the proper amount is in the system. You may need to by pass the pressure switch (i.e., jumper the switch to activate the compressor) so the system will start sucking in refrigerant.
There are some R-134 kits that have gauges to indicate pressures within the system, you'll want to check the system to make sure you don't overcharge it.
Or take it to a shop and have it charged up.
I just replaced the clutch on my 1996 Ford F-150. After installing it the clutch will not engage when running.
could be electrical
Depends on how much freon you added back in. When you pulled the hose off, you lost most if not all your freon. One can won't do it. Theres a low pressure cutout switch in most new systems that shuts down the compressor to prevent damage when the freon runs low. Add two more cans and see what happens. It may take a while until the compressor starts running when it senses some pressure. And it will cut in and out as it charges. Also, just for giggles, make sure that the you put the plug back on the clutch. Hey, mistakes happen to the best of us.
And for safety, make sure you hook the can to the LOW pressure side and wear safety glasses. Hook it on the high side and the can will blowup in your hand. Be safe and good luck.
If you removed the hose you lost the system charge. You will need to pull the system into a vacuum for a minimum of 30 mins. and recharge the system with the proper amount of freon. It would also be wise to add oil to the system before charging. The clutch will not engauge if the system pressure is low (low pressure switch on accumulator) and it will not work properly if you just try to charge freon into the system with air and it could even damage the system. You also need to make sure the clutch coil was replaced and the cltch gap is correct.
bleed the clutch now
When should I change the clutch cylinder for my 1992 acura integra car? more details provided.?
The mileage is 150,000 km. Within two weeks I start to hear a squeezing sound when I push down the clutch pedal. So far I didn't feel the slips of the clutch pedal. My friends told me that it is the time to change the clutch. Since the cost of the labor is more expensive than purchasing the parts I wonder if it is a good idea to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders the same time when I change the clutch. In this case, I don't need to worry abou the clutch part in the future. Any good ideas?
When should I change the clutch cylinder for my 1992 acura integra car? more details provided.?
If the clutch fails, it will be gradual and it will give you lots more signs. If it fails completely it will not damage anything else. I would just wait and be sure it neads to be changed.
For the master cylinder, just leave it alone... The master cylinder is allways easily accessible so you won't save any labor by doing it at the same time as the clutch. Slave cylinder, I dont know... If it's accessible without removing the tranny, then leave it alone until it fail. If the slave is INSIDE the tranny, then have the mechanic inspect it. A good mechanic will know the answer to that.
When should I change the clutch cylinder for my 1992 acura integra car? more details provided.?
Yes change the whole clutch. I have a 1990 Civic hatch, it has 219,000km and I changed my clutch a LONG time ago. Dont mess with the small stuff just change the whole thing.
If what you are hearing is squeezing and dont feel any kind of slipp or trouble changing gears try to lubricate every flexible part of the clutch system. First go simple ther is no need to change your clutch if you have no slipp or trouble with the gear if you are still planing to keep youre car few more years you should change the master and the slave. But if youre planing to change the car just change the clutch plate.
the sqeul is most likeliy the throw out bearing and you should have that changed but while your there you should get the clutch and presure plate changed scince your right the any was and with that many miles it wont be long b4 you have 2 any was and that way you could get anther 150000 miles out of the clutch and carsoftware delegates
When should I change the clutch cylinder for my 1992 acura integra car? more details provided.?
If the clutch fails, it will be gradual and it will give you lots more signs. If it fails completely it will not damage anything else. I would just wait and be sure it neads to be changed.
For the master cylinder, just leave it alone... The master cylinder is allways easily accessible so you won't save any labor by doing it at the same time as the clutch. Slave cylinder, I dont know... If it's accessible without removing the tranny, then leave it alone until it fail. If the slave is INSIDE the tranny, then have the mechanic inspect it. A good mechanic will know the answer to that.
When should I change the clutch cylinder for my 1992 acura integra car? more details provided.?
Yes change the whole clutch. I have a 1990 Civic hatch, it has 219,000km and I changed my clutch a LONG time ago. Dont mess with the small stuff just change the whole thing.
If what you are hearing is squeezing and dont feel any kind of slipp or trouble changing gears try to lubricate every flexible part of the clutch system. First go simple ther is no need to change your clutch if you have no slipp or trouble with the gear if you are still planing to keep youre car few more years you should change the master and the slave. But if youre planing to change the car just change the clutch plate.
the sqeul is most likeliy the throw out bearing and you should have that changed but while your there you should get the clutch and presure plate changed scince your right the any was and with that many miles it wont be long b4 you have 2 any was and that way you could get anther 150000 miles out of the clutch and car
Whats up with my clutch?
my biting point is right at the top of the gear peddle,is it on its way out? can I get away with just changing the clutch cable or do I have to change the whole thing?
Whats up with my clutch?
Sounds like a simple cable adjustment. When it wears out, that would not be symptom
Whats up with my clutch?
sounds like you need a new cable
best change to an automatic
its really hard to diagnose from here,sounds like its going though.I would have the adj, on the cable checked,it might be stretched and getting ready to break.good luck
Hey Jen, that what you get when you pay what was it 拢150? : )
It's probably just the cable, but really, really, go and get it checked by a professional; that's NOT the sort of thing you want to trust us lot on, especailly if you're on a motorway when it snaps!
You will only need a new cable by the sounds of it.
If there are no dodgy noises coming when you accelerate in each gear then the main mechanism is fine.
You may even get away with adjusting rather than replacing the cable!
Find where the clutch cable goes into the engine bay and you should find a piece of threaded metal with a couple of bolts on.
You can adjust the clutch biting point here. Adjust one way to see whether you lose the clutch, if you do, adjust it the other way and see if the biting point lowers.
It may not work but if it does you'll get a lot more life out of it.
:~}
Good Luck!
Hi Jennie
sounds like you need a new clutch cable. Shouldn't cost too much and takes only a short time to do.
when your engine is warm and running ,,put on all of the brakes,,and let the clutch out with the gears in first,, slowly,, if the car stalls strait away
the clutch is said to be good,, if the engine keeps turning over,, even for a moment or two then the clutch plates are worn and need replacing
It does sound like ur clutch is about to give up, sorry to give u bad news. But without seeing the car I cannot be 100% sure. Cables do stretch and can cause allsorts of probs, get ur car checked by a friend who is mechanicaly minded.
SOME CARS HAVE AN ADJUSTMENT ON THE CABLE,IF YOURS HAS YOU WILL FIND IT UNDER THE BONNET USUALY ABOVE THE GEARBOX,YOU NEED TO SLACKEN THE TENSION ON THE CABLE,YOUR CLUTCH WILL LAST MUCH LONGER,IF YOU HAVE A HYDROLIC CLUTCH YOU USUALY FIND THERE IS NO ADJUSTMENT,SO THE CLUTCH NEEDS REPLACING
The cable will be just needing adjusted!!!
i own a repair shop,and id try having it adjusted first,,it might be able to get some more life from it,,other wise when they do this it usually means its worn out in it and will need to be replaced,,good luck i hope this help,s.,,PS the clutch and pressure plate may need changed in it,,good luck.
If you have an adjustable cable then an adjustment is all you need. If it isn't, or hydraulic, the clutch is nearer the end of it's life.
OK can we start with finding out make and model so we know what the hell we are talking about
probablly needing a new cable jennie . could you tell us a bit more about the car as some have self adjusters like the older fords on the clutch pedal and they used to be bad for stripping the teeth on the adjuster .not to sure about the newer ones . does the pedal ever go straight to the floor with hardly any pressure required ?.
new clutch, if it was ok it should sit level with brake pedel
Whats up with my clutch?
Sounds like a simple cable adjustment. When it wears out, that would not be symptom
Whats up with my clutch?
sounds like you need a new cable
best change to an automatic
its really hard to diagnose from here,sounds like its going though.I would have the adj, on the cable checked,it might be stretched and getting ready to break.good luck
Hey Jen, that what you get when you pay what was it 拢150? : )
It's probably just the cable, but really, really, go and get it checked by a professional; that's NOT the sort of thing you want to trust us lot on, especailly if you're on a motorway when it snaps!
You will only need a new cable by the sounds of it.
If there are no dodgy noises coming when you accelerate in each gear then the main mechanism is fine.
You may even get away with adjusting rather than replacing the cable!
Find where the clutch cable goes into the engine bay and you should find a piece of threaded metal with a couple of bolts on.
You can adjust the clutch biting point here. Adjust one way to see whether you lose the clutch, if you do, adjust it the other way and see if the biting point lowers.
It may not work but if it does you'll get a lot more life out of it.
:~}
Good Luck!
Hi Jennie
sounds like you need a new clutch cable. Shouldn't cost too much and takes only a short time to do.
when your engine is warm and running ,,put on all of the brakes,,and let the clutch out with the gears in first,, slowly,, if the car stalls strait away
the clutch is said to be good,, if the engine keeps turning over,, even for a moment or two then the clutch plates are worn and need replacing
It does sound like ur clutch is about to give up, sorry to give u bad news. But without seeing the car I cannot be 100% sure. Cables do stretch and can cause allsorts of probs, get ur car checked by a friend who is mechanicaly minded.
SOME CARS HAVE AN ADJUSTMENT ON THE CABLE,IF YOURS HAS YOU WILL FIND IT UNDER THE BONNET USUALY ABOVE THE GEARBOX,YOU NEED TO SLACKEN THE TENSION ON THE CABLE,YOUR CLUTCH WILL LAST MUCH LONGER,IF YOU HAVE A HYDROLIC CLUTCH YOU USUALY FIND THERE IS NO ADJUSTMENT,SO THE CLUTCH NEEDS REPLACING
The cable will be just needing adjusted!!!
i own a repair shop,and id try having it adjusted first,,it might be able to get some more life from it,,other wise when they do this it usually means its worn out in it and will need to be replaced,,good luck i hope this help,s.,,PS the clutch and pressure plate may need changed in it,,good luck.
If you have an adjustable cable then an adjustment is all you need. If it isn't, or hydraulic, the clutch is nearer the end of it's life.
OK can we start with finding out make and model so we know what the hell we are talking about
probablly needing a new cable jennie . could you tell us a bit more about the car as some have self adjusters like the older fords on the clutch pedal and they used to be bad for stripping the teeth on the adjuster .not to sure about the newer ones . does the pedal ever go straight to the floor with hardly any pressure required ?.
new clutch, if it was ok it should sit level with brake pedel
I have a 95 honda prelude i changed the clutch master cylinder and now i have no clutch pressure what so ever?
anyone know how to get the pressure back?
I have a 95 honda prelude i changed the clutch master cylinder and now i have no clutch pressure what so ever?
this is normal- it takes a while to get any fluid out. do this- pump the pedal 10-15 times with your hand, as you'll need to pull it back up at first. hold it down, and have a helper open the bleeder screw. tighten the screw. keep repeating this, until nothing but clear fluid comes out. may take 20 or more times of doing this if all the fluid drained out.
I have a 95 honda prelude i changed the clutch master cylinder and now i have no clutch pressure what so ever?
did you bleed it?
check your clutch fluid
I have a 95 honda prelude i changed the clutch master cylinder and now i have no clutch pressure what so ever?
this is normal- it takes a while to get any fluid out. do this- pump the pedal 10-15 times with your hand, as you'll need to pull it back up at first. hold it down, and have a helper open the bleeder screw. tighten the screw. keep repeating this, until nothing but clear fluid comes out. may take 20 or more times of doing this if all the fluid drained out.
I have a 95 honda prelude i changed the clutch master cylinder and now i have no clutch pressure what so ever?
did you bleed it?
check your clutch fluid
Ford Mondeo V6 ST24 W reg. Revving on its own when clutch down when braking and changing gear.?
When you turn the engine on its fine, after a few miles when its warm and you brake for a junction the revs start going up steadily on their own. Plus when you change gear, up/down its starts again no matter what speed or gear you are in. Basically when ever you de-press the clutch i starts revving up to about 3000rpm.
Ford Mondeo V6 ST24 W reg. Revving on its own when clutch down when braking and changing gear.?
have seen this problem before. as timbo rightly says, check for leaks on pipewprk first. next, check throttle body for wear, as, believe it or not, they do wear out. also, oddly, check oil levels, as too much oil can and does cause 'hydraulicing', or simplisticly, over revving,as the pistons 'bounce'off the excess oil in the sump, caused by the end bearings being clogged with sticky goo in the sump as the pressure caused by overfilling breaks down the oil molecules reducing viscocity.also check that the a.m.s. or air mass sensor is not faulty. as this also causes over revving at times.lastly, get the ecu checked out .
Ford Mondeo V6 ST24 W reg. Revving on its own when clutch down when braking and changing gear.?
Check the air intake pipework for leakage between the filter box and the throttle body.
Ford Mondeo V6 ST24 W reg. Revving on its own when clutch down when braking and changing gear.?
have seen this problem before. as timbo rightly says, check for leaks on pipewprk first. next, check throttle body for wear, as, believe it or not, they do wear out. also, oddly, check oil levels, as too much oil can and does cause 'hydraulicing', or simplisticly, over revving,as the pistons 'bounce'off the excess oil in the sump, caused by the end bearings being clogged with sticky goo in the sump as the pressure caused by overfilling breaks down the oil molecules reducing viscocity.also check that the a.m.s. or air mass sensor is not faulty. as this also causes over revving at times.lastly, get the ecu checked out .
Ford Mondeo V6 ST24 W reg. Revving on its own when clutch down when braking and changing gear.?
Check the air intake pipework for leakage between the filter box and the throttle body.
The quality of gear change on my 82 Porsche 924 is poor. What are possible causes?
It does not slot into second as fluidly and smoothly as it should, and I feel a slight grating (no sound but a vibration through my hand) when changing up to third. No problems with downshifts. The car has done 75 000 miles and has not had gearbox oil or clutch changed ever. Clutch does not slip. Are there simple, cheap fixes that I could try, before contemplating a big gearbox repair?
The quality of gear change on my 82 Porsche 924 is poor. What are possible causes?
Alison I would try some royal purple for transmission, this is some good stuff, read the reviews! I also like the motor oil!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_n鈥?/a>
The quality of gear change on my 82 Porsche 924 is poor. What are possible causes?
Alison I would try some royal purple for transmission, this is some good stuff, read the reviews! I also like the motor oil!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_n鈥?/a>
The quality of gear change on my 82 Porsche 924 is poor. What are possible causes?
It does not slot into second as fluidly and smoothly as it should, and I feel a slight grating (no sound but a vibration through my hand) when changing up to third. No problems with downshifts. The car has done 75 000 miles and has not had gearbox oil or clutch changed ever. Clutch does not slip. Are there simple, cheap fixes that I could try, before contemplating a big gearbox repair?
The quality of gear change on my 82 Porsche 924 is poor. What are possible causes?
Your problem is in the transmission! The solution is to take it to a Porsche dealership for transmission service. A simple, cheap fix you might try is to change the oil in the transmission.
The quality of gear change on my 82 Porsche 924 is poor. What are possible causes?
Is there a leak from the box? Have it checked.
As a last resort if it is filled, change it to a Mobil Synthetic Hypoid oil for manual tranny's. Works like magic in a 915 trannyMaking my own duvet cover how long should i wait
The quality of gear change on my 82 Porsche 924 is poor. What are possible causes?
Your problem is in the transmission! The solution is to take it to a Porsche dealership for transmission service. A simple, cheap fix you might try is to change the oil in the transmission.
The quality of gear change on my 82 Porsche 924 is poor. What are possible causes?
Is there a leak from the box? Have it checked.
As a last resort if it is filled, change it to a Mobil Synthetic Hypoid oil for manual tranny's. Works like magic in a 915 tranny
Why does my bike engine accelerate when I pull in clutch to change gear? Cables sorted.?
The revs build up when I'm riding and changing gear, but not when I test it on high tick over.
Why does my bike engine accelerate when I pull in clutch to change gear? Cables sorted.?
When you pull in the clutch you are taking the load off the engine, thus it revs up. This is the reason you back off the throttle when you pull in the clutch. I have no idea what a %26quot;High tick over%26quot; is.
Why does my bike engine accelerate when I pull in clutch to change gear? Cables sorted.?
When your clutch is out, your engine is attached to the road (via your wheels) slowing it down. It wants to rev faster, but is being held back.
When you pull your clutch in, it is no longer attached to the road, wheels or anything and so it is free to rev faster. Let go of your clutch again and is slows down again.
Try throttling back a little during changes to even out the revs. It will be much kinder on your bike over time and will lengthen the life of your clutch ;o)
If your throttle cable is stretched it may not be going back to idle and when your clutch is in, the sudden release of pressure when your clutch is disengaged it causes the rev up.~~
I assume you are a novice rider. When you pull the clutch in while you are riding along, the load is taken off the engine and so the speed of the engine will increase, this is normal. So when you pull the clutch in to change gear you have to ease the throttle down at the same time to prevent this. If you are stationery and pull the clutch in it will not make any effect as the engine is not under load through the gear train.
check your transmission clutches as per your workshop manual, seems a likely cause
Let off the gas and pull in clutch at the same time. You must be board shifting.
what does the low tick over test result show?
Why does my bike engine accelerate when I pull in clutch to change gear? Cables sorted.?
When you pull in the clutch you are taking the load off the engine, thus it revs up. This is the reason you back off the throttle when you pull in the clutch. I have no idea what a %26quot;High tick over%26quot; is.
Why does my bike engine accelerate when I pull in clutch to change gear? Cables sorted.?
When your clutch is out, your engine is attached to the road (via your wheels) slowing it down. It wants to rev faster, but is being held back.
When you pull your clutch in, it is no longer attached to the road, wheels or anything and so it is free to rev faster. Let go of your clutch again and is slows down again.
Try throttling back a little during changes to even out the revs. It will be much kinder on your bike over time and will lengthen the life of your clutch ;o)
If your throttle cable is stretched it may not be going back to idle and when your clutch is in, the sudden release of pressure when your clutch is disengaged it causes the rev up.~~
I assume you are a novice rider. When you pull the clutch in while you are riding along, the load is taken off the engine and so the speed of the engine will increase, this is normal. So when you pull the clutch in to change gear you have to ease the throttle down at the same time to prevent this. If you are stationery and pull the clutch in it will not make any effect as the engine is not under load through the gear train.
check your transmission clutches as per your workshop manual, seems a likely cause
Let off the gas and pull in clutch at the same time. You must be board shifting.
what does the low tick over test result show?
How much would it cost for a honest mechanic to change the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder?
1990 honda prelude
How much would it cost for a honest mechanic to change the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder?
Lots!! Hondas are not that easy to work on,especially that age.Plus the cost of parts!Maybe its time to find a better vehicle.Good luck.Realistically thinking slave cylinder 6 to 8 hrs at whatever your shops labour rate,master : 2 to 3 hrs.maybe less
How much would it cost for a honest mechanic to change the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder?
have you priced out the parts? couple of hours work tops,, that is about 150 bucks, if 75 dollars a hour labor,
2hrs labor plus parts
How much would it cost for a honest mechanic to change the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder?
Lots!! Hondas are not that easy to work on,especially that age.Plus the cost of parts!Maybe its time to find a better vehicle.Good luck.Realistically thinking slave cylinder 6 to 8 hrs at whatever your shops labour rate,master : 2 to 3 hrs.maybe less
How much would it cost for a honest mechanic to change the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder?
have you priced out the parts? couple of hours work tops,, that is about 150 bucks, if 75 dollars a hour labor,
2hrs labor plus parts
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)