started little by little. No visible signs of leaks. Could it be the cylinder that operates the clutch inside the housing? I'm going through about a half of reservoir every two weeks. Is it time to have it rebuilt and have the clutch changed out while they are in there?
1995 ford ranger loosing clutch fluid?
there is a master cylinder and slave cylinder master is near brake fluid reservoir and the slave is part of the throw out bearing if you can't see leak one of two possible area's leaking at slave its going all over the clutch or if its the master it even could be going in the truck under the carpet so if you're going to get clutch done have both master and slave done at same time
1995 ford ranger loosing clutch fluid?
If there's no visible signs of leakage then it must the slave cylinder inside the bell housing. As far as replacing the clutch, if it's a 95 it must have quite a few miles on it by now. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Will having a larger boresize in my master clutch cylinder make it harder to push down on the clutch pedal?
As a follow up on my previous question. On changing the master clutch assembly of my mistubishi pajero (manual trans)
Will having a large boresize make it harder to press on the clutch pedal? And vice-versa to a smaller boresize?
After replacing the master clutch assembly, it seemed to make my clutch so much harder. I am not certain if this is just because the assembly is new or if the bore size made a difference.
Will having a larger boresize in my master clutch cylinder make it harder to push down on the clutch pedal?
Larger bore will make it HARDER to push down. Newness has no effect. The pressure plate may feel different, especially if it was called heavy duty and had heavier springs.
Will having a larger boresize in my master clutch cylinder make it harder to push down on the clutch pedal?
No difference in bore size, but how is the clutch fluid in it?...
that could be the cause, if you put too much or too little in the new clutch, than you'll have resistance, also, did you get the air out of the new one?
Larger bore size pushes a greater volume of fluid through the same size lines - result will be a shorter stroke but will require greater force to move the slave piston . A smaller bore requires less force but longer stroke to move the slave. Newness may make it only slightly stiffer than before.
If you also replaced the pressure plate, this will contribute, the larger bore should actually make it easier... did you change the spring on the clutch pedal assy as well?cat advice for avoiding violations
Will having a large boresize make it harder to press on the clutch pedal? And vice-versa to a smaller boresize?
After replacing the master clutch assembly, it seemed to make my clutch so much harder. I am not certain if this is just because the assembly is new or if the bore size made a difference.
Will having a larger boresize in my master clutch cylinder make it harder to push down on the clutch pedal?
Larger bore will make it HARDER to push down. Newness has no effect. The pressure plate may feel different, especially if it was called heavy duty and had heavier springs.
Will having a larger boresize in my master clutch cylinder make it harder to push down on the clutch pedal?
No difference in bore size, but how is the clutch fluid in it?...
that could be the cause, if you put too much or too little in the new clutch, than you'll have resistance, also, did you get the air out of the new one?
Larger bore size pushes a greater volume of fluid through the same size lines - result will be a shorter stroke but will require greater force to move the slave piston . A smaller bore requires less force but longer stroke to move the slave. Newness may make it only slightly stiffer than before.
If you also replaced the pressure plate, this will contribute, the larger bore should actually make it easier... did you change the spring on the clutch pedal assy as well?
Why is my clutch pedal still stuck to the floor after i changed the clutch master and slave cylinder?
i have a 1988 944s porsche. and a few months ago my pedal stayed to the floor instead of coming back up. so i changed the clutch master and slave cylinder. i bled it right and everything. and the spring is still good for the clutch pedal.
Why is my clutch pedal still stuck to the floor after i changed the clutch master and slave cylinder?
If the master,slave cylinder and lickage is all good then I would look internally. It sounds like the springs on the pressure plate might be shot, and w/ that you usually change the clutch and throw-out bearing and other related things so it might cost a lil.
Why is my clutch pedal still stuck to the floor after i changed the clutch master and slave cylinder?
you've already asked....and we answered. re-bleed.
Bleed them.
Why is my clutch pedal still stuck to the floor after i changed the clutch master and slave cylinder?
If the master,slave cylinder and lickage is all good then I would look internally. It sounds like the springs on the pressure plate might be shot, and w/ that you usually change the clutch and throw-out bearing and other related things so it might cost a lil.
Why is my clutch pedal still stuck to the floor after i changed the clutch master and slave cylinder?
you've already asked....and we answered. re-bleed.
Bleed them.
When changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?
I just bought a manual transmission car and I got 1 hour lesson from a driving school just to understand the basics. The instructor said when in first gear, I have to release the clutch slowly and apply gas at the same time to keep the rev constant. However when changing from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd, he said to release the clutch slowly all the way and THEN apply the gas...is this true? After doing some reading, it seems whenever you need to shift, you should release the clutch and apply some gas at the same time.
Also, how do you rev match? How do you know what the rev should be compared to how fast you're going?
When changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?
To Take off you need to apply a little gas simultaneously as you slowly relase the clutch pedal
on shifting gears once you're moving this isn't so critical ... the vehicle won't stall or stop... but if not done right or exactly smooth you may get a little lurch or buck out of it until you get the timing and fell of it down...
when it comes time to shift from first to second and so forth you will be cruising along at a semi steady speed then you push ths clutch pedal down move to a new gear and as you begin to release you will add just a very slight pressure more to the gas...
this will sort of feather (smooth out) the transidion from one gear to the next for acceleration...
with practice you will get a feel for this...take a ride with an an experiended manual transmission driver
and have them drive your vehicle while mostly all you do is watch their coordination of clutch shift lever and the gas... it isn't that complex of a dance to learn...
pay attention to how they accelration shift and decekeration shift and come to a stop...
then go to a hill and wath how the brake, clutch and the gas are simultaneously coordinated for starting out on a hill without rolling backward..
My first car was a 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner at 15 but I had learned to drive a manual transmission by 13
hang in there and go practice you'll get it
Walt
When changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?
NO!! your vehicale will stall, or you will pop the clutch
It's better to release the clutch almost completely before hitting the gas again so you won't burn the clutch out. Your best bet would be to shift when the r's are between 2 and 25.
Both of them are about right. They go pretty much in sync. When shifting gears try to be precise and avoid leaving your foot on the clutch too long. It will wear it out and it can be pretty expensive.
And depends if you're driving fast or slow but try to keep the revs at about 2,000-4,000 and you should always be around the powerband and not waste gas. Of course, it depends on the car. In my car you only start getting power after 6,500rpm. :D
It is true ... you have to always maintain some gas because if you don't you are bound to stall the engine , you can play with the clutch allot more frequent , what is critical is maintaining the rpm of the engine , or maintaining the engine alive . Don%26quot;t worry about matching your rpm with your car speed , for one is common sense not to over rev your engine unnecessarily , idle engine usually is 600 rpm .and a comfortable top rpm 3500rpm before shifting or some what less you have to practice and feel comfortable .
its hard to explain but easy to show. Well its all about the speed of letting go the clutch while pressing the gas, basically in first gear you let go of clutch very smoothly and slow but when you shift from 4th to 5th you can drop the clutch and press gas, so the higher gear to shift in, less clutch you have to burn.
Yes but %26quot;sloooooly' release the clutch while feeding a constant 1,000 rpm's until the the clutch is totally released. Push the gas petal till the tachometer reads 2,000 rpm. Do the same thing till you shift to high gear.
Your driver teacher must own a clutch company because you'll use it up by constantly slipping the clutch.
rev match? you will get the feel for it over time. but for now your ears will tell you when things dont match. he's right about starting out. you will get the feel for that also. it doesnt take long. soon you will be able to take off from a stop sign ,at the top of a steep hill. but try to avoid steep streets for awhile.
when going %26quot;up%26quot; through the gears? you only need depressing the clutch just enough to allow the trans to %26quot;slip%26quot; into the next gear.better to be off the gas completely for that moment of change from one gear to the next.most clutchs become fully %26quot;disengaged%26quot; long before the pedal hits the floor.
rev match I think what your asking . would be more related to down shifting. lets say your going 60 mph in 5th if you try to downshift to 2nd your rear tires will lock up because the engine should be at idle because your foot is off the gas.try to avoid making that mistake.but it happens easier than you might think. when down shifting you want to bring the engine back to near the rpm it was before you %26quot; engage%26quot; the clutch after making shift to next lower gear.
you will also learn quickly to depress the clutch all the way right before coming to a stop.or the car will stall everytime
gas is way expensive these days. you will sound cool.but no need to add gas during up shift. complicated as to why. but it has to do with ratios of gears, power to weight ratio of vehical and inertia.or speed of car in motion.
all a clutch does is separate the engine from the trans
just long enough to %26quot;slip%26quot; into the next gear.
%26quot;slipping%26quot; is what makes it all work like it should.
when your clutch starts to slip without you wanting it to?
its time to replace the old clutch with new. the componets that make a clutch work are very much like brake pads or shoes.so the easier you are on it. the longer it will last.
try to avoid congested freeways untill you have driven it for awhile.stop and go traffic hard on a clutch for inexperienced manule trans drivers.but it can be done without harming anything .once you have the hang of it.
you can where out a clutch in a few hours by resting your foot on it while driving. the only times you should ever touch it? starting and stopping/ up and down normal shifting.
driving with a clutch is the fun way to do it. once you have done it for awhile. you wont even have to think about it.
good luck drive carefully and have fun ...........E
Also, how do you rev match? How do you know what the rev should be compared to how fast you're going?
When changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?
To Take off you need to apply a little gas simultaneously as you slowly relase the clutch pedal
on shifting gears once you're moving this isn't so critical ... the vehicle won't stall or stop... but if not done right or exactly smooth you may get a little lurch or buck out of it until you get the timing and fell of it down...
when it comes time to shift from first to second and so forth you will be cruising along at a semi steady speed then you push ths clutch pedal down move to a new gear and as you begin to release you will add just a very slight pressure more to the gas...
this will sort of feather (smooth out) the transidion from one gear to the next for acceleration...
with practice you will get a feel for this...take a ride with an an experiended manual transmission driver
and have them drive your vehicle while mostly all you do is watch their coordination of clutch shift lever and the gas... it isn't that complex of a dance to learn...
pay attention to how they accelration shift and decekeration shift and come to a stop...
then go to a hill and wath how the brake, clutch and the gas are simultaneously coordinated for starting out on a hill without rolling backward..
My first car was a 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner at 15 but I had learned to drive a manual transmission by 13
hang in there and go practice you'll get it
Walt
When changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?
NO!! your vehicale will stall, or you will pop the clutch
It's better to release the clutch almost completely before hitting the gas again so you won't burn the clutch out. Your best bet would be to shift when the r's are between 2 and 25.
Both of them are about right. They go pretty much in sync. When shifting gears try to be precise and avoid leaving your foot on the clutch too long. It will wear it out and it can be pretty expensive.
And depends if you're driving fast or slow but try to keep the revs at about 2,000-4,000 and you should always be around the powerband and not waste gas. Of course, it depends on the car. In my car you only start getting power after 6,500rpm. :D
It is true ... you have to always maintain some gas because if you don't you are bound to stall the engine , you can play with the clutch allot more frequent , what is critical is maintaining the rpm of the engine , or maintaining the engine alive . Don%26quot;t worry about matching your rpm with your car speed , for one is common sense not to over rev your engine unnecessarily , idle engine usually is 600 rpm .and a comfortable top rpm 3500rpm before shifting or some what less you have to practice and feel comfortable .
its hard to explain but easy to show. Well its all about the speed of letting go the clutch while pressing the gas, basically in first gear you let go of clutch very smoothly and slow but when you shift from 4th to 5th you can drop the clutch and press gas, so the higher gear to shift in, less clutch you have to burn.
Yes but %26quot;sloooooly' release the clutch while feeding a constant 1,000 rpm's until the the clutch is totally released. Push the gas petal till the tachometer reads 2,000 rpm. Do the same thing till you shift to high gear.
Your driver teacher must own a clutch company because you'll use it up by constantly slipping the clutch.
rev match? you will get the feel for it over time. but for now your ears will tell you when things dont match. he's right about starting out. you will get the feel for that also. it doesnt take long. soon you will be able to take off from a stop sign ,at the top of a steep hill. but try to avoid steep streets for awhile.
when going %26quot;up%26quot; through the gears? you only need depressing the clutch just enough to allow the trans to %26quot;slip%26quot; into the next gear.better to be off the gas completely for that moment of change from one gear to the next.most clutchs become fully %26quot;disengaged%26quot; long before the pedal hits the floor.
rev match I think what your asking . would be more related to down shifting. lets say your going 60 mph in 5th if you try to downshift to 2nd your rear tires will lock up because the engine should be at idle because your foot is off the gas.try to avoid making that mistake.but it happens easier than you might think. when down shifting you want to bring the engine back to near the rpm it was before you %26quot; engage%26quot; the clutch after making shift to next lower gear.
you will also learn quickly to depress the clutch all the way right before coming to a stop.or the car will stall everytime
gas is way expensive these days. you will sound cool.but no need to add gas during up shift. complicated as to why. but it has to do with ratios of gears, power to weight ratio of vehical and inertia.or speed of car in motion.
all a clutch does is separate the engine from the trans
just long enough to %26quot;slip%26quot; into the next gear.
%26quot;slipping%26quot; is what makes it all work like it should.
when your clutch starts to slip without you wanting it to?
its time to replace the old clutch with new. the componets that make a clutch work are very much like brake pads or shoes.so the easier you are on it. the longer it will last.
try to avoid congested freeways untill you have driven it for awhile.stop and go traffic hard on a clutch for inexperienced manule trans drivers.but it can be done without harming anything .once you have the hang of it.
you can where out a clutch in a few hours by resting your foot on it while driving. the only times you should ever touch it? starting and stopping/ up and down normal shifting.
driving with a clutch is the fun way to do it. once you have done it for awhile. you wont even have to think about it.
good luck drive carefully and have fun ...........E
Changing gears without using the clutch?
so my friends were having a argument today about changing the gears in a manual car without using the clutch.
one friend said that when it reaches the right rpms? (i have no idea) that its possible and if u do it right u wont damage anything.
the other friend said that it will ruin it either way and it cant be done.
so does anyone actually know? so they can get over it and stop arguing.
Changing gears without using the clutch?
Speed shifting, as its known, requires the driver to match the engine RPM with the rest of the drive line. If done correctly, the gear shifter will slide nice and easy into place..if done wrong however...boom.
Ask a truck driver, we know about it the most.
Changing gears without using the clutch?
depends on vehicle but on my gsxr 750 suzuki racebike u almost never have to clutch when down shifting from hi rpm
this is very common in older cars. The transmissions were built with syncronizers that allow you to shift without the clutch. It was most commonly used for racing! The life of the transmission will decrease if it is abused. It isn't something you should do all the time. So yes it is possible. And yes it can damage the transmission over time if it is abused.
that,s not good on them. that,s why they put that clutch pedal there, to use. you probably could do it but why? that,s a good way of ruining the clutch or transmission.
one friend said that when it reaches the right rpms? (i have no idea) that its possible and if u do it right u wont damage anything.
the other friend said that it will ruin it either way and it cant be done.
so does anyone actually know? so they can get over it and stop arguing.
Changing gears without using the clutch?
Speed shifting, as its known, requires the driver to match the engine RPM with the rest of the drive line. If done correctly, the gear shifter will slide nice and easy into place..if done wrong however...boom.
Ask a truck driver, we know about it the most.
Changing gears without using the clutch?
depends on vehicle but on my gsxr 750 suzuki racebike u almost never have to clutch when down shifting from hi rpm
this is very common in older cars. The transmissions were built with syncronizers that allow you to shift without the clutch. It was most commonly used for racing! The life of the transmission will decrease if it is abused. It isn't something you should do all the time. So yes it is possible. And yes it can damage the transmission over time if it is abused.
that,s not good on them. that,s why they put that clutch pedal there, to use. you probably could do it but why? that,s a good way of ruining the clutch or transmission.
How do you change the clutch on a 1991 geo storm? or a website that shows/tells you?
REMOVAL
Disconnect battery cables, then remove battery and battery tray.
Drain transaxle fluid, then remove air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect wire connectors and ground cable.
Disconnect engine wiring harness clip, then remove ignition coil ground cable.
Remove battery bracket and ignition coil assembly.
Remove speedometer cable, clutch cable and shifter cable, then using tool No. J 28467-A or equivalent, support engine assembly.
Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly.
Remove front undercovers, then remove ball joints at steering knuckles.
Remove front drive axles, then remove front exhaust pipe.
Remove torque rod and bracket, then left transaxle mount.
Remove front transaxle through bolt, then center beam with rear transaxle mount.
Remove engine stiffener and flywheel dust cover.
Using suitable jacks, support transaxle, then remove transaxle attaching bolts.
Remove transaxle assembly.
INSTALLATION
Install transaxle assembly, then torque attaching bolts to specifications.
Remove transaxle support, then install flywheel dust cover.
Install engine stiffener, then install center beam with rear transaxle mount, then install front and left transaxle mount through bolts.
Torque bolts to specifications.
Install torque rod, bracket and front exhaust pipe.
Install right drive axle assemblies, then install ball joints.
Install front undercovers, then wheel and tire assembly, then lower vehicle.
Remove engine support fixture.
Install shift cable, clutch cable and speedometer cable.
Install battery bracket, ignition coil assembly and ignition coil ground cable.
Install engine electrical harness clamp, then connect ground cable.
Connect electrical connectors, battery, battery tray and battery cables
How do you change the clutch on a 1991 geo storm? or a website that shows/tells you?
Easy! Take out the transaxle and replace the clutch just that simple.
How do you change the clutch on a 1991 geo storm? or a website that shows/tells you?
Last year I did a FWD (Acura integra) clutch job. I would NOT suggest you do it yourself. I was just lucky nothing went wrong.
You have to basically remove almost all pipes, bolts, hose, etc. on the engine/transmission. I still don't know how I kept all the bolts sorted out.
The RWD is relatively simple (but kind of dangerous because the tranny can fall on you).
Good Luck
buy a haynes manual at Auto Zone,they're around 10 bucks or a little more.
Buy a repair book.If you want to learn how to do a clutch replacement.
This is one of the best to learn,it is the very simple,compared to the others.
Loosening the axle nuts will be the most challaging.
Have fun !!!
Disconnect battery cables, then remove battery and battery tray.
Drain transaxle fluid, then remove air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect wire connectors and ground cable.
Disconnect engine wiring harness clip, then remove ignition coil ground cable.
Remove battery bracket and ignition coil assembly.
Remove speedometer cable, clutch cable and shifter cable, then using tool No. J 28467-A or equivalent, support engine assembly.
Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly.
Remove front undercovers, then remove ball joints at steering knuckles.
Remove front drive axles, then remove front exhaust pipe.
Remove torque rod and bracket, then left transaxle mount.
Remove front transaxle through bolt, then center beam with rear transaxle mount.
Remove engine stiffener and flywheel dust cover.
Using suitable jacks, support transaxle, then remove transaxle attaching bolts.
Remove transaxle assembly.
INSTALLATION
Install transaxle assembly, then torque attaching bolts to specifications.
Remove transaxle support, then install flywheel dust cover.
Install engine stiffener, then install center beam with rear transaxle mount, then install front and left transaxle mount through bolts.
Torque bolts to specifications.
Install torque rod, bracket and front exhaust pipe.
Install right drive axle assemblies, then install ball joints.
Install front undercovers, then wheel and tire assembly, then lower vehicle.
Remove engine support fixture.
Install shift cable, clutch cable and speedometer cable.
Install battery bracket, ignition coil assembly and ignition coil ground cable.
Install engine electrical harness clamp, then connect ground cable.
Connect electrical connectors, battery, battery tray and battery cables
How do you change the clutch on a 1991 geo storm? or a website that shows/tells you?
Easy! Take out the transaxle and replace the clutch just that simple.
How do you change the clutch on a 1991 geo storm? or a website that shows/tells you?
Last year I did a FWD (Acura integra) clutch job. I would NOT suggest you do it yourself. I was just lucky nothing went wrong.
You have to basically remove almost all pipes, bolts, hose, etc. on the engine/transmission. I still don't know how I kept all the bolts sorted out.
The RWD is relatively simple (but kind of dangerous because the tranny can fall on you).
Good Luck
buy a haynes manual at Auto Zone,they're around 10 bucks or a little more.
Buy a repair book.If you want to learn how to do a clutch replacement.
This is one of the best to learn,it is the very simple,compared to the others.
Loosening the axle nuts will be the most challaging.
Have fun !!!
Why should the accelerator be released when clutch is depressed?
I'm learning to drive a manual car, and my instructor mentioned to release the accelerator at all times before depressing the clutch to change gear (up or down). Since I'm still learning the basics, I'm not interesting in the so-called %26quot;powershifting%26quot; when this can be done. But I want to know what HAPPENS, when we do not release the accelerator when we shift gear (either up or down). Does the car jerk forward or simply whirl loudly? Can anyone explain this concisely for me? Thanks!
Why should the accelerator be released when clutch is depressed?
When you depress the clutch the engine is now running free. Meaning there is no load on the engine. If you do not let up on the gas then the engine will turn over, or rev, a lot faster. It could turn so fast that all the parts can not keep up together, which causes parts to hit and then you have catastrophic damage.
Why should the accelerator be released when clutch is depressed?
The engine has a cycle it goes through at the shift, if the flywheel or gearbox in the car is moving rapidly like during a revving cycle and you shift you can chip the teeth off a flywheel or damage the gears and break teeth off there too.
If you are down shifting and you accelerate and shift the same thing can happen but more likely what with down shifting what will occur is the engine could burn out quickly. As you are not supposed to rev the engine severely while in a low gear past the shift point revving while downshifting will cause undue wear and risk of burning the insides of the engine chamber and or chipping a gear as I mentioned before.
You can stall a car by shifting incorrectly as well, I drive a stick and there are times I do some stalls too but I have gotten better recently.
Owned the car for a year so I don't get to drive the thing much.
If you keep the accelerator pedal pressed when you press the clutch, the engine will race and when you let the clutch back in, chances are the engine will stall.
So when you change gear, foot off gas, foot on clutch, change gear, foot slowly off clutch, slowly on gas. If you do this properly you will have a smooth gear change without any jerking, juddering, etc.
Your aim should be for a smooth gear change whether up or down, that is, a smooth increase or decrease in speed.
Your rpms go up and when you try and engage the clutch it will do one of two things. One it will burn up your clutch plate. Two it will burn your tires. But its fun as long as your not paying the bill on either. So you depress the clutch and hold down the accelerator, it is the same in an automatic as put the car in neutral and rev the engine then slam it in to 2 gear.
leave plenty of room in front of your car and i mean 100 yards and try it out and see what happensmonitor upgrade drivers home spa day
Why should the accelerator be released when clutch is depressed?
When you depress the clutch the engine is now running free. Meaning there is no load on the engine. If you do not let up on the gas then the engine will turn over, or rev, a lot faster. It could turn so fast that all the parts can not keep up together, which causes parts to hit and then you have catastrophic damage.
Why should the accelerator be released when clutch is depressed?
The engine has a cycle it goes through at the shift, if the flywheel or gearbox in the car is moving rapidly like during a revving cycle and you shift you can chip the teeth off a flywheel or damage the gears and break teeth off there too.
If you are down shifting and you accelerate and shift the same thing can happen but more likely what with down shifting what will occur is the engine could burn out quickly. As you are not supposed to rev the engine severely while in a low gear past the shift point revving while downshifting will cause undue wear and risk of burning the insides of the engine chamber and or chipping a gear as I mentioned before.
You can stall a car by shifting incorrectly as well, I drive a stick and there are times I do some stalls too but I have gotten better recently.
Owned the car for a year so I don't get to drive the thing much.
If you keep the accelerator pedal pressed when you press the clutch, the engine will race and when you let the clutch back in, chances are the engine will stall.
So when you change gear, foot off gas, foot on clutch, change gear, foot slowly off clutch, slowly on gas. If you do this properly you will have a smooth gear change without any jerking, juddering, etc.
Your aim should be for a smooth gear change whether up or down, that is, a smooth increase or decrease in speed.
Your rpms go up and when you try and engage the clutch it will do one of two things. One it will burn up your clutch plate. Two it will burn your tires. But its fun as long as your not paying the bill on either. So you depress the clutch and hold down the accelerator, it is the same in an automatic as put the car in neutral and rev the engine then slam it in to 2 gear.
leave plenty of room in front of your car and i mean 100 yards and try it out and see what happens
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