Does the motor have to be removed as it sits in there side ways?
1990 Ford Fiesta needing clutch changed and I have a ?
Un like the other know it alls here you do not have to remove the engine
The trans can be remover and the cluch replaced. It is not easy but it can be done . You must pull the wheels, support the body, pull the axels, support the engine and then pull the trans.
There is a lot more to it and it is not a job for the week end mechanic but it can be done.
1990 Ford Fiesta needing clutch changed and I have a ?
It'll probably cost you more to fix that then the car is worth.
The motor and transmission both have to be removed from the car for repair.
No. Just like any other car with a manual transmission, the transmission has to be separated from the engine. If a mechanic is trying to B.S. you into thinking you have to pay them extra for removing the engine, then go find a honest mechanic, (not an easy task.) Some cars you have to take off the following wheel and swing it out of the way in order to pull the transmission away from the engine. Others you have to remove the motor mounts and transmission mount to get it off.
Make sure the flywheel gets turned, too.
You can pull just the transmission and put the clutch in. With the right tools its not that hard.
No not usually. They have a lot to disassemle though, And have to support the engine with jackstands if the transmission had brackets and helps support the motor. That's about it
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Clutch problem with crappy russian bike not r1 zx10 cbr?
right, im in vietnam and have bought a minsk 125 (im used to zx9rs and cbrs in england). The bike is absolutely **** but bulletproof to an extent.
i rev to about 50percent and everything works perfectly, above 50 percent and i rev but very little happens. i gain speed gradually but i can hear the engine screaming at peak revs. i have played about with adjusting the clutch at the lever end and with the adjuster nut and have it at the screaming/working minimum/maximum.
im thinking change clutch plates
does anyone have any other ideas
Clutch problem with crappy russian bike not r1 zx10 cbr?
Is it the pink one that hammond rode through vietnam in the topgear special??
I have heard good things about these bikes Claudio von planter had to ride one through Kazakhstan and Mongolia when his GS gave up the ghost.
have a look at the clutch plates, Probably needs changing, while your there change the springs and an oil and filter change wouldn't go a miss
Clutch problem with crappy russian bike not r1 zx10 cbr?
Could be, the only way to find out definitely is to access the clutch and see what state the friction plate/s are in. If there's not much left of the bits that stick out and the other plates have a good shine on or grooving then yes you need a new clutch. Not familiar with this make but here may be some tensioining nuts on the outer plate that could increase the pressure between the plates but to find this out you still need to strip it all down.
If you need a clutch set t might be worth finding out where you can get one from before you start pulling it all to bits.
One of my 1st bikes used to eat clutches, but it was a doddle to replace the inserts, as these were the same size as a cork from a bottle, so drink the wine mend the bike. Worked quite well too.
Your flogging the bike will not do it or you any good. Be realistic. This is no ZX 10 or CBR !
Once you go easy on the throttle, the problem will resolve itself. This bike is a commuter, a workhorse, not a race horse. So please ride it like one. Over tightening the clutch cable will cause it to slip.
Wet Clutches can only use straight weight oil..30w..40w..
Don't add anything to the oil..
The crankcase oil..drips into the Clutch chamber--thru a hole..
Storage will create a dry clutch--usually creating a loud--CHATTER-noise..
Your describing a %26quot;slipping clutch%26quot;..that can happen if a additive is in the oil crankcase..like STP/or some MULTI-grades might have some additive..
Use a straight weight oil..30w/[end]
Yes do it, but i doubt you will gain any speed or acceleratiion from it
Clutch springs may have lost their temper as well. Must have been badly overheated. Worth changing while you're in there!
i rev to about 50percent and everything works perfectly, above 50 percent and i rev but very little happens. i gain speed gradually but i can hear the engine screaming at peak revs. i have played about with adjusting the clutch at the lever end and with the adjuster nut and have it at the screaming/working minimum/maximum.
im thinking change clutch plates
does anyone have any other ideas
Clutch problem with crappy russian bike not r1 zx10 cbr?
Is it the pink one that hammond rode through vietnam in the topgear special??
I have heard good things about these bikes Claudio von planter had to ride one through Kazakhstan and Mongolia when his GS gave up the ghost.
have a look at the clutch plates, Probably needs changing, while your there change the springs and an oil and filter change wouldn't go a miss
Clutch problem with crappy russian bike not r1 zx10 cbr?
Could be, the only way to find out definitely is to access the clutch and see what state the friction plate/s are in. If there's not much left of the bits that stick out and the other plates have a good shine on or grooving then yes you need a new clutch. Not familiar with this make but here may be some tensioining nuts on the outer plate that could increase the pressure between the plates but to find this out you still need to strip it all down.
If you need a clutch set t might be worth finding out where you can get one from before you start pulling it all to bits.
One of my 1st bikes used to eat clutches, but it was a doddle to replace the inserts, as these were the same size as a cork from a bottle, so drink the wine mend the bike. Worked quite well too.
Your flogging the bike will not do it or you any good. Be realistic. This is no ZX 10 or CBR !
Once you go easy on the throttle, the problem will resolve itself. This bike is a commuter, a workhorse, not a race horse. So please ride it like one. Over tightening the clutch cable will cause it to slip.
Wet Clutches can only use straight weight oil..30w..40w..
Don't add anything to the oil..
The crankcase oil..drips into the Clutch chamber--thru a hole..
Storage will create a dry clutch--usually creating a loud--CHATTER-noise..
Your describing a %26quot;slipping clutch%26quot;..that can happen if a additive is in the oil crankcase..like STP/or some MULTI-grades might have some additive..
Use a straight weight oil..30w/[end]
Yes do it, but i doubt you will gain any speed or acceleratiion from it
Clutch springs may have lost their temper as well. Must have been badly overheated. Worth changing while you're in there!
Can one change the clutch position to the far right in a UK car?
as if the whole positions could be %26quot;mirrored%26quot; in contrast tae the us cars! hence, not slipping on a gas on entry or exit of a car in UK. (would be safer though I believe) Hit a clutch pedal instead would create less havoc (I won't correct %26quot;Tae%26quot; as it be Scots!)
Can one change the clutch position to the far right in a UK car?
You should not be getting in or out of the driver's seat of a car while the engine is running at any time, so your reason for wanting to move the pedal is not valid on it's face. Hundreds of thousands of UK, Australian, Japanese and other drivers deal with this %26quot;problem%26quot; every day and they don't seem to mind.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Can one change the clutch position to the far right in a UK car?
If you go underneath the car, there should be a screw about where the clutch pedal is. Loosen it. There are more screws above the clutch pedal in the drivers seat. *DO NOT LOSE THE SCREWS* remove the clutch pedal. Buy a new crazy pedal that swings to the right or flip the pedal lol. put back together. check free travel. set so the clutch as about 1/2 inch of free travel. Adjust by tightening the screw on the bottom of the car. Good Luck :)
can one? one can do anything with enough cash,,,,buy the parts from an export built model,,,install...after spending the 2000 euros/pounds i don't know it it really will help if you are that clumsyadvice and suggestions hair brush
Can one change the clutch position to the far right in a UK car?
You should not be getting in or out of the driver's seat of a car while the engine is running at any time, so your reason for wanting to move the pedal is not valid on it's face. Hundreds of thousands of UK, Australian, Japanese and other drivers deal with this %26quot;problem%26quot; every day and they don't seem to mind.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Can one change the clutch position to the far right in a UK car?
If you go underneath the car, there should be a screw about where the clutch pedal is. Loosen it. There are more screws above the clutch pedal in the drivers seat. *DO NOT LOSE THE SCREWS* remove the clutch pedal. Buy a new crazy pedal that swings to the right or flip the pedal lol. put back together. check free travel. set so the clutch as about 1/2 inch of free travel. Adjust by tightening the screw on the bottom of the car. Good Luck :)
can one? one can do anything with enough cash,,,,buy the parts from an export built model,,,install...after spending the 2000 euros/pounds i don't know it it really will help if you are that clumsy
Clutch Engagement Range?
I used to own a Honda F4... the bike rode like a dream minus all the electrical issues I had with it, so I sold it and purchased a Yamaha R6.
When I first got the R6, I would stall at every other light... the range at which the clutch catches seems to be much more narrow and less forgiving versus the Honda, and I needed time to adjust. I do understand how to change clutch freeplay, it is not an issue of where the exact catch point is (I've set the freeplay in accordance with the owners manual and I've ridden it enough that I comes naturally now)-- what I want to know is whether there is a way to increase the range at which the clutch catches. I've been riding around like this for a while now, and I've adjusted to it for the most part... I havnt had issues for months now until I stalled at a light today (carelessness on my part), which is what had finally driven me to ask whether there is anything I can do about it.
Any help you guys can give me is greatly appreciated. Ride Safe
Clutch Engagement Range?
IT DOESNT SOUND SO MUCH CLUTCH ERROR AS IT DOES RIDER ERROR,YOU COULD BUMP UP YOUR RPM A LIL TO HELP.
When I first got the R6, I would stall at every other light... the range at which the clutch catches seems to be much more narrow and less forgiving versus the Honda, and I needed time to adjust. I do understand how to change clutch freeplay, it is not an issue of where the exact catch point is (I've set the freeplay in accordance with the owners manual and I've ridden it enough that I comes naturally now)-- what I want to know is whether there is a way to increase the range at which the clutch catches. I've been riding around like this for a while now, and I've adjusted to it for the most part... I havnt had issues for months now until I stalled at a light today (carelessness on my part), which is what had finally driven me to ask whether there is anything I can do about it.
Any help you guys can give me is greatly appreciated. Ride Safe
Clutch Engagement Range?
IT DOESNT SOUND SO MUCH CLUTCH ERROR AS IT DOES RIDER ERROR,YOU COULD BUMP UP YOUR RPM A LIL TO HELP.
Kawasaki zx9r clutch fitting problem...
first of all this im asking this on behalf of a friend, so sorry if it doesnt make much sense
any way - hes bought a clutch kit for the bike and has been fitting it following the instructions supplied with the kit, got all the plates lined up and on and can engage the clutch until he puts the cover on and then when you try to engage the clutch it snaps the lifter at the end by the rivet - done this twice now, so was wondering if anyone knows whats been done wrong from this, no rush so garage is a last option.
hes got the right kit for bike, also changed clutch springs (10 plates in the basket)
thanks
Kawasaki zx9r clutch fitting problem...
For future reference, always give year, make, engine size and model # when asking questions. We need all of that info to give an informed answer.
Sometimes the year can make a difference.
When you say %26quot;snaps%26quot; the lifter, do you mean the lifter breaks apart and is no longer useable?
Then obviously he put something together wrong.
OR do you mean the lifter pops free of the clutch and the cover has to be removed to re-set it?
If so, the lifter or the rod may be worn, or damaged - inspect them throughly.
The gasket surfaces may not have been cleaned properly before assembly and the cover is mis-aligned.
The lifter and bearings may be worn, allowing the lifter to cock at an angle and slip off the rod.
Tell your freind to inspect his work and make sure everything was assembled properly.
http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.asp鈥?/a>
That's the first thing a shop would do.
Kawasaki zx9r clutch fitting problem...
sure
It sounds like it hasn't been put back together properly. Fitting new plates shouldn't make this happen. I dont know if this will help but a bike shop has all the kawasaki parts micro-fiches on their website. Check it out.
http://www.cornwallkawasaki.co.uk/shop/s鈥?/a>
any way - hes bought a clutch kit for the bike and has been fitting it following the instructions supplied with the kit, got all the plates lined up and on and can engage the clutch until he puts the cover on and then when you try to engage the clutch it snaps the lifter at the end by the rivet - done this twice now, so was wondering if anyone knows whats been done wrong from this, no rush so garage is a last option.
hes got the right kit for bike, also changed clutch springs (10 plates in the basket)
thanks
Kawasaki zx9r clutch fitting problem...
For future reference, always give year, make, engine size and model # when asking questions. We need all of that info to give an informed answer.
Sometimes the year can make a difference.
When you say %26quot;snaps%26quot; the lifter, do you mean the lifter breaks apart and is no longer useable?
Then obviously he put something together wrong.
OR do you mean the lifter pops free of the clutch and the cover has to be removed to re-set it?
If so, the lifter or the rod may be worn, or damaged - inspect them throughly.
The gasket surfaces may not have been cleaned properly before assembly and the cover is mis-aligned.
The lifter and bearings may be worn, allowing the lifter to cock at an angle and slip off the rod.
Tell your freind to inspect his work and make sure everything was assembled properly.
http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.asp鈥?/a>
That's the first thing a shop would do.
Kawasaki zx9r clutch fitting problem...
sure
It sounds like it hasn't been put back together properly. Fitting new plates shouldn't make this happen. I dont know if this will help but a bike shop has all the kawasaki parts micro-fiches on their website. Check it out.
http://www.cornwallkawasaki.co.uk/shop/s鈥?/a>
What happens when you change gears without clutch by mistake ?
I'm learning to drive manual transmition. When I started the car I changed from neutral to Reverse and I forgot to press the clutch. What do you think could happen to the car( the clutch and/or the tranny) ?
What happens when you change gears without clutch by mistake ?
THERE SEVERAL PARTS(BODY,SLIDING SLEEVE,AND BLOCKER RINGS)THAT MAKE UP THE SYNCRONIZER ASSY.IN A TYPICAL 5 SPEED,THERE IS A1-2 SYNCRONIZER,A 3-4 SYNCRONIZER,AND A 5-REVERSE SYNCRONIZER.WHEN YOU GRIND THE GEARS,YOU ARE REALLY GRINDING THE SYNCRONIZERS.THESE ARE NOT CHEAP TO BUY,AND THE TRANMISSION HAS TO BE REMOVED AND DISSASSEMBLED TO REPLACE THEM.
EVERYBODY HAS TO LEARN,I WISH YOU LUCK!
What happens when you change gears without clutch by mistake ?
You'll hear a grinding sound, but there probably won't be lasting damage. Try not to do this is the future though.
The worse that could happen is that you will grind your gears so hard that the gears will actually break, then you will need to get your transmission serviced which can be very expensive. Most of the time, however, your gears will stand up to the abuse but over time the gears will wear. Really, the only time you %26quot;need%26quot; to use the clutch is when you are just starting off, whether in first/second gear or reverse. Most modern transmissions can shift from 2 to 3 to 4 without using the clutch but you need to do it correctly or it wont work. I would recommend though if you are starting out that you use the clutch for every gear it will save you a big expense in the future. Replacing worn clutches are a lot less expensive than replacing worn or broken transmissions.
The greater damage happens when you pull the transmission out of gear without the clutch; you can warp or break off gear teeth. Grinding gears while putting the transmission into gear doesn't help it, but the noise usually discourages future abuse. Once or twice might not cause any expensive damage, just don't do it to my car.
did it sound like it was hurting ??
What happens when you change gears without clutch by mistake ?
THERE SEVERAL PARTS(BODY,SLIDING SLEEVE,AND BLOCKER RINGS)THAT MAKE UP THE SYNCRONIZER ASSY.IN A TYPICAL 5 SPEED,THERE IS A1-2 SYNCRONIZER,A 3-4 SYNCRONIZER,AND A 5-REVERSE SYNCRONIZER.WHEN YOU GRIND THE GEARS,YOU ARE REALLY GRINDING THE SYNCRONIZERS.THESE ARE NOT CHEAP TO BUY,AND THE TRANMISSION HAS TO BE REMOVED AND DISSASSEMBLED TO REPLACE THEM.
EVERYBODY HAS TO LEARN,I WISH YOU LUCK!
What happens when you change gears without clutch by mistake ?
You'll hear a grinding sound, but there probably won't be lasting damage. Try not to do this is the future though.
The worse that could happen is that you will grind your gears so hard that the gears will actually break, then you will need to get your transmission serviced which can be very expensive. Most of the time, however, your gears will stand up to the abuse but over time the gears will wear. Really, the only time you %26quot;need%26quot; to use the clutch is when you are just starting off, whether in first/second gear or reverse. Most modern transmissions can shift from 2 to 3 to 4 without using the clutch but you need to do it correctly or it wont work. I would recommend though if you are starting out that you use the clutch for every gear it will save you a big expense in the future. Replacing worn clutches are a lot less expensive than replacing worn or broken transmissions.
The greater damage happens when you pull the transmission out of gear without the clutch; you can warp or break off gear teeth. Grinding gears while putting the transmission into gear doesn't help it, but the noise usually discourages future abuse. Once or twice might not cause any expensive damage, just don't do it to my car.
did it sound like it was hurting ??
1995 ford ranger loosing clutch fluid?
started little by little. No visible signs of leaks. Could it be the cylinder that operates the clutch inside the housing? I'm going through about a half of reservoir every two weeks. Is it time to have it rebuilt and have the clutch changed out while they are in there?
1995 ford ranger loosing clutch fluid?
there is a master cylinder and slave cylinder master is near brake fluid reservoir and the slave is part of the throw out bearing if you can't see leak one of two possible area's leaking at slave its going all over the clutch or if its the master it even could be going in the truck under the carpet so if you're going to get clutch done have both master and slave done at same time
1995 ford ranger loosing clutch fluid?
If there's no visible signs of leakage then it must the slave cylinder inside the bell housing. As far as replacing the clutch, if it's a 95 it must have quite a few miles on it by now. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
1995 ford ranger loosing clutch fluid?
there is a master cylinder and slave cylinder master is near brake fluid reservoir and the slave is part of the throw out bearing if you can't see leak one of two possible area's leaking at slave its going all over the clutch or if its the master it even could be going in the truck under the carpet so if you're going to get clutch done have both master and slave done at same time
1995 ford ranger loosing clutch fluid?
If there's no visible signs of leakage then it must the slave cylinder inside the bell housing. As far as replacing the clutch, if it's a 95 it must have quite a few miles on it by now. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
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