Friday, June 3, 2011
What are the benefits of changing from the stock clutch to a performance clutch?
it takes up more abuse and you can shift faster better and smoother|||Stronger bite, more life, handles more HP.
About how long should a clutch change take on a 86 Fiero?
I have a 86 Fiero with a bad clutch, and I%26#039;m wondering how long it should take to change it and if i have to drop the eng. to do it.
|||buddy you have to take the body off the frame, using a two post hoist and the roll out the chassis and then seperate the motor and trans there and do the clutch you will need to take all the parts with you to make sure you get the right ones, if you get a quote it is a 24 hour book time job I have been 5 of them now nothing under 20 hours. It is a massive job and if your not great at mechanics I wouldn%26#039;t try it.good luck|||23.8 hour book time so figure 2400 in just labor|||about two and a half months since it appears Pontiac made the Fiero by hanging the transmission from a wire and pouring the rest of the car around it lol
|||buddy you have to take the body off the frame, using a two post hoist and the roll out the chassis and then seperate the motor and trans there and do the clutch you will need to take all the parts with you to make sure you get the right ones, if you get a quote it is a 24 hour book time job I have been 5 of them now nothing under 20 hours. It is a massive job and if your not great at mechanics I wouldn%26#039;t try it.good luck|||23.8 hour book time so figure 2400 in just labor|||about two and a half months since it appears Pontiac made the Fiero by hanging the transmission from a wire and pouring the rest of the car around it lol
I am changing the clutch pad in my manual 94' ford.what to do?
i changed it 5 months ago and it wore down. should i break it in or what? and how?|||Are you referring to the clutch disc and if so changing the disc only is half ***-ed if you go through taking out the Trans you should be replacing the throw out bearing, the pressure plate and the disk, also checking the flywheel surface to see if it needs turning or replacement and making sure it is all properly adjusted and depending on if it is hydraulically activated you need to inspect the clutch slave and master for leaks oh yeah don%26#039;t ride the pedal !
B16 OBD0 is there a clutch kit to convert hydraulic to cable?
I%26#039;m swap a b16 into a del sol body and as you know the del sol is hydraulic and b16 use cable clutch. Instead of changing the clutch padel and every thing else is there some thing I can use to help use the clutch handle up?|||Check out Hasport.com, I believe they have a kit for you needs.|||thank you for the advice.
|||No problem. Hasport makes thing easy now.
|||yes there is, first you need to go to a junkyard and purchase the hydraulic kit, and then find a company who sells the conversion kit.
http://www.superhonda.com might be able to help. use the search button.
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|||No problem. Hasport makes thing easy now.
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|||yes there is, first you need to go to a junkyard and purchase the hydraulic kit, and then find a company who sells the conversion kit.
http://www.superhonda.com might be able to help. use the search button.
How difficult is a Clutch change in a Toyota Pickup?
1994 22re base 5-speed. 192000 will need a clutch soon im sure. It slips hard when accelerating onto the highway....|||its a hard job unless you have a good transmission jack to use on it,or a lift to put it up on,and either way its still a lot of work on it,its not an impossible job ,but if you have never done it before you,ll be better off letting someone else do it for you,there%26#039;s a lot of things that can go wrong with doing this job,you also have to have the flywheel re-surfaced to make the job work right,good luck with it.|||your welcome.
|||Much easier than in a FWD vehicle. Plus you have some space, since it is a truck. Go pick up a manual (haynes or chiltons) for your truck, and read over it. Simple overview is unbolting the driveshaft, draining the tranny fluid, removing the shifter, removing the driveshaft, unbolting the tranny, unbolting the bell housing (if you detached it from the tranny) removing pressure plate, clutch disc will fall off, removing flywheel and getting resurfaced or new, replacing pilot bushing and throwout bearing, then reverse of removal, with adding fluid as an extra step. It is slightly more complecated, but not much.
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|||Much easier than in a FWD vehicle. Plus you have some space, since it is a truck. Go pick up a manual (haynes or chiltons) for your truck, and read over it. Simple overview is unbolting the driveshaft, draining the tranny fluid, removing the shifter, removing the driveshaft, unbolting the tranny, unbolting the bell housing (if you detached it from the tranny) removing pressure plate, clutch disc will fall off, removing flywheel and getting resurfaced or new, replacing pilot bushing and throwout bearing, then reverse of removal, with adding fluid as an extra step. It is slightly more complecated, but not much.
How to change clutch on 1987 honda civic?
The clutch is making noise when I depress the clutch pedal fully. It allows the car to shift gears and does not make noise if I do not fully depress the clutch pedal. The car has 130k miles. the Haynes manual calls for the removal of the exhaust system to get at the tranny, which I do not want to do. Anyone done this how long does it take??|||I don%26#039;t think you have to remove the exhaust,you just pull your axle%26#039;s ,your clutch cable ,bell housing bolt and remove the mounts,then drop you tran%26#039;s down..not that hard maybe two people...
Why would a Saturn SL1's coolant temp be stuck halfway even when cold after clutch change?
My 97 saturn SL1 just got the clutch repaired, runs so much better then ever before, however my coolant temp is stuck in the middle, even when cold, and my secondary cooling fan for long idles stays on while the engine is started, what could be the cause?|||Some engines use the coolant temp sensor for dual purposes. One being to send a signal to the computer to advise it on the temp of the engine and the other to control the gauge. It could be possible that this sensor has failed and now is giving a faulty resistance to which the engine computer will signal the fan to come on and/or send a faulty signal to the gauge.|||The wiring connector at the sensor may have been pulled loose while it was worked on.|||they could have pinched a wire when reinstalling the trans take it back and let them check it
How do i keep the water pump pulley from turning when changing a fan clutch on a 2000 dodge dakota?
most good auto parts stores are happy to rent you the proper tool for removal of the clutch fan. remember, always use the proper tools you you dont hurt yourself or damage your car|||I went throught eh same problem a few months ago.
I faughth with the fan clutch and decided to remove it completely.
Use an air-chisel and knock the nut loose.
I run a 180 degree t-stat and have no overheating issues. The electric fan kicks in and cools when sitting for more than 15-20 min.
|||put the old belt around the pulley and cinch it up tight with a pair of vice grips. this will give you a grip on the pulley without damaging it. however it will probably ruin the belt so you will need to replace it anyway. belts are cheaper than special tools.|||I think you%26#039;ll find assorted holes or grooves in that pulley that you can put a ratchet through and a socket so you can hold the pulley with a ratchet as you try getting at the fan clutch.Even if a bolt loosens some on the water pump pulley it can give you the leverage and you can always re-tighten it later.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I always buy a service manual like Haynes for any car I buy and I find they can come in very handy at times like this especially.|||Also you could try a very large pair of channel locks to hold the pulley.
And put the wrench on the fan clutch nut and give the wrench a quick whack with a rubber mallet to shock it and loosen the fan clutch.
Autozone does rent a holding tool and wrench
Pep boys sells the tool..
I faughth with the fan clutch and decided to remove it completely.
Use an air-chisel and knock the nut loose.
I run a 180 degree t-stat and have no overheating issues. The electric fan kicks in and cools when sitting for more than 15-20 min.
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|||put the old belt around the pulley and cinch it up tight with a pair of vice grips. this will give you a grip on the pulley without damaging it. however it will probably ruin the belt so you will need to replace it anyway. belts are cheaper than special tools.|||I think you%26#039;ll find assorted holes or grooves in that pulley that you can put a ratchet through and a socket so you can hold the pulley with a ratchet as you try getting at the fan clutch.Even if a bolt loosens some on the water pump pulley it can give you the leverage and you can always re-tighten it later.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I always buy a service manual like Haynes for any car I buy and I find they can come in very handy at times like this especially.|||Also you could try a very large pair of channel locks to hold the pulley.
And put the wrench on the fan clutch nut and give the wrench a quick whack with a rubber mallet to shock it and loosen the fan clutch.
Autozone does rent a holding tool and wrench
Pep boys sells the tool..
Why do we always have to press the Clutch before changing Gears?
You don%26#039;t have to, but if you don%26#039;t, you%26#039;ll destroy the transmission.|||you actualy don%26#039;t have to...you can press the shift a bit forward, and feel it..you can slide it in if you time it right..don%26#039;t do this if you don%26#039;t know what your doing or you will strip your gears....the REASON why you do is do it lifts the transmission a bit so the next gear can take hold...|||To change gears, otherwise you could not do it.To make the process smoother for the transmission|||www.howstuffworks.com
look for %26quot;how do transmissions work%26quot;
a real cool site|||you wouldn%26#039;t have to if the rpm%26#039;s were right.|||try changing gears w/o putting the clutch in and see how it works...|||so that the gear unhooks from the engine/gearbox. That way it can switch and then when you let go of the clutch again, it reconnects and then can keep the car moving.|||Same as we press boobs to enter dick in tight pu-ssy|||You don%26#039;t, really. You have to match the engine speed and the transmission speed to just shift gears without the clutch. It%26#039;s easier to just push the clutch pedal and change gears.
What happesns when you push the clutch pedal is that the clutch pressure plate disconnects from the engine, so you can just select whatever gear you want, and then the clutch pressure plate reconnects when you let the pedal out.|||Clutches are useful in devices with two rotating shafts. In these devices, one of the shafts is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft is driving another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is driven by a motor and the other is driving a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed, or be decoupled and spin at different speeds.
In a car, you need a clutch because the engine spins all the time and the car wheels don%26#039;t. In order for a car to stop without killing the engine, the wheels need to be disconnected from the engine somehow. The clutch allows us to smoothly engage a spinning engine to a non-spinning transmission by controlling the slippage between them. To understand how a clutch works, it helps to know a little bit about friction.|||while in gear and driving the engine is directly linked to the wheels. pushing in the clutch seperates the engine from the wheels so you can MANUALLY shift the tranny into a different gear. when you release the clutch it connects everything again.|||You don%26#039;t. It%26#039;s called speed shifting, although it%26#039;s actually slower. Just put a little pressure on the gearshift as you accelerate, and it will fall out of gear. Let off the gas while putting pressure towards the next gear, and it will fall into that gear when the RPM%26#039;s are right.
Otherwise, you use the clutch to separate the transmission from the motor so a different gear can engage it when you let off the clutch.|||Clutch is a part of the transmission system which transfers the rotary power to the wheel side from engine via gear box. In order to change the speed ratio at the wheel side we have to disengage the system and make it free from the prime continuosly mover , engine. So we have to press clutch to disengage the two ends of the moving system to change for a different speed level.
look for %26quot;how do transmissions work%26quot;
a real cool site|||you wouldn%26#039;t have to if the rpm%26#039;s were right.|||try changing gears w/o putting the clutch in and see how it works...|||so that the gear unhooks from the engine/gearbox. That way it can switch and then when you let go of the clutch again, it reconnects and then can keep the car moving.|||Same as we press boobs to enter dick in tight pu-ssy|||You don%26#039;t, really. You have to match the engine speed and the transmission speed to just shift gears without the clutch. It%26#039;s easier to just push the clutch pedal and change gears.
What happesns when you push the clutch pedal is that the clutch pressure plate disconnects from the engine, so you can just select whatever gear you want, and then the clutch pressure plate reconnects when you let the pedal out.|||Clutches are useful in devices with two rotating shafts. In these devices, one of the shafts is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft is driving another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is driven by a motor and the other is driving a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed, or be decoupled and spin at different speeds.
In a car, you need a clutch because the engine spins all the time and the car wheels don%26#039;t. In order for a car to stop without killing the engine, the wheels need to be disconnected from the engine somehow. The clutch allows us to smoothly engage a spinning engine to a non-spinning transmission by controlling the slippage between them. To understand how a clutch works, it helps to know a little bit about friction.|||while in gear and driving the engine is directly linked to the wheels. pushing in the clutch seperates the engine from the wheels so you can MANUALLY shift the tranny into a different gear. when you release the clutch it connects everything again.|||You don%26#039;t. It%26#039;s called speed shifting, although it%26#039;s actually slower. Just put a little pressure on the gearshift as you accelerate, and it will fall out of gear. Let off the gas while putting pressure towards the next gear, and it will fall into that gear when the RPM%26#039;s are right.
Otherwise, you use the clutch to separate the transmission from the motor so a different gear can engage it when you let off the clutch.|||Clutch is a part of the transmission system which transfers the rotary power to the wheel side from engine via gear box. In order to change the speed ratio at the wheel side we have to disengage the system and make it free from the prime continuosly mover , engine. So we have to press clutch to disengage the two ends of the moving system to change for a different speed level.
Any tips on changing the clutch on a '93 corolla 1.3 hatch?
the best way on a 93 Corolla is to push it to the Toyota dealer and buy a new one LOL
Why is my new clutch slipping when changing gears into 3rd, 4th, and 5th?
I drive a 2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD Diesel. I have a new heavy-duty clutch that was installed in the summer of 2009 so it has only been in for about 6 months. I live in MN and today it is only 9 degrees. Could the problem be that it is too cold? I also checked the tranny fluid and it is full and is not burning. Anyone know what is wrong?|||Hydraulic clutch? Maybe water in the clutch lines. Try bleeding the system, like bleeding brakes. Maybe the slave cylinger got gunked up/corroded by road salt. Make sure it%26#039;s re-engaging the clutch full throw. It%26#039;s slipping in the higher gears cuz there%26#039;s more load on it than in the lower gears. And it%26#039;s not the fluid. It%26#039;s not an auto trans if you have a clutch|||6 months, should still be under a parts and labor warranty. Return to the shop that performed the work.|||the clutch linkage needs to be adjusted . or something is hanging up it is not releasing totally the upper gears put a lot more stress on the clutch than the lower . have it checked soon or you may mess it up|||if it is extremely cold that could explain it but then it should work fine when it warms up, and being a clutch it should heat up in less than a few minutes. Sounds like the clutch is just wearing out... due to a faulty clutch or poor driving being the result. the only other cause is pretty far fetched... If oil or something got on the clutch or flywheel. either way the clutch would need to be replaced|||There%26#039;s no real good news concerning a clutch that is slipping - it won%26#039;t be long before the pressure plate overheats and the flywheel glazes over and the slipping gets a lot worse.
Was the flywheel resurfaced when the clutch was replaced? Was it a re-manufactured pressure plate? Is the clutch engaging completely?
Hopefully, there%26#039;s a warranty on these parts that%26#039;s still in effect.
Was the flywheel resurfaced when the clutch was replaced? Was it a re-manufactured pressure plate? Is the clutch engaging completely?
Hopefully, there%26#039;s a warranty on these parts that%26#039;s still in effect.
I am changing the clutch in 99 chevy truck -should i have fly wheel turned?
the fly wheel has 1 scratch and some light burn type -rub marks from clutch plate,not the blue over heated type burn marks .|||Yes turn it or it will throw it off balance...Good Luck|||While you have it tore down, it would not hurt! also... do not forget to change your pressure plate... You will thank yourself later.|||I%26#039;ve done the clutch on my car twice. If this is the first time you have every done the clutch since you bought the truck, I would strongly suggest getting the flywheel cut.
Even if it doesn%26#039;t look all too bad, sometimes the smallest amount of warp or scratching could make the clutch slip or wear down faster, and you will find yourself changing it again sooner than you think.
Also, as a pointer, DON%26#039;T go to the %26#039;main stream%26#039; auto parts stores to have it cut, instead look up a local %26quot;family owned%26quot; or specialty auto parts store or mechanic which can do it for you. They will more than likely do a better job, and also not kill you on the price.
I had mine cut at a local shop, and they had it done within an hour. Also, it was done by a mechinist rather than some kid who just started at AutoZone.
Don%26#039;t forget to vote for the Best Answer!
-TORCH|||Turn it only if it is severely burned in spots (chatter) or if it has cracks in it . These will be many small hairline cracks in the wear area. Also try a straight edge across the wheel. A deep worn area should be machined straight. (It can look ok but can break the new pressure plate.) Make sure to replace the throwout brng.
And examine the fingers on the fork. Check the return springs and holder springs . Check ball and socket and grease the fork pivot. Dont forget to check all the flywheel teeth for wear or missing. And make sure of starter to flywheel clearance, don%26#039;t loose the shims.|||Well its a bastard to do clutches. So if you want it done right the first time. Everything needs to be new. You will be gratefull that you did. Replace the following. Throw out bearing, clutch disk, diafram and, get that sucker turned and make sure you use a alignment tool to align the clutch correctly.|||yes! otherwise you will have chatter and will shorten clutch life, also change pilot and throw out buhings.|||Always have the flywheel machined or replaced when installing a clutch. You will get a better job and a longer lasting clutch
Even if it doesn%26#039;t look all too bad, sometimes the smallest amount of warp or scratching could make the clutch slip or wear down faster, and you will find yourself changing it again sooner than you think.
Also, as a pointer, DON%26#039;T go to the %26#039;main stream%26#039; auto parts stores to have it cut, instead look up a local %26quot;family owned%26quot; or specialty auto parts store or mechanic which can do it for you. They will more than likely do a better job, and also not kill you on the price.
I had mine cut at a local shop, and they had it done within an hour. Also, it was done by a mechinist rather than some kid who just started at AutoZone.
Don%26#039;t forget to vote for the Best Answer!
-TORCH|||Turn it only if it is severely burned in spots (chatter) or if it has cracks in it . These will be many small hairline cracks in the wear area. Also try a straight edge across the wheel. A deep worn area should be machined straight. (It can look ok but can break the new pressure plate.) Make sure to replace the throwout brng.
And examine the fingers on the fork. Check the return springs and holder springs . Check ball and socket and grease the fork pivot. Dont forget to check all the flywheel teeth for wear or missing. And make sure of starter to flywheel clearance, don%26#039;t loose the shims.|||Well its a bastard to do clutches. So if you want it done right the first time. Everything needs to be new. You will be gratefull that you did. Replace the following. Throw out bearing, clutch disk, diafram and, get that sucker turned and make sure you use a alignment tool to align the clutch correctly.|||yes! otherwise you will have chatter and will shorten clutch life, also change pilot and throw out buhings.|||Always have the flywheel machined or replaced when installing a clutch. You will get a better job and a longer lasting clutch
What are some techniques/tips for driving to lower harm to the clutch?
I have a hydraulic clutch and I was wondering if anyone could give tips for starts/shifts/driving in general on how to save the clutch. I have a slight concern for the future of changing my clutch, as it is expensive and I would like to prolong it as long as possible.
I drive a 2001 VW GTI, with 57k miles.|||Learning to Rev-match will save lots of wear on your clutch. The majority of wear on a clutch disc is from the disc having to make up the difference between engine speed and transmission input shaft speed.
Using my 1987 Mazda RX-7 as an example, here%26#039;s how you rev-match. Let%26#039;s say I%26#039;m cruising along in 3rd gear at 2000rpm (around 30mph) and I want to shift down to 2nd. First, step on the clutch and pull it out of 3rd. With the clutch still in, rev to 3000 as you slot the shifter to 2nd. Then release the clutch and accelerate.
How high you need to rev depends on your transmission%26#039;s gear ratios. It%26#039;ll take some practice to get it right, but it%26#039;ll be seamless when you do. To get an idea of what you need to rev to, I%26#039;d suggest taking your car out on an empty stretch of road and keeping it at 2000rpm in 4th gear, then downshifting to 3rd gear and maintaining the same actual speed. You%26#039;ll find out exactly what the difference is then (mine is 50%, or 1000rpm in this case). In my car, 4th gear at 2000rpm is the same speed as 3rd gear at 3000rpm. 4th gear at 3000rpm would be 3rd at 4500rpm and so on. Your car might be geared differently, so you should take a notebook with you and write down the rpm differences between gears. And most of all, keep your starting speed consistent. I used 2000rpm and found my car has a 50% difference between gears (it goes up to 3000rpm on downshift)
Once you got that down, you might try giving heel-and-toe a try. Basically, you are rev-matching on a downshift while braking.
Step on the clutch
Step on brakes,
Downshift and rev-match using the heel of your right foot, while braking with your toe
Release all 3 pedals and accelerate|||DON%26#039;T use the clutch to brake. Don%26#039;t downshift when you are stopping, just shift into neutral and brake normally. Brakepads are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch.
If you%26#039;re willing to slightly reduce the life of your transmission, you can shift without using the clutch at all. There are shift-points where the gears match up naturally. Once you find them, you can just quickly jump up gears without the clutch. Having a tachometer really helps to find your shift points.|||thats a good question. usually clutchs last for a long time ( say every 50k or so ) but it also depends on how you drive.
when starting, usually you will have the car in 1st or second gear when parked, so when you start it, you can just push the clutch to start it. if you were to shift to neutral before starting the car, the clutch wont engage, and therefore adding a slight amount of life too it.
also, upshifting, you have to shift as smooth as possible, when the engine rpm, and trans rpm are about the same. don%26#039;t give it too much gas when up shifting.
the same applied to down shifting. do it as smooth as possible.
when stopping at a red light, the less you have the clutch pressed in while in gear the better, so shift to neutral if you are going to be at a light for sometime. even when the clutch is pressed in, there is a slight friction going on, not much, but in the long run, it makes a difference.|||Michael Hunt has the idea to not use your clutch, and it is a good idea. You don%26#039;t need to look at your rpm gage, it can get you into trouble. Just listen to your engine, it will tell you when to change gears with out the clutch. Most of the time you will start in 1st gear, just go fast enough to get your car rowling. At this time you will use the clutch, now with out the clutch pull it out of 1st and go to 2nd. Don%26#039;t do it fast just do it easy, now give it gas till to YOU it sounds like time to change to 3rd, pull it out of 2nd - no clutch and go to 3rd. Now if you can%26#039;t get it out of 2nd slow it down a little, then see if you can pull it out of gear. Now to gear down, don%26#039;t use your clutch. If in your highest gear, just slow down some pull it out of that gear, to go to your next highest gear, run your rpm up till it falls into that gear. Because as you run your rpm up and trying to push it into gear, (not hard) just hard enough to go into gear, if your rpm is high enough it will just fall into gear. You will learn in time, just keep trying.
I drive a 2001 VW GTI, with 57k miles.|||Learning to Rev-match will save lots of wear on your clutch. The majority of wear on a clutch disc is from the disc having to make up the difference between engine speed and transmission input shaft speed.
Using my 1987 Mazda RX-7 as an example, here%26#039;s how you rev-match. Let%26#039;s say I%26#039;m cruising along in 3rd gear at 2000rpm (around 30mph) and I want to shift down to 2nd. First, step on the clutch and pull it out of 3rd. With the clutch still in, rev to 3000 as you slot the shifter to 2nd. Then release the clutch and accelerate.
How high you need to rev depends on your transmission%26#039;s gear ratios. It%26#039;ll take some practice to get it right, but it%26#039;ll be seamless when you do. To get an idea of what you need to rev to, I%26#039;d suggest taking your car out on an empty stretch of road and keeping it at 2000rpm in 4th gear, then downshifting to 3rd gear and maintaining the same actual speed. You%26#039;ll find out exactly what the difference is then (mine is 50%, or 1000rpm in this case). In my car, 4th gear at 2000rpm is the same speed as 3rd gear at 3000rpm. 4th gear at 3000rpm would be 3rd at 4500rpm and so on. Your car might be geared differently, so you should take a notebook with you and write down the rpm differences between gears. And most of all, keep your starting speed consistent. I used 2000rpm and found my car has a 50% difference between gears (it goes up to 3000rpm on downshift)
Once you got that down, you might try giving heel-and-toe a try. Basically, you are rev-matching on a downshift while braking.
Step on the clutch
Step on brakes,
Downshift and rev-match using the heel of your right foot, while braking with your toe
Release all 3 pedals and accelerate|||DON%26#039;T use the clutch to brake. Don%26#039;t downshift when you are stopping, just shift into neutral and brake normally. Brakepads are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch.
If you%26#039;re willing to slightly reduce the life of your transmission, you can shift without using the clutch at all. There are shift-points where the gears match up naturally. Once you find them, you can just quickly jump up gears without the clutch. Having a tachometer really helps to find your shift points.|||thats a good question. usually clutchs last for a long time ( say every 50k or so ) but it also depends on how you drive.
when starting, usually you will have the car in 1st or second gear when parked, so when you start it, you can just push the clutch to start it. if you were to shift to neutral before starting the car, the clutch wont engage, and therefore adding a slight amount of life too it.
also, upshifting, you have to shift as smooth as possible, when the engine rpm, and trans rpm are about the same. don%26#039;t give it too much gas when up shifting.
the same applied to down shifting. do it as smooth as possible.
when stopping at a red light, the less you have the clutch pressed in while in gear the better, so shift to neutral if you are going to be at a light for sometime. even when the clutch is pressed in, there is a slight friction going on, not much, but in the long run, it makes a difference.|||Michael Hunt has the idea to not use your clutch, and it is a good idea. You don%26#039;t need to look at your rpm gage, it can get you into trouble. Just listen to your engine, it will tell you when to change gears with out the clutch. Most of the time you will start in 1st gear, just go fast enough to get your car rowling. At this time you will use the clutch, now with out the clutch pull it out of 1st and go to 2nd. Don%26#039;t do it fast just do it easy, now give it gas till to YOU it sounds like time to change to 3rd, pull it out of 2nd - no clutch and go to 3rd. Now if you can%26#039;t get it out of 2nd slow it down a little, then see if you can pull it out of gear. Now to gear down, don%26#039;t use your clutch. If in your highest gear, just slow down some pull it out of that gear, to go to your next highest gear, run your rpm up till it falls into that gear. Because as you run your rpm up and trying to push it into gear, (not hard) just hard enough to go into gear, if your rpm is high enough it will just fall into gear. You will learn in time, just keep trying.
What is the procedure for changing the clutch on a mitsubishi l200 (1997 model - 4D56). Can I do it myself?
You can do it and some mechanic experience would be helpful.
You need to drop the drive shaft.
Disconnect all cables and linkage to transmission and unbolt it from the engine and remove it.
Now unbolt the pressure plate from flywheel and remove the pressure plate and clutch.
Now install in the reverse order starting with new clutch disk and pressure plate. Buy a pin to align clutch disk with hole in transmission otherwise the transmission will never fit back into position.|||peole do it all the time but it is best left to the ones who knows be better if you payed to have it done is a big job
You need to drop the drive shaft.
Disconnect all cables and linkage to transmission and unbolt it from the engine and remove it.
Now unbolt the pressure plate from flywheel and remove the pressure plate and clutch.
Now install in the reverse order starting with new clutch disk and pressure plate. Buy a pin to align clutch disk with hole in transmission otherwise the transmission will never fit back into position.|||peole do it all the time but it is best left to the ones who knows be better if you payed to have it done is a big job
Just wondering what the going rate is for changing a clutch?
on an 87 ford ranger 2 wheel drive|||i own a repair shop,,and parts labor and all usually cost around 325.00 dollars,,and takes about one day to do,,sometimes a little more depending on how good of shape the flywheel is in,,it may have to be turned,,good luck with it,,i hope this help,s.|||2 bills,that%26#039;s on the side|||MOTOR Truck %26amp; Van Labor Guide says 3.9 hours with a 2.3L engine, 5.0 hours with a 4.0L engine. Figure $40.00 to $65.00 per hour plus parts and the flywheel will have to be resurfaced. NEVER install a new clutch without resurfacing the flywheel. Total cost will be $350.00 to $500.00
I changed clutch cable, but pedal won't come back?
I have a 91 subaru legacy, and I had to replace the clutch cable. I got it on there, but the pedal won%26#039;t come back when I step on it. I don%26#039;t know what it could be, any help appreciated.|||the cable probably needs adjusted. they are not adjusted when you buy them.|||Did you reconnect the return spring?|||Get a Clymer or Haynes repair manual for your Subaru, it sounds like you%26#039;ve had a spring come loose.|||You need to adjust the cable if you didn%26#039;t that%26#039;s the problem. Check for how much travel the clutch pedal has inside the car. there should be only a very small amount (refer to your repair manual) If you did remove the return spring by the fork on the transmission make sure it%26#039;s back in place. There%26#039;s an adjusting nut on your cable to make the adjustment. Usually on the firewall where the cable enters the cab.
Changing Del Sol clutch master and slave cylinders?
Is it easy to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders on a Honda Del Sol... had a leak from master cylinder for awhile, kept refilling it, but now when i open the nut on the slave to bleed the line, nothing comes out, even though the master is full of fluid....and pedal won%26#039;t return from floor, no pressure at all...|||my answer go to site www.honda.com and tell your problem about the clutch and cylinders|||open bleeder,push pedal to floor and hold there let run till no bubles making sure it doesn%26#039;t run out close bleeder let pedal up does it have pressure now it should
Im changing a clutch in a 94 sentra 1.6 L fwd.?
how do i seperate the bell housing from the engine to get to the clutch.|||You%26#039;ll need to remove the bolts, along with the drive axles, starter, shift linkage, mounts, and speedo cable. Also disconnect the reverse light wiring. You are taking the transmission out of the car to install the clutch, no way around it.
Clutch???!!!?
ok,i asked this question few days ago,some people want more details-its a ford fiesta,L reg,1.1-my biting point is right at the top of the peddle and it doesnt take any pressure to push the peddle all the way down,do I need to change my cable or the whole thing? I was quoted æ‹¢270 to change my clutch in cambridge,is this reasonable? many thanks x|||Sounds like you%26#039;ve got a bad master cylinder. Symptoms are the same as my sisters car, we replaced it and it cleared up.|||I%26#039;m not sure about the master cylinder. I had to change mine on a Ford Probe, but I was having to pump my clutch and constantly add brake fluid to it. Get some more opinions and good luck!|||If your clutch pedal is releasing at the top and the pedal has no resistance then more than likely you have a problem with the clutch slave or master cylinder, but if you have a problem getting it to go in gear, and it makes a grinding noise, then yes you need to replace the clutch assembly, and the pilot %26amp; throwout bearings.. just depends.. check to see if the fluid is low in the master cylinder, add some and pump the clutch and see if it gets firm.. about the cable linkage..it might be bad, but if the vehicle is high mileage probably one of the 2 suggested... take to a trusted auto shop and have them check it out..|||Just pay the mechanic, that is a good price and you dont have to do anything but pay the fellow.
Hi how much it will cost me to change clutch for a ford focus 2003?
im interested in the labour cost only as \i have the new part already,
1 second ago - 4 days left to answer.|||Labor cost will be around $450 plus tax.|||I think it would cost around $70 for labour at a mechanic shop|||well labour will still be æ‹¢150 ish because the garages usually have a good mark up on parts such as clutches, make sure that you have the complete clutch kit,ie, pressure plate, centre plate,and thrust bearing.
still pays to shop around, its about a 3 hour job by someone who knows what they are doing.|||Both wrong it%26#039;s quite a big job it takes about 6 hours to replace so it depends on the labour charge of the garage you use I would expect around æ‹¢40 per hour at least. You say you have got the parts, have you got the slave cylinder as well (i.e. three piece kit) it is essential to replace that as well.
1 second ago - 4 days left to answer.|||Labor cost will be around $450 plus tax.|||I think it would cost around $70 for labour at a mechanic shop|||well labour will still be æ‹¢150 ish because the garages usually have a good mark up on parts such as clutches, make sure that you have the complete clutch kit,ie, pressure plate, centre plate,and thrust bearing.
still pays to shop around, its about a 3 hour job by someone who knows what they are doing.|||Both wrong it%26#039;s quite a big job it takes about 6 hours to replace so it depends on the labour charge of the garage you use I would expect around æ‹¢40 per hour at least. You say you have got the parts, have you got the slave cylinder as well (i.e. three piece kit) it is essential to replace that as well.
Why does my car rev when I press the clutch pedal?
I have a 1997 fiesta flight engine size 1299.Lately when I press the clutch ( changing gear, completely stopping) the car revs loudly and jerks forward.It doesn%26#039;t happen all the time but obviously there is something wrong.|||Hi, MSC is on the right track. The accelerator linkage could be hanging up, some oil or grease might do some good. The engine goes to idle when you disengage the transmission. If the idle is up the engine will rev. The Idle Air Controller (IAC) could be faulty, you can scan the computer and find out. The first thing to check are the vacuum lines, they will make the engine idle up. Check clutch freeplay and if it%26#039;s less than 1%26quot;, adjust it. If the clutch is a cable, oil or grease where you can, make sure it moves smoothly. If either cable isn%26#039;t smooth, replace them. Good Luck, Geo|||sounds like you need a new clutch....almost sure of it.|||you could have an emissions problem and when you relieve the load on the engine the emissions system is trying to clean the exhaust and by doing so it causing the engine to rev up. The other thing is check you clutch cable and see if it is interfering with and electronics or wires as well as the throttle cable.
Could changing a new clutch cause an oil leak via drive shaft oil seal?
I have an oil leak since my new clutch was installed yesterday (a previous newly installed clutch was done incorrectly and so a new one had to be oput in).
Only thing is a had a drive shaft oil seal replaced at another garage 2 weeks ago too 9they said that the last clutch installation caused the leak). Which is likely to be the problem:
a: the repair from 2 weeks ago has caused the leak
b: yesterday%26#039;s clutch installation caused the leak|||Always enter the year make and model of the car. Front wheel drive cars have a different clutch and transmission seal arrangement than rear wheel drive cars. Some people call front axles drive-shafts.
A transmission tail-shaft seal on a rear wheel driven car is inexpensive and easy to replace. Occasionally a leaking rear seal has a bad tail-shaft bushing or bearing causing the seal to leak. All seals are not created equal either.
In either case you can%26#039;t positively say that the seal was or was not leaking before or after the first clutch replacement.|||Your confusing me!!
How can the clutch job yesterday cause a leak 2 weeks ago???
I hope you%26#039;re not paying for a faulty job to be done twice?
Are you getting the work done by someone you trust with a good reputation, or just as cheaply as possible?
Possible causes.
Anytime the shaft has come out %26amp; gone back in could have caused the leak by nicking the sealing surface.
The shaft could be worn so the new seal isn%26#039;t sealing properly.
The seal was just worn out, they go hard over time and don%26#039;t seal properly.|||changing the clutch would,nt cause a oil leak. probably the rear main seal was leaking in the first place and that,s what ruined the clutch. check the rear main seal. if it,s leaking then you will be changing the clutch before too long again.
Only thing is a had a drive shaft oil seal replaced at another garage 2 weeks ago too 9they said that the last clutch installation caused the leak). Which is likely to be the problem:
a: the repair from 2 weeks ago has caused the leak
b: yesterday%26#039;s clutch installation caused the leak|||Always enter the year make and model of the car. Front wheel drive cars have a different clutch and transmission seal arrangement than rear wheel drive cars. Some people call front axles drive-shafts.
A transmission tail-shaft seal on a rear wheel driven car is inexpensive and easy to replace. Occasionally a leaking rear seal has a bad tail-shaft bushing or bearing causing the seal to leak. All seals are not created equal either.
In either case you can%26#039;t positively say that the seal was or was not leaking before or after the first clutch replacement.|||Your confusing me!!
How can the clutch job yesterday cause a leak 2 weeks ago???
I hope you%26#039;re not paying for a faulty job to be done twice?
Are you getting the work done by someone you trust with a good reputation, or just as cheaply as possible?
Possible causes.
Anytime the shaft has come out %26amp; gone back in could have caused the leak by nicking the sealing surface.
The shaft could be worn so the new seal isn%26#039;t sealing properly.
The seal was just worn out, they go hard over time and don%26#039;t seal properly.|||changing the clutch would,nt cause a oil leak. probably the rear main seal was leaking in the first place and that,s what ruined the clutch. check the rear main seal. if it,s leaking then you will be changing the clutch before too long again.
Changing the clutch bite point?
I have a 2004 seat Ibiza S 1.4, the clutch bite point is very high. How can I adjust it to make it lower?|||If you have a hydraulic slave cylinder, there probably is no adjustment and the clutch is worn out and needs replacement.
Where can I find step by step instructions on the web to change clutch on a 98 Mazda B2500?
Its the extra-cab, 2 wheel drive.|||try library.org...or somewhere in that nature..its like checking out a book at the library on ur truck.
Changing the clutch release bearing on a peugeot 306.?
1.4 Alpine M Reg 1994:
Can anybody out there provide a detailed instruction on how to change the clutch release bearing and what tools are needed. would be much appreciated. thank you.|||Wow, gsac, you are full of questions today. But since you like my answers...here goes. Step by step. Changing a clutch on a 306, or any of the TU family of Peugeot engines (205, 106, 306) with an MA 5 or MA 4 gearbox.
NEED TOOLS: socket wrenches, torque wrenches, hex allen/imbus of 8mm. maybe even screwdrivers and hammers, heck...everything a mechanic has!
From off the top of my head...
1. Remove battery .
2. Jack up the front end of car one foot off the ground
3. Drain gearbox oil, find the drain plug (8mm square bar needed).
4. Disconnect the gear selector rods at rear of gearbox. (two)
5. Disconnect anything else that seems to be in the way of reaching the starter motor.
6. Remove starter motor, and of course the red battery cable.
7. Remove black battery ground wire.
8. Remove your hat and swear a lot.
9. disconnect speedometer cable from rear of gearbox.
10. disconnect clutch cable from top of gearbox.
11. Support the entire gearbox from below with a jack on 4 wheels. Then remove any connection between gearbox and left-hand motor mount.
12. Unbolt about 12 bolts that join the gearbox to the engine. Some of them are hard to see and reach with tools and fingers. Lie on your back to see all screws.
13. I think I remember unbolting the exhaust pipe under the engine, but forget why at the moment.
14. separate the gearbox from the engine. It does not need to be forced. Check for a bolt you overlooked.
15. Swear again, cause a difficult thing is about to happen...
16. Drop the gearbox down below the car. there is only two millimeters to spare in any direction. AAAaaarrrrrrgggg!!
17. Notice the position of the clutch spring. Remove the 6 bolts progressively, little by little.
18. Remove the clutch spring (also called pressure plate).
19. Remove the clutch disc. (also called driven plate)
20. Remove the throw-out bearing (release / thrust bearing) from the gearbox side, on the shaft.
21. Take these 3 pieces to the autoparts store and buy the exact size. Give the old pieces to save yourself a %26quot;core charge%26quot; for the used metal.
22. Put it back together....use a proper size rod to temporarily, perfectly center the plate behind the spring. TORQUE ALL BOLTS to specs.
23. Put the release bearing on the gearbox shaft. HOLD it firmly in place with some rubber bands. It must not slide out of place for the next steps. Ribber bands can later break away, we don%26#039;t care. (TAKE A MOMENT to compare the spinning effort of the old bearing compared to the new one. Feel the diff?)
24. UPwards goes the gearbox. Have a friend help you, it%26#039;s heavy mate! Position it perfectly. Push the shaft into the engine hole. (I don%26#039;t remember a gasket at all)
25. Bolt up all those gearbox bolts, to the proper torque!. I make it sound easy don%26#039;t I?
26. Put all that little stuff back on....I%26#039;m getting tired now.
27. New gear oil back in the fill hole (directly behind left tyre). Replace drain plug. Fill until it runs out the edge. Add a new copper ring gasket.
28. hook up battery, gear linkage,speedo cable....
29. drink a beer
30. don%26#039;t phone me.....
31. maybe I forgot some little things..have an experienced friend do this with you. I made it sound easy. First time is very hard. Fourth time is easy.|||Did you begin this work yourself? I am curious.
|||i hate to say this, but if you have to ask, then forget it.
its a gearbox out... and it takes us in a garage with ALL the kit a few hours, and we struggle at times... its a rather fiddly job, with lots of associated components to be removed... and rebuilt.
average price 200 quid PLUS the clutch... (the gearbox is off, so change the whole thing... a pug clutch is about 120 quid...
Can anybody out there provide a detailed instruction on how to change the clutch release bearing and what tools are needed. would be much appreciated. thank you.|||Wow, gsac, you are full of questions today. But since you like my answers...here goes. Step by step. Changing a clutch on a 306, or any of the TU family of Peugeot engines (205, 106, 306) with an MA 5 or MA 4 gearbox.
NEED TOOLS: socket wrenches, torque wrenches, hex allen/imbus of 8mm. maybe even screwdrivers and hammers, heck...everything a mechanic has!
From off the top of my head...
1. Remove battery .
2. Jack up the front end of car one foot off the ground
3. Drain gearbox oil, find the drain plug (8mm square bar needed).
4. Disconnect the gear selector rods at rear of gearbox. (two)
5. Disconnect anything else that seems to be in the way of reaching the starter motor.
6. Remove starter motor, and of course the red battery cable.
7. Remove black battery ground wire.
8. Remove your hat and swear a lot.
9. disconnect speedometer cable from rear of gearbox.
10. disconnect clutch cable from top of gearbox.
11. Support the entire gearbox from below with a jack on 4 wheels. Then remove any connection between gearbox and left-hand motor mount.
12. Unbolt about 12 bolts that join the gearbox to the engine. Some of them are hard to see and reach with tools and fingers. Lie on your back to see all screws.
13. I think I remember unbolting the exhaust pipe under the engine, but forget why at the moment.
14. separate the gearbox from the engine. It does not need to be forced. Check for a bolt you overlooked.
15. Swear again, cause a difficult thing is about to happen...
16. Drop the gearbox down below the car. there is only two millimeters to spare in any direction. AAAaaarrrrrrgggg!!
17. Notice the position of the clutch spring. Remove the 6 bolts progressively, little by little.
18. Remove the clutch spring (also called pressure plate).
19. Remove the clutch disc. (also called driven plate)
20. Remove the throw-out bearing (release / thrust bearing) from the gearbox side, on the shaft.
21. Take these 3 pieces to the autoparts store and buy the exact size. Give the old pieces to save yourself a %26quot;core charge%26quot; for the used metal.
22. Put it back together....use a proper size rod to temporarily, perfectly center the plate behind the spring. TORQUE ALL BOLTS to specs.
23. Put the release bearing on the gearbox shaft. HOLD it firmly in place with some rubber bands. It must not slide out of place for the next steps. Ribber bands can later break away, we don%26#039;t care. (TAKE A MOMENT to compare the spinning effort of the old bearing compared to the new one. Feel the diff?)
24. UPwards goes the gearbox. Have a friend help you, it%26#039;s heavy mate! Position it perfectly. Push the shaft into the engine hole. (I don%26#039;t remember a gasket at all)
25. Bolt up all those gearbox bolts, to the proper torque!. I make it sound easy don%26#039;t I?
26. Put all that little stuff back on....I%26#039;m getting tired now.
27. New gear oil back in the fill hole (directly behind left tyre). Replace drain plug. Fill until it runs out the edge. Add a new copper ring gasket.
28. hook up battery, gear linkage,speedo cable....
29. drink a beer
30. don%26#039;t phone me.....
31. maybe I forgot some little things..have an experienced friend do this with you. I made it sound easy. First time is very hard. Fourth time is easy.|||Did you begin this work yourself? I am curious.
Report Abuse
|||i hate to say this, but if you have to ask, then forget it.
its a gearbox out... and it takes us in a garage with ALL the kit a few hours, and we struggle at times... its a rather fiddly job, with lots of associated components to be removed... and rebuilt.
average price 200 quid PLUS the clutch... (the gearbox is off, so change the whole thing... a pug clutch is about 120 quid...
Where can i find instructions or diagrams for changing the clutch in 1984 toyota tercel online at no charge?
Go to an auto parts store and buy a Chilton%26#039;s manual for it. If you like working on the car yourself, it will be the best investment you ever make.
What are the details of changing the complete clutch on a 92 GMC Sonoma?
The engine is a 2.8 Liter V6 with a 5 speed stick shift on the floor.|||its actually not a hard vehicle to do. but the flywheel needs to be surfaced, you need to replace, the pressure plate,throw out bearing and the pilot bushing. also would be a good time to change the trans fluid as well as check the u joints and any seals replaced. also you would want to check the rear main seal on the engine and remember to torque the flywheeel correctly as you could damage the crankshaft flange and then the rear main would be leaking. you have to be able to get the vehicle high enough to work underneath it. if you dont have the proper tools i wouldnt suggest it|||you need a screwdriver|||take old clutch out and stick in new cluch... if you can%26#039;t do that then don%26#039;t **** with it!!!|||just like do it to a 350 v8|||Buy a repair manual for your vehicle. Much easier than explaining it step by step...whew. Good luck.
Does changing a clutch plate on a ford mondeo, involve removing the engine and gear box?
because the clutch mounts to the back of the engine between the engine and the transmission there%26#039;s no other way,to remove them,and that%26#039;s for any car made the transmission has to come out on anything to change a clutch,good luck.
WHERE CAN I FIND A STEP BY STEP GUID TO CHANGING THE CLUTCH ON MY 2006 R1?
my clutch is ajusted to the limit and i need to changwe the clutch. does anyone know where i can get a step by step on how to do so or maybe even a video. i would like to change the whole thing (plates, springs.......)|||buy the damb shop manual dummy. At the dealership [DUH}|||I got a complete clutch here for that bike. I can tell you how to pull it off.
800-334-4045|||http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.ht鈥?/a>
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/myyama鈥?/a>
http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
800-334-4045|||http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.ht鈥?/a>
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/myyama鈥?/a>
http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
Whats involved in changing the clutch in a 1954 john deere 60 standard?
you have to split the tractor in half at transmission not real hard just heavy might be able to find a repair manual
type into search box
repair manual 1954 john deere 60 standard PDF
or type how to repalce clutch 1954 john deere 60
could look into forums like 1954 john deere 60 forum or john deere 60 forums might get you with other who have them
type into search box
repair manual 1954 john deere 60 standard PDF
or type how to repalce clutch 1954 john deere 60
could look into forums like 1954 john deere 60 forum or john deere 60 forums might get you with other who have them
Does one press the clutch other then changing gears?
i learning to drive and would like to ask i know that you have to pressing down the clutch when changing gears .
But does one have to press down the clutch when taking corners or at other times?
Thanks|||when your taking a corner, just touch the brake to slow down, then after you have made the corner, then give it gas. the only time you hit the clutch is when your coming to a complete stop and for changing gears.|||well.. as you said .. when you change gears. and of course when you start the car!|||You would press down the clutch and down shift BEFORE the turn; then again to up shift after you%26#039;re thru the turn. It%26#039;s not good to press down on the clutch, except when changing.|||No.
You will hear various things about when to change gears. The only time to change gears is when you need to. Meaning engine RPM%26#039;s are getting to low or too high.
So if you slow down too much to get around a corner, then yes, you need to press on the clutch to change the gears.
I personally like to take my foot off the gas and press on the clutch to minimize shock to the transmission when I go over railroad tracks at speed.|||you should not have to press the clutch when taking corners unless you slow down when doing so.also you need to put in when stoping %26amp; starting and when down shifting hope this help%26#039;s|||You only have to press the clutch pedal when changing up or down gearbox . If you ever have to stop the car quickly , ie an emergency , depress clutch at same time as putting on the brakes .DJC.
But does one have to press down the clutch when taking corners or at other times?
Thanks|||when your taking a corner, just touch the brake to slow down, then after you have made the corner, then give it gas. the only time you hit the clutch is when your coming to a complete stop and for changing gears.|||well.. as you said .. when you change gears. and of course when you start the car!|||You would press down the clutch and down shift BEFORE the turn; then again to up shift after you%26#039;re thru the turn. It%26#039;s not good to press down on the clutch, except when changing.|||No.
You will hear various things about when to change gears. The only time to change gears is when you need to. Meaning engine RPM%26#039;s are getting to low or too high.
So if you slow down too much to get around a corner, then yes, you need to press on the clutch to change the gears.
I personally like to take my foot off the gas and press on the clutch to minimize shock to the transmission when I go over railroad tracks at speed.|||you should not have to press the clutch when taking corners unless you slow down when doing so.also you need to put in when stoping %26amp; starting and when down shifting hope this help%26#039;s|||You only have to press the clutch pedal when changing up or down gearbox . If you ever have to stop the car quickly , ie an emergency , depress clutch at same time as putting on the brakes .DJC.
I have alto vx1.1 maruti car since few days on first start clutch open condition there comes a noise?
after engaging gear noise goes off.i changed clutch disc and bearings ,but noise still the same .please advise me|||I support AUM on this... it definitely depends on the Driver...
even i driver multiple cars n it so happens that my frnds tell me that the gears r hard n stuff... but i drive it they r shocked... take it easy... mayb ur jus tensed whn the cars starts movin... relax n take ur car gently.. once u gain confidence then u%26#039;ll drive much beta n all those noises will disappear..
All the Best|||It shows how good you drive the car. The noise you say must be b%26#039;coz you are trying to change gear with half clutch. Else mail me the exact situation and I might help you. Like.
Is the sound comes only in reverse gear, All gears,
Engine is hoot, you R hot,....|||change the gear with full clutch paddle press .
also release the clutch properly
even i driver multiple cars n it so happens that my frnds tell me that the gears r hard n stuff... but i drive it they r shocked... take it easy... mayb ur jus tensed whn the cars starts movin... relax n take ur car gently.. once u gain confidence then u%26#039;ll drive much beta n all those noises will disappear..
All the Best|||It shows how good you drive the car. The noise you say must be b%26#039;coz you are trying to change gear with half clutch. Else mail me the exact situation and I might help you. Like.
Is the sound comes only in reverse gear, All gears,
Engine is hoot, you R hot,....|||change the gear with full clutch paddle press .
also release the clutch properly
I have alto vx1.1 maruti car since few days on first start clutch open condition there comes a noise?
after engaging gear noise goes off.i changed clutch disc and bearings ,but noise still the same .please advise me|||I support AUM on this... it definitely depends on the Driver...
even i driver multiple cars n it so happens that my frnds tell me that the gears r hard n stuff... but i drive it they r shocked... take it easy... mayb ur jus tensed whn the cars starts movin... relax n take ur car gently.. once u gain confidence then u%26#039;ll drive much beta n all those noises will disappear..
All the Best|||It shows how good you drive the car. The noise you say must be b%26#039;coz you are trying to change gear with half clutch. Else mail me the exact situation and I might help you. Like.
Is the sound comes only in reverse gear, All gears,
Engine is hoot, you R hot,....|||change the gear with full clutch paddle press .
also release the clutch properly
even i driver multiple cars n it so happens that my frnds tell me that the gears r hard n stuff... but i drive it they r shocked... take it easy... mayb ur jus tensed whn the cars starts movin... relax n take ur car gently.. once u gain confidence then u%26#039;ll drive much beta n all those noises will disappear..
All the Best|||It shows how good you drive the car. The noise you say must be b%26#039;coz you are trying to change gear with half clutch. Else mail me the exact situation and I might help you. Like.
Is the sound comes only in reverse gear, All gears,
Engine is hoot, you R hot,....|||change the gear with full clutch paddle press .
also release the clutch properly
What is the procedure for changing the clutch in a1991 gmc sonoma 4 cylinder?
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>|||type in how to replace clutch gmc should find it and buying a repair manual would help in many ways and for years to come
When to change cam belt and clutch disk on honda accord 1.8 2000 model?
It鈥檚 done 59k miles and I%26#039;m confused bcz my local garage told that it will go upto 70k. The owner鈥檚 manual says it should be changed at 60k. Which one is correct? How much it will cost? The gear is so hard in my car, is this related to belt? When do we change clutch disk? Please help me and advice about the cost in Manchester for these jobs.|||70k
Changing clutch plate on vectra?
does the gearbox need to be out to do this job or is it like old cavalier can it be done with box in situe|||g/box has to come off, sorry|||Don%26#039;t know that car, but if it%26#039;s rear wheel drive, the tranny has to be removed. Front wheel drive cars don%26#039;t seem to all be the same as-far-as that question goes.|||gearbox has to removed from engine also you will have to drop the subframe slightly as the gearbox will not come past the inner flitch also change the slave cylinder as it is bolted in the bell houseing and usually when you remove the gearbox it damages the cylinder seals and leaks out fluid and then the box will have too come back out again!!
Bike does not accelerate like it should? even the sound is different. recently changed clutch plates. ?
my clutch plates were damaged after like 1300 kms in operation. now i changed the plates the bike does not accelerate like it should. what might be the problem. my bike sounds different too. in neutral, it sounds different when the clutch is pressed and different when it released. what might be the problem???|||if you didnt keep track of the stack sequence you could have them stacked wrong and if its a wet clutch did you soak them before installation? if not you will get some pretty wild performance . does the engine wind up and the bike not respond if so the clutch is slipping check all adjustments , its not hard to over tighten the cable, also causing major problems|||id start by checking the order you put the plates and friction pads in
How long should a factory fitted clutch last in my Civic Type-R?
My clutch has gone after only 14,500 miles. The garage are trying to tell me it is down to driving style!! I%26#039;m 39 and only ever needed to change clutches on 2 cars before now - both had done approx. 80,000 miles.|||Maybe your son has been borrowing then?|||hi. It is prob to do with your driving all right. Do you double clutch to keep the revs up to keep the vtech power on? thats what wrecked mine...|||You should have your fly wheel check as well. If it%26#039;s not smooth, it will wear out your clutch plate faster.|||its down to how you are driving the car
perhaps next time you should consider a performance clutch
perhaps next time you should consider a performance clutch
Changing a clutch on a 250 class motorcross bike?
if it matters, the bike is a %26#039;98 CR 250. The original clutch is in the bike and has never been inspected; I ride trails and dunes and am one of those guys who use the clutch only for 1st gear. The symptom I am seeing is just the clutch slipping, other than that no problems with the bike. I am wondering what parts I need to change this clutch. I have changed clutches in a streetbike w/ a manual before w/ no problems. I would like to go to a parts counter and order what is commonly needed to change it; should I buy any bearings, metal clutch plates, clutch basket or am I probably ok w/ just the friction plates? any special tools needed? manual? I have sockets, common sense, torque wrench and other common tools.|||I would buy a full clutch kit. Comes with the pads and metal rings. Make sure you soak them in oil for 30minutes before putting them in. Also you may have to buy a new clutch basket. It is best to pull the basket out first and rub you fingers in the area where the plates ride. If there are any grooves you might be able to file them down or you%26#039;ll have to buy a new basket. If you don%26#039;t you will have gears sticking on you down the line. For the clutch kit I use Dirt Diggers and they have not given me any problems.
How to change fried clutch on 2006 Gixxer?
It got fried by doing sliping clutch, most of the times wrong, is it easy to change? I heard you only need to change clutch plate...btw how much will it cost?|||dont even think about tearin into this area without having a service manual, and thoroughly reading about clutch tear down and reassembly first. if u dont, expect to pay a big chunk of change at the dealer to fix the original problem + fixing what u screwed up. would be a good idea to at least rent a bike lift. would make the job alot easier. u%26#039;ll need to do an entire clutch tear down. if ya had a shop manual, u would have known this already. prices will differ. heavy duty, or standard duty.
the shop will soak u xxx bucks per hour labor + parts. just as an example, at the harley shop close by, shop time is $60 an hour with a 30 minute minumum. it might take them 3 hours to tear it down and put it back together, so that would be roughly, $180 just for shop time. now add the price of the clutch assembly, then tax on top of that. i see a big chunk of coin. do it halfassed, expect halfassed results. and if the clutch gives out when ur far from home cause ya didnt do it right, there%26#039;s more ching about to bleed....for a tow truck.|||Gixxer? do you mean GSX-R?
dont just replace one plate, replace all of the drive and friction plates as a whole. this is easily done by yourself, and it might cost about 200 buck, depending on what brand of clutch you intend to use.
if you take it to a dealership plan on paying twice as much......
buy a heavy duty clutch, not the stock kind. they last longer....|||$200.00 if you know how.
$500.00 from the dealer. Get the after market kind that last longer.|||You wore out a clutch in one year?
squid.|||fried clutch sure smells like squid
100 dollars and some know how but its obvious you dont have that
the shop will soak u xxx bucks per hour labor + parts. just as an example, at the harley shop close by, shop time is $60 an hour with a 30 minute minumum. it might take them 3 hours to tear it down and put it back together, so that would be roughly, $180 just for shop time. now add the price of the clutch assembly, then tax on top of that. i see a big chunk of coin. do it halfassed, expect halfassed results. and if the clutch gives out when ur far from home cause ya didnt do it right, there%26#039;s more ching about to bleed....for a tow truck.|||Gixxer? do you mean GSX-R?
dont just replace one plate, replace all of the drive and friction plates as a whole. this is easily done by yourself, and it might cost about 200 buck, depending on what brand of clutch you intend to use.
if you take it to a dealership plan on paying twice as much......
buy a heavy duty clutch, not the stock kind. they last longer....|||$200.00 if you know how.
$500.00 from the dealer. Get the after market kind that last longer.|||You wore out a clutch in one year?
squid.|||fried clutch sure smells like squid
100 dollars and some know how but its obvious you dont have that
What are the long term effects for not using the clutch when changing gears? (on a dirt bike)?
Is it bad for the engine or gear box or some part of the bike in the long run if you keep on not using the clutch while changing gears?
Any effects in the short term?|||I raced motocross for years and never used a clutch to up shift after the bike was moving.I did use it for down shifting. I never had any trouble with the gear box|||It will mash up your Gear Wheels, any bearings, your chains and sporkets. They are all replaceable.|||What Jimi said|||You wouldn%26#039;t do it on a car, and that%26#039;s because of what%26#039;s already mentioned. The clutch is used to change gear to gear without grinding, meaning longer life. It%26#039;d be stupid and lazy not to use your clutch, on anything. And it will cost you money.|||i think actual race motor cross bikes were inteded to be used clutch less as every second they are off the power counts but given that you probably wont be wanting to rebuild your engine every other week i would stick with useing the clutch other wise you will be literally changing gears,
with a new one|||long term effects...the money you are going to be spending to FIX the clutch and gearbox when you continually ruin it in the SHORT term...you can blow the clutch any time doing that.
There is a REASON for the clutch on the bike...and if you don%26#039;t know what it is for, you shouldn%26#039;t be riding it!|||I believe that when properly timed (by matching revs) power shifting (i.e. clutch-less shifting) does not necessarily damage a bike. I started doing it as a young kid on my Yamaha DT50, then on my Kawasaki 100. I had the 1st bike for a year and the 2nd for 3 years and I never had a problem out of either one.
And besides, I can be fun and it feels satisfying when you pull it off smoothly.|||there arent any. the clutch does not serv as any a type of mechanical sympathy when changing gear on a bike due to the design of the gears and the way they engage. you will get exactly the same wear on the gears and bearings using and not using the clutch. it is only gearboxes with synchro engagement that require a clutch such as car gearboxes, it is the synchros that grind when you dont use a clutch in a car dirt bikes dont have them and have no need for them.|||yeah i wouldn%26#039;t recommend it. its grinding parts together but you can always replace them. just depends on how much money you are willing to spend on your dirtbike in the long run.|||Call your dealer and order some new shift forks.|||if you know what you are doing nothing will happen, except you won%26#039;t ever have to replace the clutch.|||on the majority of mototrbikes you only need to use the clutch when you pull away or wanna stop. all dirt bikes especially have a dog engagement gearbox which means there are no synchros and are designed to change gear without the use of a clutch, the only other reason for having a clutch on a dirt bike is for stunts so you can lift the revs in a higher gear than 1st pop the clutch and wheelie or dip the clutch on the brow of a hill then wack the throttle back while letting the clutch out to spin the back tire so it beds into the mud givin much better traction as you pass over the hill etc so if you just riding normally you dont need to use the clutch once your moving i raced motocross for 4 years and i hardly ever used the clutch and now im a motorcycle mechanic|||Replacing the tranny.
Any effects in the short term?|||I raced motocross for years and never used a clutch to up shift after the bike was moving.I did use it for down shifting. I never had any trouble with the gear box|||It will mash up your Gear Wheels, any bearings, your chains and sporkets. They are all replaceable.|||What Jimi said|||You wouldn%26#039;t do it on a car, and that%26#039;s because of what%26#039;s already mentioned. The clutch is used to change gear to gear without grinding, meaning longer life. It%26#039;d be stupid and lazy not to use your clutch, on anything. And it will cost you money.|||i think actual race motor cross bikes were inteded to be used clutch less as every second they are off the power counts but given that you probably wont be wanting to rebuild your engine every other week i would stick with useing the clutch other wise you will be literally changing gears,
with a new one|||long term effects...the money you are going to be spending to FIX the clutch and gearbox when you continually ruin it in the SHORT term...you can blow the clutch any time doing that.
There is a REASON for the clutch on the bike...and if you don%26#039;t know what it is for, you shouldn%26#039;t be riding it!|||I believe that when properly timed (by matching revs) power shifting (i.e. clutch-less shifting) does not necessarily damage a bike. I started doing it as a young kid on my Yamaha DT50, then on my Kawasaki 100. I had the 1st bike for a year and the 2nd for 3 years and I never had a problem out of either one.
And besides, I can be fun and it feels satisfying when you pull it off smoothly.|||there arent any. the clutch does not serv as any a type of mechanical sympathy when changing gear on a bike due to the design of the gears and the way they engage. you will get exactly the same wear on the gears and bearings using and not using the clutch. it is only gearboxes with synchro engagement that require a clutch such as car gearboxes, it is the synchros that grind when you dont use a clutch in a car dirt bikes dont have them and have no need for them.|||yeah i wouldn%26#039;t recommend it. its grinding parts together but you can always replace them. just depends on how much money you are willing to spend on your dirtbike in the long run.|||Call your dealer and order some new shift forks.|||if you know what you are doing nothing will happen, except you won%26#039;t ever have to replace the clutch.|||on the majority of mototrbikes you only need to use the clutch when you pull away or wanna stop. all dirt bikes especially have a dog engagement gearbox which means there are no synchros and are designed to change gear without the use of a clutch, the only other reason for having a clutch on a dirt bike is for stunts so you can lift the revs in a higher gear than 1st pop the clutch and wheelie or dip the clutch on the brow of a hill then wack the throttle back while letting the clutch out to spin the back tire so it beds into the mud givin much better traction as you pass over the hill etc so if you just riding normally you dont need to use the clutch once your moving i raced motocross for 4 years and i hardly ever used the clutch and now im a motorcycle mechanic|||Replacing the tranny.
Is it necessary to use the clutch when changing gears on a dirt bike?
I have been riding a lot and sometimes I don%26#039;t have a lot of time to pull in the clutch or other circumstances. Is it safe for the engine? Will it cause any harm to the dirt bike?|||all the mx bikes shift really smooth and yes they will shift without the clutch but come on too busy. Learn to ride and use the clutch. You need to keep practicing and learning. The clutch is your friend and learn to keep a finger on all the time as well as the front brake. Don%26#039;t ride with it pulled in but a finger ready to use them.|||yes, you must squeeze clutch to shift, fool. Otherwise you burn up transmission, fool. It do many harms to motor if you no do. What, you think you too important, to busy to clutch the clutch. I never to busy to clutch the clutch...and I race to best.|||i never use my clutch when changing gears and i havent had any problems with my tranny.|||ya you do need to pull in the clutch not all the way but just a lil bit it can cause big problems.|||if you do it every once in a while than its not going to do anything to the bike. if you make a habit of it then it messes up the transmition quit a bit.|||The basic rule of thumb is to always (if you can help it) use the clutch to up-shift. When you down shift you don%26#039;t want to use the clutch because when you pull it in and you are trying to slow down for a corner you want the engine to help you slow down. When you pull in the clutch it disengages the engine so you wont slow down as fast.
It will NOT damage your engine.
Also when using your clutch only use 1 or 2 fingers on it at a time, so that you can still hold onto your bike whale you are riding, and so you wont slow down because you can hold on from using all 4 fingers.
when doing a motocross start use at least 2 but no more than 3 fingers on the clutch. When going down the strait try to use the clutch at least a little bit when shifting UP through the gears. Once you get on the breaks DON%26#039;T pull it in to DOWN shift. this tecknique will help you in the corners, and if you master it people wont be able to keep up with u in the corners. And there are more corners on a moto-x track than anything else.
Hope this helps.
It will NOT damage your engine.
Also when using your clutch only use 1 or 2 fingers on it at a time, so that you can still hold onto your bike whale you are riding, and so you wont slow down because you can hold on from using all 4 fingers.
when doing a motocross start use at least 2 but no more than 3 fingers on the clutch. When going down the strait try to use the clutch at least a little bit when shifting UP through the gears. Once you get on the breaks DON%26#039;T pull it in to DOWN shift. this tecknique will help you in the corners, and if you master it people wont be able to keep up with u in the corners. And there are more corners on a moto-x track than anything else.
Hope this helps.
Changing clutch. for a honda accord. putting a aftermarket clutch. the rpm just couldn't go higher than 4000?
what seem to be the problem. |||if you change the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing then it should be ok. those after market clutches are ok, i,ve used many of them. what your problem is the motor needs tuned up.|||try adjusting the clutch. maybe the throw out bearing is holding pressure on the clutch when the pedal is out causing it not to grip against the flywheel like it should.
|||you may need to hopp up you motor or change you shifting gear
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|||you may need to hopp up you motor or change you shifting gear
Changing the clutch on my 1996 Peugeot 306?
I%26#039;m going to change the clutch on my 1996 peugeot 306 1.9tdi and I%26#039;ve been told that I need a %26#039;key%26#039; (some sort of tool) to do this. I%26#039;ve also been told that the %26#039;key%26#039; can%26#039;t be bought by the general public. Am I being wound up by my mate? if not where can I get hold of this %26#039;key%26#039; PLEASE HELP!|||He probably has his wires crossed you will need a clutch alignment tool and a good selection of hex head bits for undoing various bolts,and possibly a stud extractor for removing the gearbox to body mount,but other than that can%26#039;t think of anything else that you would need.|||You only need a clutch alignment tool, draper are doing a good one at the moment for a fiver.|||He probably means the tool which holds the flywheel still while you work in the clutch. Most good garage-biased tool places will sell you one.|||You don%26#039;t need a key, You might need a clutch aligning tool which especially with Peugeot comes with the new clutch.|||My boyfriend is on this forum and says its great. They will answer any question you want, and its free to register.
www.pug306.net|||i think this may be a end up, if you need a tool for your car they wont make it available but not available to those who need it! catch my drift, ring a peogeut specialist garage and ask xxx
www.pug306.net|||i think this may be a end up, if you need a tool for your car they wont make it available but not available to those who need it! catch my drift, ring a peogeut specialist garage and ask xxx
Changing a clutch on a volkswagen kombi?
i might try to change the clutch on my volkswagen kombi van 1994. any good suggestions?|||It is best to have 2 jacks, one to support the engine, and one for the transaxle.
They sell a cheap scissors tranny jack at Harbor Freight for under $50.
Change the throwout bearing as well, and grease the rod it so it does not bind.
Sort of a common problem.
Buy one of those plastic clutch position jigs as well. Very handy, and saves a lot of time when you are trying to put it bad together and it does not line up. The jig helps put the friction disk in the right alignment as the pressure plate is bolted down.
Put plastic bags over the CV joints when they are unbolted, to keep dir out.
They sell a cheap scissors tranny jack at Harbor Freight for under $50.
Change the throwout bearing as well, and grease the rod it so it does not bind.
Sort of a common problem.
Buy one of those plastic clutch position jigs as well. Very handy, and saves a lot of time when you are trying to put it bad together and it does not line up. The jig helps put the friction disk in the right alignment as the pressure plate is bolted down.
Put plastic bags over the CV joints when they are unbolted, to keep dir out.
How do you change the clutch on a yamaha blaster yfs200?
My clutch recently burnt out on me on my 1998 yamaha blaster yfs200. I have seen a few forum%26#039;s on changing clutches, but I have never fully understood them! Money is short at hand, so taking it to the dealer is out of the question. Please offer some information on this or atleast direct me to a clear, easy to understand forum. Thanks|||I%26#039;ve tried to get as detailed as possible using a little amount of space as possible so here goes:
1.Remove the right side foot rest, kick crank, crankcase cover, gaskets and dowel pins.
2. Remove:
bolts
clutch springs
pressure plates
friction plates
clutch plates
nut (clutch boss) then lock washer
clutch boss
spacer
clutch housing
spacer
spring washer (conical) pay attn. to how it is installed.
ball
push rod.
This is all in order of the parts will disassemble.
the parts will reassemble in the smae order, make sure to use a lithium soap based grease. Only thing you need to watch out for is ensuring the conical spring washer is installed the right way. It should go wothout saying to always use a new gasket for the crankcase cover as well. Good luck!|||if you plan on riding it wise to get a book it will show you just what you need..... ok first release cable pressure ...if you dont know where the clutch it follow the cable remove bolts.... now remove clutch plate its spring loaded so and you might have to give it a good wack if you dont have air tools but in side theres clutch disks and pressure plates must remember which comes off first not really hard only a hand full of bolts should have it off in 10 15 minutes|||Purchase a manual.You%26#039;ll need it for other repairs and maintenance anyways.You%26#039;ll thank me later.
The local dealership may copy the pages you need out of service manual as well.
It wont hurt to ask.|||make sure you soak the new clutch plates
in oil for about an hour before you install them.
1.Remove the right side foot rest, kick crank, crankcase cover, gaskets and dowel pins.
2. Remove:
bolts
clutch springs
pressure plates
friction plates
clutch plates
nut (clutch boss) then lock washer
clutch boss
spacer
clutch housing
spacer
spring washer (conical) pay attn. to how it is installed.
ball
push rod.
This is all in order of the parts will disassemble.
the parts will reassemble in the smae order, make sure to use a lithium soap based grease. Only thing you need to watch out for is ensuring the conical spring washer is installed the right way. It should go wothout saying to always use a new gasket for the crankcase cover as well. Good luck!|||if you plan on riding it wise to get a book it will show you just what you need..... ok first release cable pressure ...if you dont know where the clutch it follow the cable remove bolts.... now remove clutch plate its spring loaded so and you might have to give it a good wack if you dont have air tools but in side theres clutch disks and pressure plates must remember which comes off first not really hard only a hand full of bolts should have it off in 10 15 minutes|||Purchase a manual.You%26#039;ll need it for other repairs and maintenance anyways.You%26#039;ll thank me later.
The local dealership may copy the pages you need out of service manual as well.
It wont hurt to ask.|||make sure you soak the new clutch plates
in oil for about an hour before you install them.
Changing a clutch on a vauxhall corsa?
I need to change the clutch in my wifes vauxhall corsa it is a 51 plate ( uk registered ) 1200 cc 4 cylinder petrol version and is hydraulicly operated, is there anything special i need to know and are they easy to replace ?
Any tips would be greatly appreciated.|||There`s nothing special about it,you just have to remove the slave cylinder,(if it`s external),or clamp the flexy.and disconnect the pipe if the slave cylinder is internal and then bleed the hydraulics once the job is done.|||Best thing to do is get a manual.
To change the clutch you need to slide the gearbox to get to the clutch.
Not a beginners thing.|||If your a good mechanic it%26#039;s easy.
If your on yahoo answers asking how it%26#039;s done then best of luck mate.
Any tips would be greatly appreciated.|||There`s nothing special about it,you just have to remove the slave cylinder,(if it`s external),or clamp the flexy.and disconnect the pipe if the slave cylinder is internal and then bleed the hydraulics once the job is done.|||Best thing to do is get a manual.
To change the clutch you need to slide the gearbox to get to the clutch.
Not a beginners thing.|||If your a good mechanic it%26#039;s easy.
If your on yahoo answers asking how it%26#039;s done then best of luck mate.
I have a small oil leak on my saxo after recently changing the clutch, What is causing it?
I had a problem with the clutch and had to get a new one plus clutch arm and sleeve. A few days after I noticed a few small puddles of oil beneath the vehicles engine.
The car is a 1.1l Saxo %26quot;S%26quot; reg, 3 door.|||You probably tore up the oil seal on the end of the crankshaft going into the transmission.
This oil leak will probably saturate the new clutch you put in and ruin it as well.
Expensive lesson.
Do it all over and replace seal and clutch plate as if any oil got on it ( and it did ) then it will fail over time - real fast.|||If you%26#039;re not careful with the clutch alignment during install, it%26#039;ll damage the rear main seal and cause oil leakage right there where the tranny case joins the engine. You%26#039;ll have to split the tranny off and replace that seal, and get it aligned correctly this time.
There%26#039;s usually a tool, a cheap one, that will help with the alignment so you can be sure you%26#039;ve got everything centered correctly. If you%26#039;re doing this job yourself, get hold of that tool before you try again.
If you had it done at a shop, they owe you the job done over, correctly this time.
The car is a 1.1l Saxo %26quot;S%26quot; reg, 3 door.|||You probably tore up the oil seal on the end of the crankshaft going into the transmission.
This oil leak will probably saturate the new clutch you put in and ruin it as well.
Expensive lesson.
Do it all over and replace seal and clutch plate as if any oil got on it ( and it did ) then it will fail over time - real fast.|||If you%26#039;re not careful with the clutch alignment during install, it%26#039;ll damage the rear main seal and cause oil leakage right there where the tranny case joins the engine. You%26#039;ll have to split the tranny off and replace that seal, and get it aligned correctly this time.
There%26#039;s usually a tool, a cheap one, that will help with the alignment so you can be sure you%26#039;ve got everything centered correctly. If you%26#039;re doing this job yourself, get hold of that tool before you try again.
If you had it done at a shop, they owe you the job done over, correctly this time.
Changing clutch master cylinder Renault Master 56 plate?
Hi All, I am looking at changing the clutch master cylinder on my 56 plate Renault Master, due to the usual pedal to the floor situation. Any ideas on the best way to do this job?? Do I need to bleed the system?
Many Thanks|||if you haven%26#039;t tyred yet...bleed it first before you change it...there not a bad job,takes 2 without a preasure bleeder kit.|||bleeding can be a nightmare on these vans ususally best too gravity bleed system at first then crack out the pressure bleeder then youll probbably still need too do the good old fashioned pump the pedal hold it down crack the nipple and shut again many times but the secret is letting the fluid settle between bleeding
Many Thanks|||if you haven%26#039;t tyred yet...bleed it first before you change it...there not a bad job,takes 2 without a preasure bleeder kit.|||bleeding can be a nightmare on these vans ususally best too gravity bleed system at first then crack out the pressure bleeder then youll probbably still need too do the good old fashioned pump the pedal hold it down crack the nipple and shut again many times but the secret is letting the fluid settle between bleeding
How much does volkswagen dealer charge for changing clutch for a volkswagen polo 2001 1.4 match?
how much does volkswagen dealer charge for changing clutch for a volkswagen polo 2001 1.4 match and how much would they charge for the clutch kit? thanks for answers in advance.|||call the dealer and ask them
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