New Clutch - Still Slips!?

Hi,

I've replaced my Mk1 Golf Gti clutch with new QH kit (Disc and plate) but it still slips!



- No oil leaking from flywheel oil seal or gearbox

- Adjusting cable makes zero difference - bite point changes but still slipping



Started in higher gears as normal, now slips in 2nd once warmed up a bit. Changing clutch made no difference :(



I suspect either the flywheel has been skimmed too many times or release pin isn't releasing. 'Box whines a bit and snicks into 2nd gear so maybe other internal probs make it not release properly.



Any ideas appreciated - I should know this and will be better educated when I work it out!



Thanks :)
New Clutch - Still Slips!?
They spray the pressure plates with silicone spray so they don't get surface rust. If you didn't clean it with BraKleen it will slip.

If the disk isn't glazed too bad, you can pull the transaxle, disassemble the clutch and spray the pressure plate and flywheel with BraKleen. Wipe the surfaces once with a CLEAN lintless rag and then spray them again with BraKleen.

Then rough up the friction disk surfaces with some sandpaper. (100-150 grit.)

Look at the pressure plate surface and make sure there aren't any blue %26quot;heat checks%26quot; on it. If there are, it should be replaced. If the flywheel has heat checks it should be resurfaced.

After a clutch starts to slip. it's best to replace the friction disk because if you just rough it up with sandpaper there's a chance that it could chatter. but if you're tight on cash, since it's a new friction disk it would be worth trying to de-glaze it with sandpaper.. When you re-assemble the clutch, keep your fingers off all the friction surfaces. Only handle the disk from the edges and keep your fingers off the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces... I know it sounds rediculous, but the oil from your fingers can actually cause a clutch to chatter.

Take a close look at the transmission shaft splines. Before bolting the pressure plate to the flywheel put the friction disk on the transmission splines and make sure it slides freely back and forth. Put a VERY LIGHT (invisible) coating of grease on the splines, clutch release rod, and on the inside of the pilot bushing/bearing.

After you replace the clutch, there should be some free-play in the pedal. If it engages close to the top, you have a linkage (cable) adjustment problem, or a geometry problem.

If it slips in high gear, stop driving the vehicle immediately or you will risk heating the pressure plate and flywheel.

(FYI - Most machine shops won't turn a flywheel if it's out of spec.)

Good luck!
New Clutch - Still Slips!?
right off the bat it sounds like you may need to get a new flywheel like you said it may have been resurfaced wrongly or one too many times.
First double check you got the right part number.



Second, did you turn/true the flywheel?



Third, did you replace the throwout bearing?



Fourth, how long has it been? Sometimes clutches take a little bit to get seated properly. Do you notice any burnt smell?



These are some steps to start with, and from there you need to go to your flywheel and cable, but it sounds like you've tried a number of different cable adjustments.
check the clutch arm which is located behind a plate at the rear of the gearbox.

also some vw's have a self adjusting clutch cable which cannot be re-adjusted, the only course of action with this is to replace the cable.

finally quite often i have found that the clutch can actually be dudd take it back %26amp; replace it with a luk or borg %26amp; beck type clutch
Hi



Did you clean the preserving oil off the pressure plate?

Did you torque the pressure plate down sufficiently?

Is the clutch cable sticking?

Is the clutch release arm returning all the way back to rest?



Etc...Etc...Etc...Etc...Etc...!!!



Regards



Geordie
Check the end play on the crankshaft. A worn thrust bearing could be causing your release load to change with the crankshaft moving axially. This could simulate pushing the clutch pedal, hence, making it slip.

If you have a potted flywheel or %26quot;stepped flywheel%26quot;, equal amounts of material must removed from the clutch mounting surface and the friction face when resurfaced. If this was machined incorrectly your clutch will slip from low clamp load.
Don't forget the seal on the push rod that operates the clutch. A bad seal will allow 90wt from the trans to leak on the pressure plate and clutch disk. Some mechanics like to replace the bushing behind the seal too.
MK1 had a common problem of leaking on the center of the mainshaft where the diaphram actuation rod comes out. There is a tiny seal there that goes bad. A decent VW shop shuld be able to jump right on it. Special tools required and trany removed from vehicle, yuck.



The leakage is so small it is hard to detect, but your clutch knows!



ASE Cert Auto Tech, 81 Scirocco S, 2.0L 8V, 020 Gearbox, 15.9 1/4 Mile- SCCA Member since 1978